31 Days in New Zealand                                                                                                                                           HOME

If you are lucky enough to have more than one month in New Zealand, then you will have time to see most of our attractions. This itinerary takes you the length of New Zealand from the Cape Reinga in the north all the way down to Queenstown in the south, driving 4700 kilometres in 31 days. From Auckland you first take the circular route north to the Bay of Islands and Waipoua Forest, then drive south via the awesome Coromandel Peninsula to Whakatane, Rotorua and Taupo to take in a little Maori culture and enjoy the volcanic area. You then continue south to Wellington via the wine growing regions around Napier and Martinborough. The South Island begins with some relaxing time in the stunningly beautiful Marlborough Sounds and Abel Tasman National Park in the north of the South Island before heading south via Hanmer Springs, Kaikoura (where you can join a whale or dolphin spotting excursion) and Christchurch. You then follow the Southern Alps all the way to Mt Cook, Wanaka, Queenstown, Paradise (yes, it does exist) and our most beautiful attraction - the Milford Sound. This itinerary offers much variety with almost equal time in the North Island and in the South Island. However choosing will still be difficult as there are so many choices, particularly in Wanaka and Queenstown. Hire a car, or your very own  Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. Price per day for a guided chauffeur-driven tour is NZD $445 per day, this includes transport of up to 7 persons, fuel and the chauffeur's accommodation and daily expenses. Gratuities are always appreciated.

Day 1 Auckland - Auckland

Our Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. First stop should be the volcanic cone of Mt Eden for a panoramic view of the city and harbours to orientate your bearings before we start the tour. We recommend that you stay at least 24 hours in Auckland to enjoy this beautiful city and to recover from your jet-lag. The problem is this city has so much to offer you may have trouble making choices. Buy a day ticket on the hop-on hop-off bus which makes stops at most of Auckland's attractions - you can choose to get off and catch a later bus, or continue to the next stop. Start your tour at the Waterfront where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. After all, Auckland is known as the City of Sails. Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own. You can't help but notice the Sky Tower. Admire the panoramic view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just have lunch in the revolving restaurant. The revamped old homes of Parnell are a shopper's dream - the brick paved alleyways are full of boutique clothes stores, art galleries and specialty shops. Other stops if you have time include the Auckland Museum, Auckland Art Gallery, the Victoria Park Market is for the bargain hunters, the Auckland Zoo has a walk through aviary full of New Zealand native birds and the Museum of Transport and Technology is for the history buffs. The bus will eventually bring you back to the Waterfront where you could head to the Ferry Building to take a ferry to Devonport. Wander up the dormant volcanic cone North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean, clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham Beach before wandering back to the ferry. If you run out of time or energy there is time on the morning of Day 8 to visit some more attractions. My recommendations for dinner are the seafood restaurant Harbourside or trendy Cin Cin's, both back in the Ferry Building, or wander along to the Princes Wharf where you'll find several more waterside eateries.

Day 2 Auckland - Paihia 240kms

Head north over the Harbour Bridge and follow SH1 to pretty Orewa Beach and Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast.

42 kms - After passing over the bridge in Waiwera the road starts to rise again. 200m up this hill you will see a sign for Wenderholm Regional Park. Turn right into this park. The road will take you down to the beach, which is well worth the small detour. The park has a wonderful grove of Pohutakawa trees, a native with bright red flowers. The other name for these ancient trees is the New Zealand Christmas Tree as they usually begin to flower at Christmas time. The trees are full of native Tui and Fantail birds. The Tui is a black/shiny blue medium sized bird with a white ball of feathers under its chin, and has a beautiful song. The cute little Fantail flits around your head as you disturb the insects while walking. There is a huge picture frame on the northern end of the beach, which makes for some interesting photographs. Continue north.

45kms - The cute little village of Puhoi is just one kilometer off the main highway. Most residents here are descendants from Bohemian immigrants. It may be a little early to stop at the historic pub (New Zealand slang for `drinking establishment`), but if you drive a further 3kms down this side road there is an excellent café at the cheese making factory called the Art of Cheese, where you can also see the cheese makers at work. The service and cheese platters are excellent here and there is a large selection of specialty cheeses for sale. Return to SH1 and turn left. 

71kms – Just after Warkworth, you will see Sheep World. Their 11am show is actually quite entertaining and informative, however the timing will probably not allow you to stop and quite frankly the turnoff is rather dangerous for tourists who are not yet used to driving on our roads! Continue north along State Highway 1 through Wellsford and Kaiwaka which is a hilly route, but with generally good surfaces. At the top of the steep and winding hill, the view from the top as you begin to descend is excellent – you are looking at the Whangarei Heads and the Hen and Chickens group of islands.

136kms – Waipu is an alternative lunch stop, a village strongly proud of their Scottish roots. At 147kms, there is a visitor center for the Marsden Point Oil Refinery, if you are interested in such things. At 170kms, there is a lookout on the right down over the refinery across to the Heads of the Whangarei Harbour.

172kms - I recommend the Town Basin for lunch in Whangarei - turn right into Tarewa Rd and follow `Quayside and Town Basin` signs. The Basin is a wonderful waterfront development full of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and museums. The Clapham’s Clock Museum is world famous - in Whangarei. The collection is daunting, so a guided tour is recommended for enthusiasts. For non-enthusiasts there is an information office from which you can get a peek at the collection.

After lunch it is another 70 kilometers (1 hour) to Paihia. It is an easy drive through rolling countryside – look for the wild flowers along the roadside. Alternatively, if you have time you can take the small diversion to Whangarei Falls. At the roundabout at the beginning of the expressway, turn left following the signs to Tutukaka. The 23m falls are more than worth a look and they are right next to the road. Return to SH1.

233kms – Even if the call of nature is not calling, you may want to make a stop at Kawakawa to check out the public toilets designed by Austrian architect Hunterdwasser. He chose Kawakawa to retire and die in and his unique toilets have become world famous. They are not only incredibly beautiful, but also the cleanest you’ll ever have the privilege of using!

248kms - Your first impression of the Bay of Islands may be somewhat disappointing, as the islands are not exactly visible – but believe me, they are out there – all 144 of them. The only way to appreciate this aquatic playground is from the water and there are a daunting array of companies willing to take you there. You can fish, kayak, snorkel or swim as much as you like as you cruise and stop at many of the islands tomorrow, often accompanied by dolphins.

If you have time, take the ferry across to Russell, a quaint little village which was once the capital of New Zealand! It was also once known as the ‘hell hole of the South Pacific’ between 1830 and 1840, when whore-houses abounded and drunken brawls between whalers and seamen were the norm. Today it is a much quieter place!

Day 3 Paihia - Matauri Bay 60kms                                                                                                                 ^ Top of page

After your Bay of Islands experience, drive north from Paihia along the coast road 2 ½ kms to Waitangi – the birth place of our nation. The historical Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House marks the site of the original treaty signing in 1840 between the Maori people and the British Empire. This is the heart of New Zealand’s historical beginnings, with audio-visual displays, an important Marae (Maori meeting house) which is probably the most visited by the Maori today, the beautifully restored Treaty House and a Waka (Maori war canoe). The Waikokopu Café in the Treaty House is recommended, from the grounds you can see the whole of the Bay of Islands.

After your visit, go back over the one way bridge to the roundabout and go right direction Puketana and Kaitaia. The first village is Hururu Falls which are themselves rather unspectacular.

24kms – Kerikeri is New Zealand’s top citrus and market-produce growing area. Roadside stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables abound, many operating an `honesty box` - just leave your payment in the box. Kerikeri`s claim to fame is having New Zealand`s oldest stone building. It is on the water and is called the Stone Store, so you can always pop down to see it if you have time. Otherwise continue straight, direction Kaitaia.

(Overlooking the Stone Store is the original Kororipo Pa (Maori fortress), home of the Maori chief Hongi Hika (not to be confused with the famous chief Hone Heke). Across the river Rewa’s Village is an authentic recreation of a pre-European Maori fishing settlement. There is a loop road that will bring you back to the highway at Waipapa.)

44kms – Look for the sign to the right for Matauri Bay. At 57kms you pass the side road to Kauri Cliffs, an exclusive golf resort. Green fees are $200 a person if you feel like a round tomorrow morning. At the `Tourist Drive’ intersection, go right to Matauri Bay. Get ready for the `wow` view as you begin the descent to the beach. There is a place to park and admire the view immediately on the left. You are looking at the Cavalli Islands. Around the corner is an even more stunning view. Take the descent very slowly as it is narrow and with many tight corners. Matauri Bay is famous for deep sea fishing and diving. If you are a qualified diver, you can dive on the Rainbow Warrior wreck, New Zealand`s most famous dive site. You must take the little walk up to the Rainbow Warrior Memorial on top of the hill – the views from the top are awesome. The track is rather steep on loose gravel in the beginning, so be careful. The Rainbow Warrior was a Greenpeace vessel specializing in disrupting French nuclear tests on the Pacific atolls. The French Secret Service bombed her in 1985 while she was tied up at the wharf in Auckland. This ridiculous act of terrorism resulted in the death of one of her crew, plus several others injured – something the New Zealanders have never forgiven France for.

Day 4 Matauri Bay - Kaitaia 106kms                                                                                                               

From Matauri Bay go back up the hill and turn right – the best place of all to photograph Matauri Bay is 1.5km from the intersection, the road then follows the picturesque coast through Te Ngaire and Wainui.

26kms- At the Give Way sign, go right into Whangaroa Harbour. The best views are from the top of St Pauls – the large rock standing tall on your right, but only for the energetic. Drive through Whangaroa, past the marina and hotel, you will see a road on the right marked `public access to summit`. Keep following the road right up to the top – there is parking available at the turn around point. The path up begins 50m back - cross over the stile by the Lodge. The path is unformed and rather steep and at times slippery – just follow the yellow markers. The view from the top is fabulous - however please note that it’s just as good from halfway!

Drive back through Whangaroa to the cross road where you turned right – continue straight towards Kaeo and Mangonui. At the SH10 intersection, go right direction Kaitaia.

66kms – Turn off to Mangonui, famous for its fish and chips, so a great place to stop for lunch as this is a New Zealand specialty. The Mangonui Fish Shop 100m past the wharf holds the official sort after title of `New Zealands best Fish and Chips`. It comes wrapped in paper, so to really eat them New Zealand style, take your packet away with you and eat them on the beautiful Coopers Beach – another 3 kilomtres further along the road. There is a beach parking on the right about ½ way along opposite Rosies B+B, there is more parking and public toilets down the bottom. The pohutakawa tree lined beach, particularly to the north, is just perfect to stroll along.

Stay as long as you like, it is just 45 minutes to your evenings accommodation. Leaving the car-park, turn right and continue north via pretty Cables Bay and Taipa which has the excellent Fern Flat Pottery, offering a unique collection of distinctly New Zealand decorative works of art.

99kms – At the SH1 Intersection turn left to Kaitaia, your destination for this evening. After checking in, you may like to drive out to Ahipara, 14kms to the west. This beach marks the beginning of the Ninety Mile Beach (actually 100kms of uninterrupted sand), which stretches north in a wide sweep from here. Quad biking along the beach is the specialty here, just ask at the Adventure Centre by the shops (quad bikes must be returned by 6pm). Ahipara is also a great place to watch the sunset. On your way to the beach, you may want to stop at New Zealand’s most northern winery Okahu Estate (closed winter weekends), to pick up a bottle of wine to enhance your sunset experience.

Day 5 Kaitaia - Horeke 65kms                                                                                                                        ^ Top of page

Kaitaia is the gateway to Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet rather spectacularly and where Maori believe the spirits of their ancestors depart New Zealand for the return journey north to Hawaiki. The northern most point of New Zealand is actually North Cape a little to the east, but it is far less accessible. The thin strip of land north of Kaitaia was settled by Kauri Gum diggers in the late 1800s, most of the settlers were Dalmatians. Today I recommend a visit to two establishments – the Gum Diggers Park (a three kilometer diversion off the highway north) and the Ancient Kauri Kingdom (on the main road north, 7kms from Kaitaia). The exquisite crafts and furniture created here are carved from 30,000 to 50,000 year old kauris that were in the first instance swamped by rising melt waters after the last ice-age, and in the second toppled en-masse by a giant tsunami, thus preserving the beautiful wood perfectly! If you feel that you must go to the very top (a round trip of 250kms) the best way is with a tour which includes stops at both the above establishments, enjoys lunch and a swim at the beach, takes you to Cape Reinga of course, then returns to Kaitaia by driving along a riverbed and the Ninety Mile Beach, stopping off to toboggan down the giant sand dunes en route. Don’t be tempted to take your hire car because, a) – hire cars are not insured on the riverbed stretch and b) - you really need a 4x4.

0kms – After your adventures to the north today, return to Kaitaia and continue south. At 20kms there is the steep and winding Maungataniwha Range to cross, the rain forest here is particularly lush.

54kms – Just after you cross over the Whakanekeneke River, turn right towards Horeke. Unbelievable as it may seem, but tiny Horeke used to be the centre of New Zealand. The land was governed from Mission House for the first two years, before they built Government House in Russell. It was also here that the majority of the Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi – contrary to what you learnt at the Waitangi Visitor Centre! The town had New Zealand’s first shipyard and even had a Cathedral that could seat 800! Tonight’s accommodation is in another historical homestead, with wonderful views across the Hokianga Harbour.

Day 6 Horeke - Matakohe 197kms                                                                                                                   ^ Top of page

Continue through Horeke past the oldest pub in New Zealand. It was built in 1827 to service the boat builders, go left after the one way bridge. At 3.7kms you may like to visit the Wairere Boulders – go left down McDonnell Road, the entrance is a further 1km down this road. Adult $10/Child $5, pay in the honesty box. There is a lovely 1 hour walk through a strange labyrinth of 3 million year old basalt boulders scattered through this beautiful valley. Some have unique fluting caused by acid dripping from the kauris over thousands of years. This phenomenon has previously only ever been discovered on limestone rocks. Return to the road and go left.

19kms – Turn right, direction Dargaville. Opononi is next, made famous in the fifties by the resident dolphin they named Opo. If you’d like to know more, visit the museum another kilometer along. The Hokianga Harbour is where Maori legend proclaims that the great navigator and explorer Kupe first made land. He discovered New Zealand around 800 AD and named it Aeotearoa, meaning the `Land of the Long White Cloud`.

The next village is Omapere, the tearoom/bakery next door to the Hokianga Motel has good value coffee and cakes, with excellent views across to the giant sand dunes. The Omapere Wharf is a great place to take a photo of the dunes, where they filmed plates for `Lawrence of Arabia`. Another great place to view the dunes is from the harbour head called Arai-te-uru – take the turnoff another 200m up the hill. From the bottom car-park you can take the Ocean Beach track down to the rocks below, there is a blowhole to the left. However the parking is not safe, be sure to take all valuables! Back on the main road, go right.

86kms – You are now entering the Waipoua Forest, one of the few remaining tracks of virgin native kauri forest. It is also home to another 300 species of trees. The main attraction here is the much loved giant kauri Tane Mahuta. At 2000 years old, it is one of earth’s most ancient trees and it stands only a short stroll from the parking. The kauris are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. From the picnic area there is a lovely view over the forest’s canopy, you could buy lunch at the caravan which sells the usual takeaways and snacks. Toilets are also available. Only 2kms further along is the parking for the much less touristy giant kauri Te Matua Ngahere (20 minute walk) and the Four Sisters (only 100m from the parking). $2 is asked for parking security – it’s worth it! The forest gives you a fair idea of what the vegetation was like when the first settlers arrived - before they set about stripping the land for the timber and for farming. Since 1952 it has been forbidden to cut down a kauri, so they are making a comeback.

152kms – Dargaville is proud to be the kumara growing capital. Kumaras are delicious sweet potatoes brought to New Zealand by the early Polynesian settlers. Turn left, direction Auckland and Whangarei. The highway turns south 2 ½ kilometers further, direction Brynderwyn.

197kms – Matakohe is our destination for this evening. It is also home of the excellent Kauri Museum. This museum is one of the best in New Zealand and definitely worth a visit. It closes at 5.30pm - you need at least an hour, so if you haven’t time to see it all, you can always return in the morning.

Day 7 Matakohe - Auckland 200kms                                                                                                                 ^ Top of page

Departing from the Kauri Museum, continue south direction Brynderwyn, which isn’t really a place, it is the intersection where SH12 meets SH1. Turn right, direction Wellsford where you turn right towards Helensville, following the Twin Coast Discovery route.

105kms – Helensville, on the West Coast, lies on the southern reaches of the Kaipara Harbour, which is one of the biggest natural harbours in the world. Dargaville (on day 6) was on the northern reaches of this same harbour. The late 1800’s saw a hive of activity with the logging, sawing and exporting of kauris. Just 30kms due east of here is Orewa on the East Coast, that you passed through on Day 2. Follow SH16 direction Auckland until Waimauku.

123kms – Turn right to Muriwai Beach - a solitary kind of place, but well worth the diversion to view the entertaining 2500 gannets in action, even if it is not breeding season. As you descend towards the beach take the `Gannet Colony` turnoff left - it is an easy 2 minute stroll along flax and pohutakawa lined paths to view the nesting gannets (spring and summer months only). The first path left leads to the best lookout where you can look directly down onto the nest sites and cute little chicks as well as admire the flying skills as the parents come into land with their two-metre wing spans. The stunning views along Muriwai Beach are a bonus.

Return to SH16, and go right. Beesonline is 1.2 kilometres on the right - a honey centre, restaurant and excellent coffee stop. A pot of pohutakawa honey makes a unique gift for those at home. If you are walking independently you could always have lunch here – try the West Coast Platter with smoked snapper, herb-fried cod, squid in coriander and chilli, olives, sundried tomatoes and dipping sauces. Alternatively, Matua Valley winery in Waimauku, Cooper`s Creek (3kms left down side road in Huapai), Nobilos or Babich wineries in Kumeu could be visited. But you need to depart by 11.20am to reach the rendezvous point on time for your wild West Coast experience.

Follow the Twin Coast Discovery Route which follows the Scenic Drive south along the Waitakere Ranges ridge. At 174 kilometres there is an excellent lookout on the left awarding you wonderful views over Auckland. You can even see Coromandel and Great Barrier Island in the distance on a clear day. 

178kms – Just after the turnoff to Piha Beach, you will see the Nikau Club Restaurant on your left. Park here, where your local guide will meet you at 12 o`clock to take you on a bush and beach experience, along beautiful wild and deserted beaches. During lunch, discuss with your guide how much or how little you would like to walk. The bush is a protected zone, with hundreds of waterfalls to choose from. The deserted beaches provided the perfect location for the filming of `Piano`. After your tour, continue along the Scenic Drive towards Titirangi - there is another lookout on the right offering great views over Manakau Harbour – Auckland`s second harbour. Just after the lookout, there is the Arataki Visitor Centre (free), if you’d like to learn more about the bush and Waitakere Regional Park. There is another giant frame here to frame your postcard perfect picture.

188kms – You are now arriving in Titirangi, a lovely little village full of cafés and art galleries, so a possibility for dinner. Continue to follow the Twin Coast Discovery Route back to Auckland city.

Day 8 Auckland - Coromandel 176kms                                                                                                     ^ Top of page

Before you depart for Coromandel, you may like to visit a few attractions you missed on your first day. Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!

118kms – Turn right into Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late `80s this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town. If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. $8 Adult/$4 Child. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various miner's tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.

Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! At 142kms, 144kms and 149kms there are places to pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.

157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left and Manaia Harbour to the right. At 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.

171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.

Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight, full of cafés and craft shops.

Day 9 Coromandel - Hahei 80kms 

This morning you could:-

0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.  

28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.

41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43.5kms continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.

72kms – Turn left to Hahei and Hot Water Beach. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! You can dig a hole on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.

Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-

Day 10 Hahei - Whakatane 265kms                                                                                                             ^ Top of page

Today there is a long drive to Whakatane. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed. It is OK to do the excellent 9am kayak tour before hitting the road.

0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.

21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.

49kms - State Highway 25 turns left and at 69.3kms go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long, and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding you may wish to stop for coffee.

100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga. Morton Estate Winery on SH2 in Katikati is recommended if you need to stock up on some excellent wines!

159kms – Bethlehem is home to the Mills Reef Winery and up-market restaurant, the turnoff is to the right just as you come into town. This option is for those that left Hahei early this morning. Otherwise continue straight at the roundabout, direction Mount Maunganui. On the expressway, keep following Mt Maunganui, left.

165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.

167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. 3 kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout towards Town Centre –Mt M, and head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may want to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.

Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.

187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the T intersection at 190kms go left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region, watch out for the giant kiwifruit a few kilometres from here. If you’d like to know more about the fruit (and have time) stop for a tour, or just visit their café and souvenir shop where they offer tastings of the original green kiwifruit, Kiwi Gold and the new Baby Kiwi, plus lots of fruit wine and yummy liqueurs.

209kms – SH2 goes left, direction Whakatane. At 243kms SH2 turns right, but continue straight towards Whakatane, your destination for this evening.

Day 11 Whakatane - Rotorua 90kms                                                                                                            ^ Top of page

The highlight in Whakatane is without doubt a visit to White Island, an active volcano 50kms offshore. For me the tour scored a 10 out of 10 for awesomeness. Staring down into the crater’s mouth, stepping around steaming sulphur pools and bubbling mud will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of my life. However the island doesn’t have a wharf, so persons with low mobility are discouraged from taking the trip, also preferably no children under the age of 8 – and only then if they are well behaved and can be trusted not to wander from the path, it is a dangerous environment out there. Covered shoes are also a requirement. Alternatively, there are helicopter tours, with one hour on the island, or fixed wing flight-seeing over the island. You can combine these flights with a trip over Mt Tarawera, an impressive volcano which blew in 1886, that not only split the mountain rather dramatically, but also buried the famous Pink and White terraces, together with three villages and the loss of 153 lives.

While in town take a short drive west to the harbour entrance to see the beautiful statue of Wairaka, a Maori heroin who went against Maori laws to save the drifting waka (canoe). If you’ve seen ‘Whale Rider’, you’ll understand how strongly the Maoris feel about what is ‘tapu’ or out of bounds. She proclaimed ‘Ka Whakatane au I amu’ which means ‘to act like a man’, so the city was named after her heroic acts.

I also recommend the drive over the hill to beautiful Ohope Beach – the Café Surfside does excellent takeaway coffees to be enjoyed on the beach, they also have a great selection of food. For the best view of Whakatane turn left at the top of the hill (just before you start your descent) onto Otarewairere Road – the first lookout on the right has wonderful views east along Ohope Beach and out to White Island. Continue on this road and take the first left. Follow the road right to the end at Kohi Point (2.3kms) where you will find the remnants of Toi’s Pa and a lookout west down to Whakatane and the river from the point. Toi was one of the original Maori immigrants making this one of the oldest pa sites in New Zealand.

0kms - Departing from the waterfront return to the shops and continue along The Strand, go left at the second roundabout (Commerce Street) then right at the McDonalds (Domain Road) following the signs to Rotorua and Tauranga. Continue straight for 3kms, you then need to go right at the 3rd roundabout.

7kms – Continue straight, you are now on the SH30 to Rotorua, at 14.5kms follow the highway left. The road skirts Lake Rotoma, Lake Rotoehu, Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotorua which are all flooded volcanic craters. The latter you will probably smell before you see it, as the area is still active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell.

72.7kms - Hells Gate. This is one of your options for this afternoon, if you’d like a mud spa treatment that will leave you glowing. As you arrive in Rotorua, keep following the City Centre signs, this will bring you to the lakefront of Rotorua, your destination for this evening. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:- 

Day 12 Rotorua - Taupo 90kms                                                                                                                       ^ Top of page

The next day you could :-

29.4kms – Heading south towards Taupo, turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!

Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such a kaleidoscope of colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.

Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Waiotapu Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather, and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left.

52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course. The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native Tui birds. 

78.2kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.

Return to SH1, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. The mountains to the south of the lake are popular for skiing in the winter, and walking in the summer. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front where most of the eating and sleeping establishments are situated. The trout infested lake and rivers are a fisherman's delight!

Day 13 Taupo - Napier 150kms                                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

Depart by 9am if you would like to do the winery tour at 11am in Napier - from the tourist information office traffic lights travel south along the lake front. The highlight of today’s trip is the ever changing scenery – rugged hills, beautiful valleys, vineyard covered plains and huge vistas.

2.8kms – Left, direction Napier onto SH5. The first part of the trip is through the Kaingaroa State Forest, which stretches from Rotorua to the south of Lake Taupo.

54.3kms – The scenic lookout on the left takes you to a view of the Waipunga Falls next to the road, well worthwhile the stop.

65kms – In Tarawera you may wish to swim in the totally untouristy Hot Springs, which are above the Waipunga River. The scenery after this changes rather dramatically over the Titiokua Saddle. 

126kms – Eskdale provides a few coffee stop options as well as the first wineries, many offering tasting and cellar sales. Please note that tastings at wineries are usually free and although not compulsory - purchasing is expected to help offset the costs of paying the knowledgeable and helpful staff. Some wineries do charge a little, which is then deducted from any purchases. The best way to sample is accompanied with a great meal at a table under the vines! The Hawke's Bay region is the North Island’s top wine producing region. A sunny climate, combined with excellent growing conditions as led to many of the wineries earning gold medals at international competitions.

132kms – SH5 meets SH2, turn right. Esk Valley Estate is 2kms further along on the right and is a favourite of mine. It makes a great place to start your own winery tour.

141kms – SH2 turns left, following City Centre and Port. At 143kms go right at the roundabout and keep following City Centre and Tennyson Street. This will bring you to Marine Parade on the waterfront and the tourist office. Please note that the sea is treacherous around here and swimming is usually banned. Napier was almost totally destroyed in the 1931 earthquake, causing a massive rebuilding program throughout the 30’s, resulting in a vibrant city known as the Art Deco capital of the world.

My stay in Napier would go something like this:-

Day 14 Napier - Martinborough 325kms                                                                                                            ^ Top of page

Quite a few kilometers to be driven today, so how about brunch at a world acclaimed winery first. Depart from the tourist office and continue south along Marine Parade and follow the coast.

11.7kms – Just after Clive village, turn left direction Cape Kidnappers and Te Awanga.

23kms – Clifton Beach has some wonderful views of the Cape Kidnappers Cliffs. If you’d like to visit the gannet colony, it is possible to do a 5 hour walk at low tide - it is 8kms one way along the beach; or you can hire kayaks from the Clifton Bay Café; or take the 4x4 tractor tour – departure times are posted daily; or the more comfortable 4x4 overland trip departing 9.30am from Summerlee homestead a few kilometers back. Please note though, if you choose golf or a gannet tour you will not have enough time to visit the excellent Mount Bruce bird sanctuary famous for their kiwis, tuataras, kakas and eels to name just a few of the attractions. For those wishing to play at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers Golf Course, enter at the locked gate opposite the woolshed, 200m before the Clifton Bay Café. The clubhouse is an 8.5kms scenic drive from the gate. 

26kms – Return the way you came. Clearview Estate Winery is one of Hawke's Bay’s best wineries, with an excellent restaurant to match. Open at 10am for coffee, wine or brunch under the vines. Continue back the way you came, through Te Awanga and Haumoana.

28.7kms – The small and privately owned British Car Museum is owned by an eccentric collector who is proud to show off  his old favourites. One kilometre further, turn left at the egg farm onto Park Hill Road, then right onto Raymond Road.

31.4kms – Turn left onto Tukituki Road. Follow this pretty valley until the bridge. The outcrop on the right is called ‘The sleeping giant’, or Te Mata Peak – your next stop.

43.4kms – Turn right over the bridge, and at 49kms left direction Havelock. Along this road are several more wineries, including the world renowned Te Mata Estate on the right. The Arataki Honey Centre (turn right after a few kilometres onto Arataki Road) is also a possibility for all things buzzy, including a huge working hive behind glass, displays, lots of yummy honey and innovative gifts.

52kms – Turn left, following the signs to Te Mata Peak. It’s just 6kms to the very top for some awe-inspiring views of Hawke's Bay. Tandem paragliding is a favourite past time from this spot. From here it is a 2 hour drive to Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre, recommended not only for the endangered birds, but also for a late lunch. Return down the hill, turn right at the ‘Give Way’ onto Simla Ave, then left at the roundabout.

65kms – In Havelock at the main Napier Road roundabout follow left to Wellington and after the Havelock shops veer off to the right, following Te Aute Road to rejoin SH2 south.

If you have time, Norsewood is home of Norsewear for natural woolen clothing popular with trampers and farmers alike from all over the world. The factory shop is open 7 days a week. Many Scandinavians immigrated to the area, the Norwegians to Norsewood, the Danish to Dannevirke.

200kms – In Woodville SH2 turns left to Masterton. On the banks of the Mangatainoka River 13 kms later you can’t miss the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may want to visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.

258kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre is New Zealand’s best for viewing Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DoC (Department of Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here - there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takehe or Tuataras.

281kms – Masterton. At the first roundabout, turn right direction Wellington and continue to follow the signs through town. Next you come to Carterton, home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua is unique to New Zealand, the informative display explains how they are caught from deep waters with snorkels and how the inner shell casing is ground down to reveal the beautifully patterned colours. OK agreed, some of the items on sale are painfully kitsch, but somebody must buy them otherwise they wouldn’t continue to make them. However many other items are unique and useful, not to mention stunningly beautiful, so will make a perfect souvenir from New Zealand.

304kms – Greytown is a pretty village full of Victorian buildings and quaint antique shops. Just after the village on Wood Street is the Puzzlewood, Adults $7, Child $4 where you will find many puzzling activities for young and old, all made of wood naturally.

307kms – Turn left, direction Martinborough, a unique wine village and your destination for this evening. There are 20+ boutique wineries specializing in Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines, many within staggering distance of the the Village Square, which is laid out in the shape of the Union Jack. The wine centre on the square is the best place to start your sampling, followed by a memorable meal at any one of the excellent cafés.

Day 15 Martinborough - Wellington 205kms                                                                                                    ^ Top of page

Today I’m taking you to the very edges of earth to the wild southern coast of the North Island, visiting Cape Palliser’s candy striped lighthouse, the sea-lion colony, the baby bulldozers at Ngawi and the Putangirua Pinnacles. There are no shops or restaurants, so you need to take some food and refreshments with you! The highlight in my eyes is definitely the walk to the Pinnacles, an unusual valley of scree that has been compacted and lifted out of the sea, rising to a height of 200 metres. The erosion of the land over the millennia has left fingers of gravel spires and turrets topped with a harder stone which provide some, let’s say, interesting views. From below you feel the full force of what nature can inflict on this earth, from above you get a full picture of the valley – and it’s awesome. The walk is a bit of a scramble to say the least over river boulders, debris and fossils, but the adventure is more than worth the small effort. We met some 70+ year olds the day my young family and I made the walk and they were bubbling with enthusiasm. So I have decided to recommend this to all, because if they can do it as well as my young children, then I’m sure you can too! 

0kms – Departing from the Village Square, head south along Jellicoe Street, direction Lake Ferry.

32.5kms – Left, direction Cape Palliser. The Putangirua Pinnacles Reserve car park is on the left at 46.4kms. The walk will take you about 3 hours if you walk to the base of the Pinnacles, then up to the lookout and back down the bush track.

You need to follow the stream for 35 – 45 minutes, until the 1st streambed branching off to the left. When we did it, most of the track was washed away and we had to make several crossings of the stream. After we visited the base of the Pinnacles, we returned down the smaller streambed to the orange marker 100m before the bottom – this leads to the steep track that will take you up to the lookout….strenuous, but wow, what a view. We then continued on the bush walk back to the car park. Admittedly it’s a bit of an adventure getting there, but as my husband declared " it’s a world wonder”. After the walk, departing from the car park, turn left.

65kms – Ngawi is home to the baby bulldozers with imaginative names such as “Tinky Winky” and “Babe”. Their owners are crayfishermen and fishermen, the only source of income in the area.

72kms – Cape Palliser. The rocks and beach between Mangatoetoe and the lighthouse are home to thousands of sea-lions, a seemingly harmless blob of blubber. You can easily approach within metres, but be sure not to stand between the animal and their escape route to the sea. Return along the coast.

112kms – Right, direction Martinborough and at 125kms, left direction Featherston.

154kms – Featherston is the first opportunity for a café stop, however there is a better choice with a view in another 10 kilometres if you can wait. The town housed New Zealand’s largest army training base during WW1, with about 35000 troops passing through the camp before they had to walk the Rimutaka Hill to Wellington to be shipped overseas. Quite a formidable feat you’ll realize once you’ve negotiated the tortuous “hill” yourself. Messines in Belgium is twinned with this little town because New Zealand troops recaptured it from the Germans in June 1917.

165kms – The Summit car park and café is on the right – pass over the median strip with care! There is a great view of Lake Wairarapa and the coast to the east and of the Rimutaka Incline to the west, where the specially built Fell Engine train climbed the steep 265m slopes. From here it’s all downhill, literally, to Wellington. If you do not require your hire-car tomorrow, then consider returning it today - you will be picking up a new one in Picton.

Day 16 Wellington

Day off from driving! There are numerous attractions to be enjoyed today :-

Day 17 Wellington - Marlborough Sounds                                                                                                   ^ Top of page

Today you cross to the South Island on the 8am flight. Although this is a commercial flight, it can easily be described as a scenic flight over the Marlborough Sounds! A sound is a flooded river valley as opposed to the flooded glacial valleys called fiords (the 'sounds' in the south of Westland are misnamed). On arrival a free shuttle will whisk you to the Picton wharf to connect with the water-taxi to the stunning Queen Charlotte Wilderness Park. Today I recommend you disembark at Ship Cove and walk the rest of the way - your luggage will be dropped at the Lodge for you. These are just a few of the rave reviews the lodge has received :-

Day 18 Marlborough Sounds                                                                                             

Today you can walk to your hearts content, fish, collect mussels, visit nesting penguins or wander deserted golden beaches. This is a place where the passing traffic is likely to be a pod of orcas on their way south for their summer holiday, or dolphins leaping with joy. Noise here is not the sound of cars going past or the neighbours squabbling, but the sound of bellbirds and tuis singing and the smells are of fresh salt air mixed with the ancient odour of the bush. This is New Zealand at her very best.

Day 19 Picton - Kaiteriteri 178kms                                                                                                                  

This morning the water-taxi will deposit you back to Picton at 12.45pm, pick up your new hire-car and drive west along the waterfront of Queen Charlotte Sound to the enchanting little village of Havelock at the head of Pelorus Sound.

35kms - Havelock was once a thriving gold-mining town, however the gold is green these days and comes in the form of green-lipped mussels - try them for lunch at the Mussel Boys Restaurant. The town's most famous resident was Sir Ernest Rutherford, Nobel winner for being the first person to split the atom! If you'd like to learn more about mussels there is a tour to the mussel farms leaving at 2pm with steamed mussels and a glass of wine included en route.

110kms - Nelson holds the title as most sunniest place in New Zealand, with absolutely stunning golden beaches in particular north of Kaiteriteri and around the Abel Tasman National Park, your destination for this evening. The region is home to countless artists and crafts people in and around the city, many of them were involved in creating the many props of Middle-Earth.

Continue on SH6 through Stoke and just after Richmond turn right at the roundabout onto SH60, direction Motueka. In Mapua you may like to take the short diversion off SH60 to the excellent multi award winning restaurant the Smokehouse and the Cool Store Art Gallery opposite is well worth looking at. Soon after passing through Motueka, turn right immediately after crossing the Riwaka River to Kaiteriteri. Watch out for the Flying Fox en route - here you can ascend 700m up a hillside in a carriage and then descend at 100 km per hour! This evening try the little walk at the eastern end of Kaiteriteri Beach to the Kaka Pa Point Lookout, with the idyllic little Breakers Beach below.

Day 20 Abel Tasman                                                                                                                                      ^ Top of page

The Abel Tasman National Park is our most beautiful, but unfortunately it is also our most popular - hence the famed coastal walking track can become quite crowded at times. It is named after the Dutchman Abel Tasman who first 'discovered' this land in 1642 and consequently named it New Zealand after his home province in The Netherlands (recently discovered evidence north of Auckland suggests there was a Portuguese colony here before then).

The world famous Coastal Walkway is actually a multi-day walk, however it is possible to take a water-taxi part way along and then either walk back or kayak along the crystal clear coastline. My recommendation is to take the scenic cruise to Onetahuti then walk the most picturesque stretch via Bark Bay and the Swing Bridge back to Torrent Bay where they will pick you up again at 5pm (the earlier water-taxi does not allow enough time to swim or relax on the golden beaches). Alternatively you can be dropped at Torrent Bay by an ordinary water-taxi (this should be timed for low tide) and then walk 3 ½ hours back to Marahau via Anchorage Bay, Watering Cove, Stillwell Bay, Apple Tree Bay and Tinline Bay, followed by a seafood fettuccine and a beer at the Park Café. However the bush is only regenerating bush having originally been cleared and the views are far less awesome on this stretch. It is also possible to join a multi-day trip combining the walk and water-taxi with kayaking the azure-coloured clear waters. In a word, paradise!

Day 21 Abel Tasman - Hanmer Springs 373kms                                                                                       

0kms – Return 15kms to Motueka and turn right after the shops onto SH61. It follows the Motueka River, a fertile valley full of hops, kiwifruit and apple orchards. At 41kms there are 2 one-way bridges on blind-bends! You have the right of way, however be careful! At the Kohatu Hotel SH61 joins SH6. Turn right and follow this road and at 84kms, just after Korere turn left, direction Saint Arnaud.

118kms – Turn right to the alpine village of Saint Arnaud, gateway to the trout infested Nelson Lakes National Park and starting point to numerous alpine walks ranging from 20 minutes to 7 days – take your pick, or just enjoy the scenery (continue through the village to the park entrance, the walks start from the parking on the left down by the lakefront). The 45 minute Honey Dew walk through the virgin Beech Forest is particularly lovely. The level walking track takes you along the lake then deep into the ancient forest where the canopy is full of bellbirds and tuis competing in birdsong and where the forest floor is a refuge for our native kiwi – unfortunately they are nocturnal and avid sleepers so you are not likely to see one! My favourite walk is to gorgeous Lake Angelus, but to manage it in a day you need to catch a (scenic) water-taxi to the southern end of Lake Rotoiti and follow the Hukere Valley to Lake Angelus Basin and return the same way. After your walk I recommend Elaine’s Alpine Café back in the village for lunch. Continue west along SH63.

Murchison is next, famous for almost being wiped out in the 1929 earthquake. You should fill up with petrol here as there is not another service station for 100kms! Continue on SH6.

197kms – It is possible to make a small side trip here if you have time (otherwise continue straight on SH65 to Lewis Pass.) SH6 turns right over O’Sullivan’s Bridge - 3kms later you will come to the longest Swing-bridge in New Zealand. There is a short walk across the swing-bridge to the Ariki Falls, not spectacular but the pink granite rocks are unique. Beware of the man-eating sand-flies! They also hire out pans if you would like to try your luck at panning for gold in the Buller Gorge. Return to O'Sullivans Bridge and turn right, direction Lewis Pass. The Maruia Falls 8 kilometres later are worth a quick look at – dramatic evidence of the 1929 earthquake.  

272kms - Turn left onto SH7 which will take you over the 864 metre high Lewis Pass. In pre-European times the Maori used this route to the West Coast in search of greenstone, on their return they are said to have slaughtered their slaves in the valley to the right followed by a feast on their remains - hence it is known as Cannibal Gorge. As you descend you may want to peruse the naming of the mountains surrounding you – there is Mt Skidaddle, The Grand Duchess, Niggerhead, Spider Web and Mons Sex Millia to mention just a few….I’m sorry I can’t enlighten you with a story behind these names.

357kms - Turn left to Hanmer Springs, your destination for this evening. Here you can enjoy a wealth of activities – their specialty mountain-biking, bungee jumping, rafting, skiing or horse riding, followed by a well earned soak in the award winning Thermal Resort. The town is particularly beautiful in autumn when the tree-lined streets and forests are splattered with golden hues.

Day 22 Hanmer Springs - Kaikoura  142kms                                                                                             ^ Top of page

You have time to enjoy some adventures this morning before heading to Kaikoura along the scenic Alpine Pacific Triangle.

0kms - Return to SH7 and turn left, at 30 kilometres turn left and after 3 kilometres left again onto SH70 to Rotherham and Waiau.

122kms - Turn left to Kaikoura. The rugged coast is home to a diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range. Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks, freshly cooked crayfish is usually available from a roadside shop housed in a caravan. A deep-sea canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales. However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator. Sperm whales can dive to a depth of 2kms and stay submerged for up to 2 hrs and can swim at 40km/h. Also, did you know that dolphins do not breath automatically as humans do so when they sleep only half the brain sleeps at a time.

Your first stop in Kaikoura should be the Lookout just off Scarborough Terrace. From here you can view the azure-blue waters around Kaikoura Peninsula bordered by the mountain backdrop behind. The excellent 2 hour Peninsula Walkway at the head of the peninsula takes you along the shoreline and back over the cliffs.

Day 23 Kaikoura - Christchurch 200kms                                                                                                   

After your morning excursion to view the whales or swim with the dolphins, drive down the east coast to Christchurch.

68kms  - Turn left to Gore Bay to visit the uniquely eroded (think organ pipes) Cathedral Cliffs. Continue on this loop road which will rejoin SH1 in Domett. Continue south on SH1.

The Waipara Valley is a sunny and well drained valley and is fast becoming the new vine growing region. I can recommend a stop at the family-owned Pegasus Bay winery, turn left 4.5 kilometres after the village. Try their generous platter loaded with cheeses and locally caught salmon and duck accompanied with some excellent award-winning wines on the lawn.

Christchurch is New Zealand's second largest city which sprawls across the Canterbury Plains towards the Southern Alps. The main attractions here are the English style gardens and parks, the city even has its very own Avon River on which one can punt. It has an English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites evident everywhere. The best way to see the city is on the tour aboard a beautifully restored tram which provides commentary about the various sites along the way.

Other attractions in Christchurch worth considering later this afternoon or tomorrow morning are :-

Day 24 Christchurch - Mt Cook 330kms                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

0kms - Follow SH1 through Ashburton and soon after passing over the Rangitata River, turn right onto SH79, direction Geraldine and Fairlie

Geraldine is a great place for a coffee and has a few attractions worth stopping for. You can choose from:-

182kms - The highway joins SH8 to Lake Tekapo. The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass. You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, a flat expanse of tussock grasslands and home to New Zealand’s highest mountain Aoraki (or Mt Cook as it is known) plus the longest glacier Tasman and sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the Southern Alps - and it bears little resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.

225kms – The village at Lake Tekapo is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog and grabbing a coffee. The gorgeous turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles suspended in the water.

240kms – Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of Mt Aoraki across the opaque Lake Pukaki.

270kms – Turn right onto SH80. Lord of the Rings fans may prefer to stay in Twizel to view where they filmed the massive Battle of the Pelennor Fields on the grassy fields to the left of this road, however it really would be sacrilege not to make the 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman and Hooker Glaciers. The drive encompasses world-class scenery at its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the Mount Cook National Park. On arrival you can choose from:-

Day 25 Mt Cook - Wanaka 212kms                                                                                                                  ^ Top of page

You can stay as long as you like before heading off to Wanaka. I recommend the Sealy Tarns Track, or for the fit it is possible to go all the way to the Muller Hut and back in one day - the best day walk I've ever done! The walk offers a gargantuan vista of Mount Aoraki, the glaciers and the exotically coloured lakes below. This is New Zealand at its very best. Please note appropriate clothing and footwear is required - storms and snow can be upon you within a few hours, even in the summer, so always be prepared for the worst.

Alternatively there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby). There is the Pelennor Fields tour - probably guided by a Rohirrim or Gondorian extra, the tour also gives a highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming. Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way down.

0kms – Return along SH80 to Twizel, and head south on SH8 via the scenic Lindis Pass. Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.

174kms - Just after Tarras, turn right onto SH8A to Wanaka. The tranquil lake has picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand!

Day 26 Wanaka                                                                                                                                                 

One of the best short walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier, and its FREE. The walk will take you up through beautiful rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the face of the glacier. Wanaka is also the best place to try tandem sky-diving! Or how about a 4x4 quad bike tour on a sheep farm with great views. The local ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer - take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route down on a mountain bike. Rally car enthusiasts should try the Mountain Monster Rally, where you are strapped in the passenger seat while the expert takes on a thrilling off-road circuit at a very fast pace! Trout fishing and skiing are the locals other favourites. Glendhu Bay is a sheltered and picturesque bay, particularly in autumn when the exotic trees provide rich colour for your postcard perfect photo of the mountains behind. Just beyond is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular Motatapu Gorge. At the northern reaches of Lake Wanaka in a little place called Makaroa you can try the Siberia Experience of 3 thrills in one day – fly into the Mt Aspiring National Park (the Misty Mountains in LOTR), hike/tramp over the hill to the river and jet-boat back out. Wow!

Day 27 Wanaka - Glenorchy 130kms                                                                                                                ^ Top of page

I recommend the scenic Crown Range Route via the old gold mining towns of Cardrona and Arrowtown. It is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th century. Before you drive up over the 1120m high pass, you may like to visit the old Cardrona Hotel - you will be forgiven if you think it was used as the Prancing Pony in Bree in the LOTR trilogy.

The views from the top of the pass are stunning. Take your time coming down the zig-zag road! At the bottom, turn right to the pretty tree-lined town of Arrowtown - another former gold mining settlement. Wander amongst the historic cottages, visit the reconstructed Chinese Settlement (the Chinese were subjected to many prejudices so had their own settlement) and wander along the path by the river to view where Isildur lost his life when attacked by the Orcs in the Trilogy.

Return to SH6, where you can go right to Queenstown, or left to the Kawarau Gorge. The Kawarau River Bridge is home to A.J. Hackett's very first bungee jumping platform - this is where you get to tie a huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the river, if you dare - or just have fun watching the others. Just after the bridge you can turn right to Chard Farm and drive just a short distance up this road to see the location of the Pillars of the Kings on the River Anduin (LOTR). A few more kilometres along the gorge you will find the excellent winery and restaurant at Gibbston Valley Wines.

Return the way you came and continue on to Queenstown. However our destination this evening is further along, at the far end of Lake Wakitipu where you'll find a little place called Paradise. From here the most scenic jet-boat ride in the world (another New Zealand invention) will take you tomorrow on a thrilling ride up the Dart River into the very heart of the Mt Aspiring National Park  - there is an option to raft back down....amazing! Horse-trekking through the 'forests of Lothlorian' is also recommended.

76kms - Bob's Cove has a short loop track along a nature trail through native forest full