This itinerary takes you practically the length of New Zealand seeing most of our top attractions between the Bay of Islands in the north all the way down to Queenstown in the south, driving almost 4000 kilometres in 26 days. From Auckland you first take the circular route north to the Bay of Islands and Waipoua Forest, then drive south via the awesome Coromandel Peninsula to Whakatane, Rotorua and Taupo to take in a little Maori culture and enjoy the volcanic area. You then continue south to Wellington via the wine growing regions around Napier and Martinborough. The South Island section begins with some relaxing time in the stunningly beautiful Marlborough Sounds before heading down the east coast to Kaikoura (where you can join a whale or dolphin spotting excursion) and Christchurch. You then follow the Southern Alps all the way to Mt Cook, Wanaka, Queenstown, Paradise (yes, it does exist) and our most beautiful attraction - the Milford Sound. This itinerary offers much variety with almost equal time in the North Island and in the South Island. However choosing will still be difficult as there are so many choices, particularly in Wanaka and Queenstown. Hire a car, or your very own  Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. Price per day for a guided chauffeur-driven tour is NZD $445 per day, this includes transport of up to 7 persons, fuel and the chauffeur's accommodation and daily expenses. Gratuities are always appreciated.

Day 1 Auckland - Auckland

Our Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. First stop should be the volcanic cone of Mt Eden for a panoramic view of the city and harbours to orientate your bearings before we start the tour. We recommend that you stay at least 24 hours in Auckland to enjoy this beautiful city and to recover from your jet-lag. The problem is this city has so much to offer you may have trouble making choices. Buy a day ticket on the hop-on hop-off bus which makes stops at most of Auckland's attractions - you can choose to get off and catch a later bus, or continue to the next stop. Start your tour at the Waterfront where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. After all, Auckland is known as the City of Sails. Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own. You can't help but notice the Sky Tower. Admire the panoramic view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just have lunch in the revolving restaurant. The revamped old homes of Parnell are a shopper's dream - the brick paved alleyways are full of boutique clothes stores, art galleries and specialty shops. Other stops if you have time include the Auckland Museum, Auckland Art Gallery, the Victoria Park Market is for the bargain hunters, the Auckland Zoo has a walk through aviary full of New Zealand native birds and the Museum of Transport and Technology is for the history buffs. The bus will eventually bring you back to the Waterfront where you could head to the Ferry Building to take a ferry to Devonport. Wander up the dormant volcanic cone North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean, clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham Beach before wandering back to the ferry. If you run out of time or energy there is time on the morning of Day 6 to visit some more attractions. My recommendations for dinner are the seafood restaurant Harbourside or trendy Cin Cin's, both back in the Ferry Building, or wander along to the Princes Wharf where you'll find several more waterside eateries.

Day 2 Auckland - Paihia 240kms

Head north over the Harbour Bridge and follow SH1 to pretty Orewa Beach and Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast.

42 kms - After passing over the bridge in Waiwera the road starts to rise again. 200m up this hill you will see a sign for Wenderholm Regional Park. Turn right into this park. The road will take you down to the beach, which is well worth the small detour. The park has a wonderful grove of Pohutakawa trees, a native with bright red flowers. The other name for these ancient trees is the New Zealand Christmas Tree as they usually begin to flower at Christmas time. The trees are full of native Tui and Fantail birds. The Tui is a black/shiny blue medium sized bird with a white ball of feathers under its chin and has a beautiful song. The cute little Fantail flits around your head as you disturb the insects while walking. There is a huge picture frame on the northern end of the beach, which makes for some interesting photographs. Continue north.

45kms - The cute little village of Puhoi is just one kilometer off the main highway. Most residents here are descendants from Bohemian immigrants. It may be a little early to stop at the historic pub (New Zealand slang for `drinking establishment`), but if you drive a further 3kms down this side road there is an excellent café at the cheese making factory called the Art of Cheese, where you can also see the cheese makers at work. The service and cheese platters are excellent here and there is a large selection of specialty cheeses for sale. Return to SH1 and turn left. 

71kms – Just after Warkworth, you will see Sheep World. Their 11am show is actually quite entertaining and informative, however the timing will probably not allow you to stop and quite frankly the turnoff is rather dangerous for tourists who are not yet used to driving on our roads! Continue north along State Highway 1 through Wellsford and Kaiwaka which is a hilly route, but with generally good surfaces. At the top of the steep and winding hill, the view from the top as you begin to descend is excellent – you are looking at the Whangarei Heads and the Hen and Chickens group of islands.

136kms – Waipu is an alternative lunch stop, a village strongly proud of their Scottish roots. At 147kms, there is a visitor center for the Marsden Point Oil Refinery, if you are interested in such things. At 170kms, there is a lookout on the right down over the refinery across to the Heads of the Whangarei Harbour.

172kms - I recommend the Town Basin for lunch in Whangarei - turn right into Tarewa Rd and follow `Quayside and Town Basin` signs. The Basin is a wonderful waterfront development full of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and museums. The Clapham’s Clock Museum is world famous - in Whangarei. The collection is daunting, so a guided tour is recommended for enthusiasts. For non-enthusiasts there is an information office from which you can get a peek at the collection.

After lunch it is another 70 kilometers (1 hour) to Paihia. It is an easy drive through rolling countryside – look for the wild flowers along the roadside. Alternatively, if you have time you can take the small diversion to Whangarei Falls. At the roundabout at the beginning of the expressway, turn left following the signs to Tutukaka. The 23m falls are more than worth a look and they are right next to the road. Return to SH1.

233kms – Even if the call of nature is not calling, you may want to make a stop at Kawakawa to check out the public toilets designed by Austrian architect Hunterdwasser. He chose Kawakawa to retire and die in and his unique toilets have become world famous. They are not only incredibly beautiful, but also the cleanest you’ll ever have the privilege of using!

248kms - Your first impression of the Bay of Islands may be somewhat disappointing, as the islands are not exactly visible – but believe me, they are out there – all 144 of them. The only way to appreciate this aquatic playground is from the water and there are a daunting array of companies willing to take you there. You can fish, kayak, snorkel or swim as much as you like as you cruise and stop at many of the islands tomorrow, often accompanied by dolphins.

Your first visit should be to Waitangi – the birth place of our nation. The historical Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House marks the site of the original treaty signing in 1840 between the Maori people and the British Empire. Drive another 2kms past Paihia. This is the heart of New Zealand’s historical beginnings, with audio-visual displays, an important Marae (Maori meeting house) which is probably the most visited by the Maori today, the beautifully restored Treaty House, and a Waka (Maori war canoe). After your visit and if you have time, take the ferry across to Russell, a quaint little village which was once the capital of New Zealand! It was also once known as the ‘hell hole of the South Pacific’ between 1830 and 1840, when whore-houses abounded and drunken brawls between whalers and seamen were the norm. Today it is a much quieter place!

Day 3 Paihia - Omapere 100kms                                                                                                             ^ Top of page

Our starting point is Paihia wharf. After your Bay of Islands experience, continue north direction Puketona. The first village is Hururu Falls which are themselves rather unspectacular.

14kms – At the T-intersection go left onto SH10, 8 kilometres later turn right onto SH1 and then left onto SH12 after another 8 kilometres, direction Kaikohe -  Northland’s largest service town.

93kms - Opononi was made famous in the fifties by the resident dolphin they named Opo. The Hokianga Harbour is where Maori legend proclaims that the great navigator and explorer Kupe first made land. He discovered New Zealand around 800 AD and named it Aeotearoa, meaning the `Land of the Long White Cloud`.

The next village is Omapere your destination for this evening. There is a wonderful view across the Hokianga Harbour to the giant sand dunes from the Omapere Wharf. It was in these sand dunes that they filmed plates for `Lawrence of Arabia`. Another great place to view the dunes is from the harbour head called Arai-te-uru – take the scenic lookout turnoff another 200m up the hill. From the bottom car-park you could take the Ocean Beach track down to the rocks below, there is a blowhole to the left. However the parking is not safe, be sure to take all valuables! Or visit New Zealand’s most northern brewery in Waimamaku, 12 kilometres further south. The Hokianga Brewery, is probably New Zealand’s smallest as well, but worth a visit if you’re a beer lover – try the dark.

 Day 4 Omapere - Waimauku 272kms                                                                                                            

28kms – Your first stop should be the Waipoua Forest, one of just a few remaining tracks of virgin native kauri forest. It is also home to another 300 species of trees. The main attraction here is the much loved giant kauri Tane Mahuta. At 2000 years old, it is one of earth’s most ancient trees and it stands only a short stroll from the parking. From the picnic area there is a lovely view over the forest’s canopy. Toilets are also available. Only 2kms further along is the parking for the much less touristy giant kauri Te Matua Ngahere (20 minute walk) and the Four Sisters (only 100m from the parking). $2 is asked for parking security – it’s worth it! The forest gives you a fair idea of what the vegetation was like when the first settlers arrived and before they set about stripping the land for the timber and for farming. It has been forbidden to cut down a kauri since 1952 so slowly they are making a comeback.

94kms – Dargaville is proud to be the kumara growing capital. Kumaras are delicious sweet potatoes brought to New Zealand by the early Polynesian settlers. Turn left, direction Auckland and Whangarei. The highway turns south 2 ½ kilometers further, direction Brynderwyn.

139kms – Matakohe is home to the excellent Kauri Museum. Turn right, the museum is one kilometer on the left by the church. This museum is one of the best in New Zealand and definitely worth a visit. The café next door is recommended. After the museum visit, continue east direction Brynderwyn, which isn’t really a place, it is the intersection where SH12 meets SH1. Turn right, direction Wellsford.

195kms – In Wellsford turn right towards Helensville, following the Twin Coast Discovery route.

255kms – Helensville, on the West Coast, lies on the southern reaches of the Kaipara Harbour, which is one of the biggest natural harbours in the world. Dargaville (160 kilometres back) was on the northern reaches of this same harbour. The late 1800’s saw a hive of activity with the logging, sawing and exporting of kauris. Just 30kms due east of here is Orewa on the East Coast, that you passed through on the first day. Follow SH16 direction Auckland until Waimauku.  

271kms - Turn left to Waikoukou Valley, our destination this evening is amongst the vines of Matua Valley winery. The peaceful cottage is modeled on a Victorian miner’s cottage, with French doors opening up to the courtyard and BBQ, with views over the vineyard. A complimentary bottle of Matua wine awaits you, freshly baked bread is delivered daily, as are breakfast ingredients such as fresh coffee, bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes and eggs - and it is just a  5 minute walk to the winery’s restaurant for dinner, which is housed in a 135-year old cottage overlooking the vineyard. You may also be tempted to visit the Spa Di Vine nearby.

Day 5 Waimauku - Auckland 80kms                                                                                                             ^ Top of page

Enjoy a leisurely lie in before heading to Muriwai Beach, a solitary kind of place but well worth the diversion to view the entertaining 2500 gannets in action, even if it isn’t breeding season. Return to Waimauku, where our starting point for today is the intersection SH16 and the road to Muriwai. As you descend towards the beach take the `Gannet Colony` turnoff left - it is an easy 2 minute stroll along flax and pohutakawa lined paths to view the nesting gannets (spring and summer months only). The first path left leads to the best lookout where you can look directly down onto the nest sites and cute little chicks as well as admire the flying skills as the parents come into land with their two-metre wing spans. The stunning views along Muriwai Beach are a bonus.

Return to SH16, and go right. Beesonline is 1.2 kilometres on the right - a honey centre, restaurant and excellent coffee stop. A pot of pohutakawa honey makes a unique gift for those at home. Alternatively the wineries of Cooper`s Creek (3kms left down side road in Huapai), Nobilos or Babich in Kumeu could be visited. But you need to depart by 11.20am to reach the rendezvous point on time for your wild West Coast experience.

Follow the Twin Coast Discovery Route which follows the Scenic Drive south along the Waitakere Ranges ridge. At 51 kilometres there is an excellent lookout on the left awarding you wonderful views over Auckland. You can even see Coromandel and Great Barrier Island in the distance on a clear day. 

54kms – Just after the turnoff to Piha Beach, you will see the Nikau Club Restaurant on your left. Park here, where your local guide will meet you at 12 o`clock to take you on a bush and beach experience, along beautiful wild and deserted beaches. During lunch, discuss with your guide how much or how little you would like to walk. The bush is a protected zone, with hundreds of waterfalls to choose from. The deserted beaches provided the perfect location for the filming of `Piano`. After your tour, continue along the Scenic Drive towards Titirangi - there is another lookout on the right offering great views over Manakau Harbour – Auckland`s second harbour. Just after the lookout, there is the Arataki Visitor Centre (free), if you’d like to learn more about the bush and Waitakere Regional Park. There is another giant frame here to frame your postcard perfect picture.

64kms – You are now arriving in Titirangi, a lovely little village full of cafés and art galleries, so a possibility for dinner. Continue to follow the Twin Coast Discovery Route back to Auckland city.

Day 6 Auckland - Coromandel 176kms

Before you depart for Coromandel, you may like to visit a few attractions you missed on your first day. Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!

118kms – Turn right into Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late `80s this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Follow the signs into the town centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town. If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. $8 Adult/$4 Child. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various miner's tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.

Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! At 142kms, 144kms and 149kms there are places to pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.

157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left and Manaia Harbour to the right. At 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.

171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.

• 4.8kms up this road is the Waiau Waterways Garden and café, where whimsical wonders are worked by water. $10 Adults/$5 Child. If you choose not to go in, the café is still a good option for lunch. They also sell pottery and garden sculptures at studio prices. If you do choose to go in, there are plenty of whacky contraptions to entertain the young and young at heart. There is a swimming hole and free onsite BBQs - bring your own sausages. They also provide umbrellas, plus toilets (a `long-drop` old style toilet – a rarity these days around New Zealand).

• 6.7kms - If you are feeling energetic, there is the walk to Castle Rock. It will take you about 45 minutes to walk up and 30 minutes to walk down. The track is slippery in places and the last few meters is a bit of a scramble holding onto rocks and bits of tree roots to get to the top, but the view is worth it from the top.

• 7.3kms - The small but delightful Waiau Falls – best viewed from below in the bush glade where there is also a swimming hole.

• 7.9kms - Continue another 1/2km to the Kauri Grove parking. This stop is excellent, giving you a real taste for the New Zealand bush without much effort. The bush walk is an easy 10 minute stroll on a level path to 600 year old kauri trees. These trees are magnificent, with native bush wonderfully lush and cool and peaceful. Continue past the first lookout for a lovely circuit past the Siamese Kauri and to the Kauri Grove. The kauris are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years and grow to twice the height of these ones! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. No wonder they call them the giants of the forest and were almost wiped out by the colonials for their timber.

Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight, full of cafés and craft shops.

Day 7 Coromandel - Hahei 80kms 

This morning you could:-

• Go fishing for giant snapper at 7am – the Coromandel Fish and Chip shop will fillet and cook it for you, alternatively if you’d like to enjoy your catch in a lovely restaurant setting, then the Success Café will cook up your catch for you – if it is filleted first. Also try the Smoking Company.

• Or you could play golf on the 9 hole course – green fees are only $15 if you play 9 or 18 holes. The course winds around old mine shafts, with fairways following what once were gold veins bordered by miner’s shacks.

• Most head to the popular Driving Creek Railway, for a unique ride on a narrow gauge train up a ziggy zaggy track that was first built to bring firewood and clay down for the potteries below. Adult $17/Child $15. There is a great view over Coromandel from the “Eye Full Tower” at the top, where they serve train station style tea and coffee.

• Visit the gardens, or pan for gold at the 100 year old Goldfields Centre and Stamper Battery.

0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.  

28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.

41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43.5kms continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.

72kms – Turn left to Hahei and Hot Water Beach. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! You can dig a hole on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.

Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-

• Walk the coastal track which starts on the northern end of Hahei Beach. The views are excellent, it will take you about 1 hour to reach the cove itself.

• Drive up to the car-park via Grange Road, then walk 45 minutes to the cove.

• Take the Hahei sight seeing boat, departing 10am (no time at the beach).

• Or my recommendation is to join the sea kayaking tour departing at 9am tomorrow. $65 for a 3 hour truly kiwi experience, includes top quality kayaks and gear, tuition, and even a coffee brewed for you on the beach while you take a swim. You can order which ever style – Cappuccino, Mochachino, even an L Baccino (long black). Sea kayaking is a `must do` in New Zealand and this is one of the most beautiful places to try it.

Day 8 Hahei - Whakatane 265kms                                                                                                             ^ Top of page

Today there is a long drive to Whakatane. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed. It is OK to do the excellent 9am kayak tour before hitting the road.

0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.

21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.

49kms - State Highway 25 turns left and at 69.3kms go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long, and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding you may wish to stop for coffee.

100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga. Morton Estate Winery on SH2 in Katikati is recommended if you need to stock up on some excellent wines!

159kms – Bethlehem is home to the Mills Reef Winery and up-market restaurant, the turnoff is to the right just as you come into town. This option is for those that left Hahei early this morning. Otherwise continue straight at the roundabout, direction Mount Maunganui. On the expressway, keep following Mt Maunganui, left.

165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.

167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. 3 kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout towards Town Centre –Mt M, and head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may want to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.

Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.

187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the T intersection at 190kms go left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region, watch out for the giant kiwifruit a few kilometres from here. If you’d like to know more about the fruit (and have time) stop for a tour, or just visit their café and souvenir shop where they offer tastings of the original green kiwifruit, Kiwi Gold and the new Baby Kiwi, plus lots of fruit wine and yummy liqueurs.

209kms – SH2 goes left, direction Whakatane. At 243kms SH2 turns right, but continue straight towards Whakatane, your destination for this evening.

Day 9 Whakatane - Rotorua 90kms                                                                                                           ^ Top of page

The highlight in Whakatane is without doubt a visit to White Island, an active volcano 50kms offshore. For me the tour scored a 10 out of 10 for awesomeness. Staring down into the crater’s mouth, stepping around steaming sulphur pools and bubbling mud will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of my life. However the island doesn’t have a wharf, so persons with low mobility are discouraged from taking the trip, also preferably no children under the age of 8 – and only then if they are well behaved and can be trusted not to wander from the path, it is a dangerous environment out there. Covered shoes are also a requirement. Alternatively, there are helicopter tours, with one hour on the island, or fixed wing flight-seeing over the island. You can combine these flights with a trip over Mt Tarawera, an impressive volcano which blew in 1886, that not only split the mountain rather dramatically, but also buried the famous Pink and White terraces, together with three villages and the loss of 153 lives.

While in town take a short drive west to the harbour entrance to see the beautiful statue of Wairaka, a Maori heroin who went against Maori laws to save the drifting waka (canoe). If you’ve seen ‘Whale Rider’, you’ll understand how strongly the Maoris feel about what is ‘tapu’ or out of bounds. She proclaimed ‘Ka Whakatane au I amu’ which means ‘to act like a man’, so the city was named after her heroic acts.

0kms - Departing from the waterfront return to the shops and continue along The Strand, go left at the second roundabout (Commerce Street) then right at the McDonalds (Domain Road) following the signs to Rotorua and Tauranga. Continue straight for 3kms, you then need to go right at the 3^rd roundabout.

7kms – Continue straight, you are now on the SH30 to Rotorua, at 14.5kms follow the highway left. The road skirts Lake Rotoma, Lake Rotoehu, Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotorua which are all flooded volcanic craters. The latter you will probably smell before you see it, as the area is still active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell.

72.7kms - Hells Gate. This is one of your options for this afternoon, if you’d like a mud spa treatment that will leave you glowing. Follow the City Centre signs, this will bring you to the lakefront of Rotorua, your destination for this evening. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:- 

• Kuirua Park has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free! An eruption took place here as recently as 2001 when mud, steam and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land having to be given back to nature.

•  Wander around the original Maori settlement at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore to fill their bath in the out-shed….just follow the steam and stay on the paths!

•  If you have time, soak in the reputedly therapeutic thermal pools at the Polynesian Spa, a delightful but busy public pool. If you wait until tomorrow morning the spa is less crowded - it is a wonderful way to start the day - relaxing with serene views across the lake.

• This evening don’t miss the excellent Tamaki Brothers cultural show followed by a traditional Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus, followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by local Maori.

• The excitement junkies can take the Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha for awesome views, interspersed with hair raising rides on a luge (3 levels available, so suitable for children).

Day 10 Rotorua - Taupo 90kms

The next day you could :-

• Have a game of golf on the beautiful Arikikapakapa course on the southern end of Fenton Street. On the 9 hole course, the usual hazards are not lakes and sand-traps, but rather steam vents and boiling mud pools!

• The Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland is the best thermal reserve in the area and is highly recommended for today.  

• For non-golfers there are several other tourist attractions vying for your dollar. One possibility is to take an awesome flight over Mt Tarawera

• The Te Wairoa buried village could also be visited this morning, or take a 4x4 tour to the top of Mt Tarawera.

• Agrodome’s principle attraction is the Sheep Show, a highly entertaining explanation of sheep and the caring of said sheep – the mainstay of New Zealand’s exports.

• Just before Lake Taupo there are many more attractions!

29.4kms – Heading south towards Taupo, turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!

Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such a kaleidoscope of colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.

Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Waiotapu Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather, and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left.

52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course. The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native Tui birds. 

78.2kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.

• If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater Prawn Park, apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. The informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant, which sadly is not open evenings.

• The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet. There are hands on interpretive displays of local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated earthquake.

• The Honey Hive also has interesting interpretive displays, a glass fronted live beehive and the Beez Kneez Café.

• The Huka Falls are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here the sedate Waikato River is forced between a 15m gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls are much more impressive from below where there is a walkway across the river.

• There is another free attraction called the Craters of the Moon volcanic reserve, that is if you’re not all ‘thermalled out’ yet. To reach the reserve after visiting the falls, return up the hill to Helistar Helicopters, turn left towards the SH1 intersection, then cross straight over. Follow the road for 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40 minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel as if you’re walking on the moon.

Return to SH1, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. The mountains to the south of the lake are popular for skiing in the winter, and walking in the summer. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front and town centre, where most of the eating and accommodation establishments are situated. The trout infested lake is a fisherman's delight!

Day 11 Taupo - Napier 150kms                                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

Depart by 9am if you would like to do the winery tour at 11am in Napier - from the tourist information office traffic lights travel south along the lake front. The highlight of today’s trip is the ever changing scenery – rugged hills, beautiful valleys, vineyard covered plains and huge vistas.

2.8kms – Left, direction Napier onto SH5. The first part of the trip is through the Kaingaroa State Forest, which stretches from Rotorua to the south of Lake Taupo.

54.3kms – The scenic lookout on the left takes you to a view of the Waipunga Falls next to the road, well worthwhile the stop.

65kms – In Tarawera you may wish to swim in the totally untouristy Hot Springs, which are above the Waipunga River. The scenery after this changes rather dramatically over the Titiokua Saddle. 

126kms – Eskdale provides a few coffee stop options as well as the first wineries, many offering tasting and cellar sales. Please note that tastings at wineries are usually free and although not compulsory - purchasing is expected to help offset the costs of paying the knowledgeable and helpful staff. Some wineries do charge a little, which is then deducted from any purchases. The best way to sample is accompanied with a great meal at a table under the vines! The Hawke's Bay region is the North Island’s top wine producing region. A sunny climate, combined with excellent growing conditions as led to many of the wineries earning gold medals at international competitions.

132kms – SH5 meets SH2, turn right. Esk Valley Estate is 2kms further along on the right and is a favourite of mine. It makes a great place to start your own winery tour.

141kms – SH2 turns left, following City Centre and Port. At 143kms go right at the roundabout and keep following City Centre and Tennyson Street. This will bring you to Marine Parade on the waterfront and the tourist office. Please note that the sea is treacherous around here and swimming is usually banned. Napier was almost totally destroyed in the 1931 earthquake, causing a massive rebuilding program throughout the 30’s, resulting in a vibrant city known as the Art Deco capital of the world.

My stay in Napier would go something like this:-

• 11am Church Road Winery and museum tour. The garden restaurant is a superb setting for lunch after your tour, accompanied by a trio of tastings.

• Art Deco fans may want to join the walking tour which departs 2pm from The Art Deco Shop on Tennyson Street.

• The Earthquake walk also departs at 2pm from the tourist office on Marine Parade. The entertaining tour concludes with a fascinating look at photos and memorabilia at the Earthquake gallery.

• Alternatively, wander the streets yourself and visit the excellent Hawke's Bay Museum at the beginning of Marine Parade, where special attention is of course given to the 1931 earthquake with a video of survivors stories, as well as an area dedicated to the first dinosaur discovery in New Zealand and another to local Maori art.

• Marine Parade has several other attractions, including the National Aquarium of New Zealand for viewing of all things fishy; Marineland – essentially a zoo for dolphins, seals and sea lions (you’ll be seeing these in the wild shortly); Ocean Spa for hot-pools and massage therapy by the sea; my favourite is the Opossum World for a fascinating display of gorgeous soft and warm garments made from that introduced pest that all New Zealanders hate. An estimated 70,000,000 possums eat 21,000 tons of foliage each night – an ecological nightmare to our unique and fragile bush! Please do not feel guilty if you happen to run over a few during your travels, we will be eternally grateful!

• Other possibilities this afternoon include the Seahorse Farm; touring the Sheepskin Tannery at 2pm, with purchases at factory prices; visiting more wineries on an organized tour with enthusiastic locals; enjoying the spectacular views and playing golf at one of the world’s top 50 golf courses at Cape Kidnappers …consider doing this option before the winery visits; or joining a tour to the Cape Kidnappers Gannet Colony if you haven't already seen the more accessible colony at Muriwai Beach near Auckland. Best viewed during the nesting season between October and April.

Day 12 Napier - Martinborough 325kms                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

Quite a few kilometers to be driven today, so how about brunch at a world acclaimed winery first. Depart from the tourist office and continue south along Marine Parade and follow the coast.

11.7kms – Just after Clive village, turn left direction Cape Kidnappers and Te Awanga.

23kms – Clifton Beach has some wonderful views of the Cape Kidnappers Cliffs. If you’d like to visit the gannet colony, it is possible to do a 5 hour walk at low tide - it is 8kms one way along the beach; or you can hire kayaks from the Clifton Bay Café; or take the 4x4 tractor tour – departure times are posted daily; or the more comfortable 4x4 overland trip departing 9.30am from Summerlee homestead a few kilometers back. Please note though, if you choose golf or a gannet tour you will not have enough time to visit the excellent Mount Bruce bird sanctuary famous for their kiwis, tuataras, kakas and eels to name just a few of the attractions. For those wishing to play at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers Golf Course, enter at the locked gate opposite the woolshed, 200m before the Clifton Bay Café. The clubhouse is an 8.5kms scenic drive from the gate. 

26kms – Return the way you came. Clearview Estate Winery is one of Hawke's Bay’s best wineries, with an excellent restaurant to match. Open at 10am for coffee, wine or brunch under the vines. Continue back the way you came, through Te Awanga and Haumoana.

28.7kms – The small and privately owned British Car Museum is owned by an eccentric collector who is proud to show off  his old favourites. One kilometre further, turn left at the egg farm onto Park Hill Road, then right onto Raymond Road.

31.4kms – Turn left onto Tukituki Road. Follow this pretty valley until the bridge. The outcrop on the right is called ‘The sleeping giant’, or Te Mata Peak – your next stop.

43.4kms – Turn right over the bridge, and at 49kms left direction Havelock. Along this road are several more wineries, including the world renowned Te Mata Estate on the right. The Arataki Honey Centre (turn right after a few kilometres onto Arataki Road) is also a possibility for all things buzzy, including a huge working hive behind glass, displays, lots of yummy honey and innovative gifts.

52kms – Turn left, following the signs to Te Mata Peak. It’s just 6kms to the very top for some awe-inspiring views of Hawke's Bay. Tandem paragliding is a favourite past time from this spot. From here it is a 2 hour drive to Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre, recommended not only for the endangered birds, but also for a late lunch. Return down the hill, turn right at the ‘Give Way’ onto Simla Ave, then left at the roundabout.

65kms – In Havelock at the main Napier Road roundabout follow left to Wellington and after the Havelock shops veer off to the right, following Te Aute Road to rejoin SH2 south.

If you have time, Norsewood is home of Norsewear for natural woolen clothing popular with trampers and farmers alike from all over the world. The factory shop is open 7 days a week. Many Scandinavians immigrated to the area, the Norwegians to Norsewood, the Danish to Dannevirke.

200kms – In Woodville SH2 turns left to Masterton. On the banks of the Mangatainoka River 13 kms later you can’t miss the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may want to visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.

258kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre is New Zealand’s best for viewing Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DoC (Department of Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here - there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takehe or Tuataras.

• Adults $8, U17 free 9am – 4.30pm (winter 4pm).

• 1.30pm feeding of the huge 80 year old wild eels, who instinctively seem to know the time.

• 3pm Kaka feeding, a cheeky and raucous native bush parrot, cousin to the more noious Kea that lives in the mountains.

• There is also a beautiful walk through ancient forest of Rimu, Rata and Kamahi, a living reminder of what existed before the colonization by man.

281kms – Masterton. At the first roundabout, turn right direction Wellington and continue to follow the signs through town. Next you come to Carterton, home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua is unique to New Zealand, the informative display explains how they are caught from deep waters with snorkels and how the inner shell casing is ground down to reveal the beautifully patterned colours. OK agreed, some of the items on sale are painfully kitsch, but somebody must buy them otherwise they wouldn’t continue to make them. However many other items are unique and useful, not to mention stunningly beautiful, so will make a perfect souvenir from New Zealand.

304kms – Greytown is a pretty village full of Victorian buildings and quaint antique shops. Just after the village on Wood Street is the Puzzlewood, Adults $7, Child $4 where you will find many puzzling activities for young and old, all made of wood naturally.

307kms – Turn left, direction Martinborough, a unique wine village and your destination for this evening. There are 20+ boutique wineries specializing in Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines, many within staggering distance of the the Village Square, which is laid out in the shape of the Union Jack. The wine centre on the square is the best place to start your sampling, followed by a memorable meal at any one of the excellent cafés.

Day 13 Martinborough - Wellington 205kms                                                                                                    ^ Top of page

Today I’m taking you to the very edges of earth to the wild southern coast of the North Island, visiting Cape Palliser’s candy striped lighthouse, the sea-lion colony, the baby bulldozers at Ngawi and the Putangirua Pinnacles. There are no shops or restaurants, so you need to take some food and refreshments with you! The highlight in my eyes is definitely the walk to the Pinnacles, an unusual valley of scree that has been compacted and lifted out of the sea, rising to a height of 200 metres. The erosion of the land over the millennia has left fingers of gravel spires and turrets topped with a harder stone which provide some, let’s say, interesting views. From below you feel the full force of what nature can inflict on this earth, from above you get a full picture of the valley – and it’s awesome. The walk is a bit of a scramble to say the least over river boulders, debris and fossils, but the adventure is more than worth the small effort. We met some 70+ year olds the day my young family and I made the walk and they were bubbling with enthusiasm. So I have decided to recommend this to all, because if they can do it as well as my young children, then I’m sure you can too! 

0kms – Departing from the Village Square, head south along Jellicoe Street, direction Lake Ferry.

32.5kms – Left, direction Cape Palliser. The Putangirua Pinnacles Reserve car park is on the left at 46.4kms. The walk will take you about 3 hours if you walk to the base of the Pinnacles, then up to the lookout and back down the bush track.

You need to follow the stream for 35 – 45 minutes, until the 1^st streambed branching off to the left. When we did it, most of the track was washed away and we had to make several crossings of the stream. After we visited the base of the Pinnacles, we returned down the smaller streambed to the orange marker 100m before the bottom – this leads to the steep track that will take you up to the lookout….strenuous, but wow, what a view. We then continued on the bush walk back to the car park. Admittedly it’s a bit of an adventure getting there, but as my husband declared " it’s a world wonder”. After the walk, departing from the car park, turn left.

65kms – Ngawi is home to the baby bulldozers with imaginative names such as “Tinky Winky” and “Babe”. Their owners are crayfishermen and fishermen, the only source of income in the area.

72kms – Cape Palliser. The rocks and beach between Mangatoetoe and the lighthouse are home to thousands of sea-lions, a seemingly harmless blob of blubber. You can easily approach within metres, but be sure not to stand between the animal and their escape route to the sea. Return along the coast.

112kms – Right, direction Martinborough and at 125kms, left direction Featherston.

154kms – Featherston is the first opportunity for a café stop, however there is a better choice with a view in another 10 kilometres if you can wait. The town housed New Zealand’s largest army training base during WW1, with about 35000 troops passing through the camp before they had to walk the Rimutaka Hill to Wellington to be shipped overseas. Quite a formidable feat you’ll realize once you’ve negotiated the tortuous “hill” yourself. Messines in Belgium is twinned with this little town because New Zealand troops recaptured it from the Germans in June 1917.

165kms – The Summit car park and café is on the right – pass over the median strip with care! There is a great view of Lake Wairarapa and the coast to the east and of the Rimutaka Incline to the west, where the specially built Fell Engine train climbed the steep 265m slopes. From here it’s all downhill, literally, to Wellington. If you do not require your hire-car tomorrow, then consider returning it today - you will be picking up a new one in Picton.

Day 14 Wellington

Day off from driving! There are numerous attractions to be enjoyed today :-

• The main attraction here is the free National Museum of Te Papa. You can easily spend hours engrossed here - if only you visit the excellent Maori heritage section.

• The best place to start your visit to Wellington is Mount Victoria Lookout for awesome views of the city and harbour.

• Although Wellington is not the largest city, it does lie central to the two islands and is therefore the capital. The Parliamentary District is interesting to wander around, there is a free tour of Parliament House, our Beehive houses various government offices.

• Be sure to take the Cable Car up the steep hill behind the city centre and wander back down through the magnificent Botanical Gardens.

• Wellington is home of the Weta Workshop, makers of the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. There are several guided day tours on offer to the main filming sites in and around the city.

• Play golf at Paraparaumu, just north of Wellington on SH1. This is another internationally recognized course on the 'Top 100 Golf Courses in the World'  list.

• Stop off at Titahi Bay on your return to the city for a meal at the award winning Oceana Café. Exit the motorway, direction Porirua and Titahi Bay. There are several roundabouts through the shops – just follow the signs for Titahi Bay and travel along the northwest side of the lagoon. Follow the road to the end, you can even park on the beach! Titahi Bay has safe swimming, with lovely views of the South Island in the distance.

Day 15 Wellington - Marlborough Sounds...internal flight                                                                           ^ Top of page

Today you cross to the South Island on the 8am flight. Although this is a commercial flight, it can easily be described as a scenic flight over the Marlborough Sounds! A sound is a flooded river valley as opposed to the flooded glacial valleys called fiords (the 'sounds' in the south of Westland are misnamed). On arrival a free shuttle will whisk you to the Picton wharf to connect with the water-taxi to the stunning Queen Charlotte Wilderness Park. Today I recommend you disembark at Ship Cove and walk the rest of the way - your luggage will be dropped at the Lodge for you. These are just a few of the rave reviews the lodge has received :-

• "One of the most precious places on earth, hosted by wonderful people, surrounded in peace and beauty. A haven to be revisited again and again...”
  Sinead, Ireland

• "This is the best accommodation in the world. I’ll come here certainly with my future wife as a honeymoon” Kohei, Japan

• “Truly one of the only places left on earth that is paradise” John, Ireland

Day 16 Marlborough Sounds                                                                                             

Today you can walk to your hearts content, fish, collect mussels, visit nesting penguins or wander deserted golden beaches. This is a place where the passing traffic is likely to be a pod of orcas on their way south for their summer holiday, or dolphins leaping with joy. Noise here is not the sound of cars going past or the neighbours squabbling, but the sound of bellbirds and tuis singing and the smells are of fresh salt air mixed with the ancient odour of the bush. This is New Zealand at her very best.

Day 17 Picton - Kaikoura 155kms                                                                                                                  

This morning the water-taxi will deposit you back to Picton at 12.45pm, pick up your new hire-car and drive south on SH1. Alternatively the beautiful but winding coastal road to Port Underwood and the scenic bluffs of Rarangi is recommended - drive north past the airport to Waikawa. The loop road rejoins SH1 in Tuamarina.

29kms - In Blenheim I recommend you stop and visit a world-renowned winery - the Montana Brancott Winery is New Zealand's largest wine producer and just past Blenheim on SH1. Cloudy Bay on Jackson's Road is an internationally famous label, as is Hunters Wines on Rapaura Road. More info on  Marlborough Wines

Continue south on SH1 to Kaikoura, your destination for this evening. The rugged coast is home to a diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range. Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks, freshly cooked crayfish is usually available from a roadside shop housed in a caravan. A deep-sea canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales. However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator. Sperm whales can dive to a depth of 2kms and stay submerged for up to 2 hrs and can swim at 40km/h. Also, did you know that dolphins do not breath automatically as humans do so when they sleep only half the brain sleeps at a time.

Just as the road hits the coast, the Store Cafe is worth a stop for refreshments on their terrace by the sea. They also own an excellent garden up on the ridge that can be visited. Your first stop in Kaikoura should be the Lookout just off Scarborough Terrace. From here you can view the azure-blue waters around Kaikoura Peninsula bordered by the mountain backdrop behind. The excellent 2 hour Peninsula Walkway at the head of the peninsula takes you along the shoreline and back over the cliffs.

Day 18 Kaikoura - Christchurch  200kms                                                                                                   ^ Top of page

After your morning excursion to view the whales or swim with the dolphins, drive down the east coast to Christchurch.

68kms  - Turn left to Gore Bay to visit the uniquely eroded (think organ pipes) Cathedral Cliffs. Continue on this loop road which will rejoin SH1 in Domett.

The Waipara Valley is a sunny and well drained valley and is fast becoming the new vine growing region. I can recommend a stop at the family-owned Pegasus Bay winery, turn left 4.5 kilometres after the village. Try their generous platter loaded with cheeses and locally caught salmon and duck accompanied with some excellent award-winning wines on the lawn.

Christchurch is New Zealand's second largest city which sprawls across the Canterbury Plains towards the Southern Alps. The main attractions here are the English style gardens and parks, the city even has its very own Avon River on which one can punt. It has an English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites evident everywhere. The best way to see the city is on the tour aboard a beautifully restored tram which provides commentary about the various sites along the way.

Other attractions in Christchurch worth considering later this afternoon or tomorrow morning are :-

• Taking the Port Hills Gondola for stunning views. Return by gondola, walk on the Bridle Path, or descend by mountain bike

• Visit the Canterbury Museum (free) for their informative Antarctic display and impressive Maori collection

• The excellent International Antarctic Centre near the airport is where you can experience all there is to know about the icy continent

• Mona Vale is a beautiful Edwardian-style homestead set amongst 5 1/2 ha of beautiful gardens.

• Play golf at Clearwater Estate, an extremely beautiful 72 hole championship course. The Russley Course is one of the "Top 100 Golf Courses in the World"

Day 19 Christchurch - Mt Cook 330kms                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

0kms - Follow SH1 through Ashburton and soon after passing over the Rangitata River, turn right onto SH79, direction Geraldine and Fairlie

Geraldine is a great place for a coffee and has a few attractions worth stopping for. You can choose from:-

• A larger than fair smattering of arts and crafts galleries

• The Vintage Car Club and Machinery Museum has a sizable collection of cars, tractors and aircraft.

• The Giant Jersey has, you guessed it, the largest jersey in the world, plus lots of woolly stuff on sale.

• Barker's Berry Barn is a specialty shop, where you'll find a huge range of fruity liqueurs and wines, plus unique gift and gourmet items.

• Kiwi Country is purpose built for the tourist buses and is full of the usual souvenirs. However it does have excellent coffees and toilet facilities.

182kms - Turn right onto SH8 to Lake Tekapo. The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass. You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, a flat expanse of tussock grasslands and home to New Zealand’s highest mountain Aoraki (or Mt Cook as it is known) plus the longest glacier Tasman and sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the Southern Alps - and it bears little resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.

225kms – The village at Lake Tekapo is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog and grabbing a coffee. The gorgeous turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles suspended in the water.

240kms – Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of Mt Aoraki across the opaque Lake Pukaki.

270kms – Turn right onto SH80. Lord of the Rings fans may prefer to stay in Twizel to view where they filmed the massive Battle of the Pelennor Fields on the grassy fields to the left of this road, however it really would be sacrilege not to make the 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman and Hooker Glaciers. The drive encompasses world-class scenery at its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the Mount Cook National Park. On arrival you can choose from:-

• Several different alpine walks with wonderful views.

• Scenic flights either by ski plane or helicopter, guaranteed to be THE trip of your lifetime!

• Glacier Explorer Trips involves walking to Tasman Lake and the taking an informative boat ride to the face of the advancing glacier

• Heli-skiing on the upper Tasman Glacier.

• Eat, drink and just relax in the Hermitage while enjoying the incredible views that lie before you.

Day 20 Mt Cook - Wanaka 212kms                                                                                                                  ^ Top of page

You can stay as long as you like before heading off to Wanaka. I recommend the Sealy Tarns Track, or for the fit it is possible to go all the way to the Muller Hut and back in one day - the best day walk I've ever done! The walk offers a gargantuan vista of Mount Aoraki, the glaciers and the exotically coloured lakes below. This is New Zealand at its very best. Please note appropriate clothing and footwear is required - storms and snow can be upon you within a few hours, even in the summer, so always be prepared for the worst.

Alternatively there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby). There is the Pelennor Fields tour - probably guided by a Rohirrim or Gondorian extra, the tour also gives a highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming. Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way down.

0kms – Return along SH80 to Twizel, head south on SH8 via the scenic Lindis Pass. Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.

174kms - Just after Tarras, turn right onto SH8A to Wanaka. The tranquil lake has picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand!

Day 21 Wanaka                                                                                                                                                 

One of the best short walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier, and its FREE. The walk will take you up through beautiful rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the face of the glacier. Wanaka is also the best place to try tandem sky-diving! Or how about a 4x4 quad bike tour on a sheep farm with great views. The local ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer - take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route down on a mountain bike. Rally car enthusiasts should try the Mountain Monster Rally, where you are strapped in the passenger seat while the expert takes on a thrilling off-road circuit at a very fast pace! Trout fishing and skiing are the locals other favourites. Glendhu Bay is a sheltered and picturesque bay, particularly in autumn when the exotic trees provide rich colour for your postcard perfect photo with the mountains behind. Just beyond is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular Motatapu Gorge. At the northern reaches of Lake Wanaka in a little place called Makaroa you can try the Siberia Experience of 3 thrills in one day – fly into the Mt Aspiring National Park (the Misty Mountains in LOTR), hike/tramp over the hill to the river and jet-boat back out. Wow!

Day 22 Wanaka - Glenorchy 130kms                                                                                                                ^ Top of page

I recommend the scenic Crown Range Route via the old gold mining towns of Cardrona and Arrowtown. It is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th century. Before you drive up over the 1120m high pass, you may like to visit the old Cardrona Hotel - you will be forgiven if you think it was used as the Prancing Pony in Bree in the LOTR trilogy.

The views from the top of the pass are stunning. Take your time coming down the zig-zag road! At the bottom, turn right to the pretty tree-lined town of Arrowtown - another former gold mining settlement. Wander amongst the historic cottages, visit the reconstructed Chinese Settlement (the Chinese were subjected to many prejudices so had their own settlement) and wander along the path by the river to view where Isildur lost his life when attacked by the Orcs in the Trilogy.

Return to SH6, where you can go right to Queenstown, or left to the Kawarau Gorge. The Kawarau River Bridge is home to A.J. Hackett's very first bungee jumping platform - this is where you get to tie a huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the river, if you dare - or just have fun watching the others. Just after the bridge you can turn right to Chard Farm and drive just a short distance up this road to see the location of the Pillars of the Kings on the River Anduin (LOTR). A few more kilometres along the gorge you will find the excellent winery and restaurant at Gibbston Valley Wines.

Return the way you came and continue on to Queenstown. However our destination this evening is further along, at the far end of Lake Wakitipu where you'll find a little place called Paradise. From here the most scenic jet-boat ride in the world (another New Zealand invention) will take you tomorrow on a thrilling ride up the Dart River into the very heart of the Mt Aspiring National Park - there is an option to raft back down....amazing! Horse-trekking through the 'forests of Lothlorian' is also recommended.

Day 23 Glenorchy  - Queenstown 45kms                                                                                                          

After your morning thrill up the Dart River, we head back to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the World! The sheer breadth of tourist activities available here is impossible to list, however the ' in-thing' at the moment are tours that have anything to do with the numerous Lord of the Rings filming locations. One of the most spectacular and affordable scenic flights in the world is the 2 hour Trilogy Trail, with plenty of commentary and behind the scenes 'anecdotes' along the way. In winter the resorts fill up with skiers.

The beautiful resort of Queenstown was originally named as 'fit for a Queen'. It lies on Lake Wakatipu, a glacial lake with an unusual rhythmic rise and fall of 12cm in its water level, every five minutes - Bob's Cove is the best place to view this phenomenon. A Maori myth says it is the beating of a monster's heart lying in the depths of Lake Wakatipu!

This evening ride the Skyline Gondola to take in the awesome views - best viewed at sunset when the Remarkables Range on the other side of Lake Wakitipu glow in golden light. In winter the view is even better with the mountains covered in snow!

Day 24 Queenstown - Milford Sound 300kms                                                                                                    ^ Top of page

Milford Sound is quite simply unparalleled to anything in this world. The awesome cruise on the fiord includes countless waterfalls tumbling hundreds of metres down sheer cliffs, mountains rising straight out of the sea, fur seals and (usually) dolphins. A 'Sound' is a flooded river valley, but these are flooded glacial valleys with sheer sided walls that plunge hundreds of metres under water as well as above - so they are misnamed. Don't forget the insect repellent as the sand-flies in Milford are not only a menace, but practically man-eating! Plus a rain coat - the area receives 12,000mm of rain per year per square metre - so chances are high that you will see rain!

0kms - Drive 6 kilometres north to the SH6 junction and turn right, direction Lumsden and Te Anau. The trip to Milford will take you at least 5 hours. You could take the road to the Remarkables Ski-field soon after this turnoff, for the best view of Queenstown at the Remarkables Lookout.

186kms - Te Anau is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park - 1,250,000 uninhabited hectares of stunning wilderness. Fiordland has a primeval rugged landscape, largely untouched by humans apart from incursions by tourists at Milford and Doubtful Sounds and a few fishermen in other fiords. It was declared a World Heritage Area on account of the outstanding geological features and exceptional beauty, the jewel in the crown being Mitre Peak in Milford Sound. However many argue that Doubtful Sound is even more spectacular. Te Anau is also the base for many multi-day mountain hikes. It is also where you should fill up with petrol, as there are no shops or facilities in Milford.

As you travel the Milford Sound Road to the Homer Tunnel there are several opportunities to stop and take photos - as you will probably be squashed between a convoy of tourist buses, you'll know where to stop. If you prefer not to drive, it is possible to take the coach which departs Te Anau at 12.30pm and drops you back there the next day also at 12.30pm. The over-night cruise departs at 4.30pm, parking is available 10 minutes walk from the Visitor Terminal. Once the masses depart on their buses, you will finally experience the sound of silence on board your boat cruising this eighth wonder of the world - kayaking with the dolphins under the many waterfalls is simply paradise.

Day 25 Milford Sound - Queenstown 300kms

Return to Queenstown the way you came and enjoy a little more of what is on offer there such as :-

• Driving up to the Remarkables Lookout for the best view of Queenstown
• Take the plunge and try a bungee jump, or just have fun watching others do it
• Steam along Lake Wakitipu on the old steamer TSS Earnslaw
• Visit Walter Peak Station on the other side of the lake for an insight into high-country sheep farming
• Learn to fly-fish in the trout infested lakes and rivers
• Play golf on one of the most magically located courses in the world
• Visit Skippers Canyon and the remote Macetown goldfields on a 4x4 tour
• Visit a vineyard and try their wines of course - you could even leave the car behind and go by jet-boat
• etc, etc, etc............

Day 26 Queenstown ......internal or international flight

If your flight back to Auckland or to Australia is in the afternoon or this evening then you will have time to enjoy a bit more of Queenstown.