22 Days in New Zealand                                                                                                                                   HOME

If you are lucky enough to have three weeks to enjoy New Zealand, you have time to drive from Auckland all the way down to Queenstown. From Auckland you drive south via the awesome Coromandel Peninsula to Rotorua and Taupo to take in a little Maori culture and enjoy the volcanic area. You then continue south to Wellington via the wine growing regions around Napier and Martinborough. The South Island section begins with some relaxing time in the stunningly beautiful Marlborough Sounds before heading down the east coast to Kaikoura (where you can join a whale or dolphin spotting excursion), Hanmer Springs and Christchurch. You then follow the Southern Alps all the way to Mt Cook, Wanaka, Queenstown, Paradise (yes, it does exist) and our most beautiful attraction - the Milford Sound. This itinerary offers much variety with almost equal time in the North Island and in the South Island. However choosing will still be difficult as there are so many choices, particularly in Wanaka and Queenstown. Hire a car, or your very own  Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. Price per day for a guided chauffeur-driven tour is NZD $445 per day, this includes transport of up to 7 persons, fuel and the chauffeur's accommodation and daily expenses. Gratuities are always appreciated.

Day 1 Auckland - Auckland

Our Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. First stop should be the volcanic cone of Mt Eden for a panoramic view of the city and harbours to orientate your bearings before we start the tour. Head north over the Harbour Bridge to pretty Orewa Beach and Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast, followed by morning tea in the original Bohemian settlement of Puhoi. We then head inland past wineries and orchards to the wild black-sand beaches of the West Coast. The gannet colony at Muriwai is a must see, as not only will the cute chicks and the flying skills of the adults keep you mesmerized, but the sweeping views along the surfing beaches north will certainly blow any jet-lag away. Heading south again lunch can be enjoyed at the Bees Online cafe where several honey orientated products are on sale, or wine lovers should take advantage of having a chauffeur and dine in a restaurant under the vines of a world class winery. After lunch I recommend a walk in the lush bush of the Waitakere Ranges to a secluded waterfall or along a deserted beach, such as the one made famous in Jane Campion's movie The Piano. Return to Auckland along the Scenic Drive and take a ferry ride to the old suburb of Devonport - Auckland is known as the City of Sails, so a venture out onto the water is an essential part of visiting Auckland. Take the tour or wander up North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean, clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham Beach. On your return to the Ferry Building enjoy the sunset and dinner in the revolving restaurant of the Sky Tower.

Day 2 Auckland - Coromandel 176kms

Before you depart for Coromandel, you may like to visit a few attractions you missed yesterday. The Waterfront is where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own. The revamped old homes of Parnell are a shopper's dream with brick paved alleyways full of boutique clothes stores, art galleries and specialty shops.

0kms - Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!

113kms – Turn left towards Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late `80s this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Follow the signs into the town centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town. If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. $8 Adult/$4 Child. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.

Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! At 142kms, 144kms, and 149kms there are places to pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.

157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left and Manaia Harbour to the right. At 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.

171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.

Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight, full of cafés and craft shops.

Day 3 Coromandel - Hahei 80kms 

This morning you could:-

0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.  

28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.

41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43.5kms continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.

72kms – Turn left to Hahei and Hot Water Beach. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! You can dig a hole on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.

Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-

Day 4 Hahei - Rotorua 294kms                                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

Today there is a long drive to Rotorua. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed.

0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.

21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.

49kms - State Highway 25 turns left. At 69.3kms go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long, and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding and you may wish to stop for coffee.

100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga. Morton Estate Winery on SH2 in Katikati is recommended if you need to stock up on some excellent wines!

159kms – Bethlehem is home to the Mills Reef Winery and up-market restaurant, the turnoff is to the right just as you come into town. This option is for those that left Hahei early this morning. Otherwise continue straight at the roundabout, direction Mount Maunganui. On the expressway, keep following Mt Maunganui, left.

165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.

167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. 3 kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout towards Town Centre –Mt M, and head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may want to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.

Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.

187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the ' T ' intersection turn left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region, watch out for the giant kiwifruit a few kilometres from here. If you’d like to know more about the fruit (and have time) stop for a tour, or just visit their café and souvenir shop where they offer tastings of the original green kiwifruit, Kiwi Gold and the new Baby Kiwi, plus lots of fruit wine and yummy liqueurs. At 209kms follow SH33, direction Rotorua.

As you come into Rotorua, follow the city centre signs around the lake. You may smell Rotorua before seeing it, as the area is still very active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell. The city lies on a beautiful lake, actually a flooded volcanic crater - the surrounding hills are the remains of the rim of the giant volcano. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:- 

Day 5 Rotorua - Taupo 90kms

The next day you could :-

29.4kms – Heading south towards Taupo, turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!

Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such a kaleidoscope of colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’.  The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.

Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Waiotapu Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather, and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left.

52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course. The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native Tui birds. 

78.2kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.

Return to SH1, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. The mountains to the south of the lake are popular for skiing in the winter, and walking in the summer. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front  where most of the eating and sleeping establishments are situated. The trout infested lake and rivers are a fisherman's delight!

Day 6 Taupo - Napier 150kms                                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

Depart by 9am if you would like to do the winery tour at 11am in Napier - from the tourist information office traffic lights travel south along the lake front. The highlight of today’s trip is the ever changing scenery – rugged hills, beautiful valleys, vineyard covered plains and huge vistas.

2.8kms – Left, direction Napier onto SH5. The first part of the trip is through the Kaingaroa State Forest, which stretches from Rotorua to the south of Lake Taupo.

54.3kms – The scenic lookout on the left takes you to a view of the Waipunga Falls next to the road, well worthwhile the stop.

65kms – In Tarawera you may wish to swim in the totally untouristy Hot Springs, which are above the Waipunga River. The scenery after this changes rather dramatically over the Titiokua Saddle. 

126kms – Eskdale provides a few coffee stop options as well as the first wineries, many offering tasting and cellar sales. Please note that tastings at wineries are usually free and although not compulsory - purchasing is expected to help offset the costs of paying the knowledgeable and helpful staff. Some wineries do charge a little, which is then deducted from any purchases. The best way to sample is accompanied with a great meal at a table under the vines! The Hawke's Bay region is the North Island’s top wine producing region. A sunny climate, combined with excellent growing conditions as led to many of the wineries earning gold medals at international competitions.

132kms – SH5 meets SH2, turn right. Esk Valley Estate is 2kms further along on the right and is a favourite of mine. It makes a great place to start your own winery tour.

141kms – SH2 turns left, following City Centre and Port. At 143kms go right at the roundabout and keep following City Centre and Tennyson Street. This will bring you to Marine Parade on the waterfront and the tourist office. Please note that the sea is treacherous around here and swimming is usually banned. Napier was almost totally destroyed in the 1931 earthquake, causing a massive rebuilding program throughout the 30’s, resulting in a vibrant city known as the Art Deco capital of the world.

My stay in Napier would go something like this:-

 Day 7 Napier - Martinborough 325kms                                                                                                            ^ Top of page

Quite a few kilometers to be driven today, so how about brunch at a world acclaimed winery first. Depart from the tourist office and continue south along Marine Parade and follow the coast.

11.7kms – Just after Clive village, turn left direction Cape Kidnappers and Te Awanga.

23kms – Clifton Beach has some wonderful views of the Cape Kidnappers Cliffs. If you’d like to visit the gannet colony, it is possible to do a 5 hour walk at low tide - it is 8kms one way along the beach; or you can hire kayaks from the Clifton Bay Café; or take the 4x4 tractor tour – departure times are posted daily; or the more comfortable 4x4 overland trip departing 9.30am from Summerlee homestead a few kilometers back. Please note though, if you choose golf or a gannet tour you will not have enough time to visit the excellent Mount Bruce bird sanctuary famous for their kiwis, tuataras, kakas and eels to name just a few of the attractions. For those wishing to play at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers Golf Course, enter at the locked gate opposite the woolshed, 200m before the Clifton Bay Café. The clubhouse is an 8.5kms scenic drive from the gate. 

26kms – Return the way you came. Clearview Estate Winery is one of Hawke's Bay’s best wineries, with an excellent restaurant to match. Open at 10am for coffee, wine or brunch under the vines. Continue back the way you came, through Te Awanga and Haumoana.

28.7kms – The small and privately owned British Car Museum is owned by an eccentric collector who is proud to show off  his old favourites. One kilometre further, turn left at the egg farm onto Park Hill Road, then right onto Raymond Road.

31.4kms – Turn left onto Tukituki Road. Follow this pretty valley until the bridge. The outcrop on the right is called ‘The sleeping giant’, or Te Mata Peak – your next stop.

43.4kms – Turn right over the bridge, and at 49kms left direction Havelock. Along this road are several more wineries, including the world renowned Te Mata Estate on the right. The Arataki Honey Centre (turn right after a few kilometres onto Arataki Road) is also a possibility for all things buzzy, including a huge working hive behind glass, displays, lots of yummy honey and innovative gifts.

52kms – Turn left, following the signs to Te Mata Peak. It’s just 6kms to the very top for some awe-inspiring views of Hawke's Bay. Tandem paragliding is a favourite past time from this spot. From here it is a 2 hour drive to Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre, recommended not only for the endangered birds, but also for a late lunch. Return down the hill, turn right at the ‘Give Way’ onto Simla Ave, then left at the roundabout.

65kms – In Havelock at the main Napier Road roundabout follow left to Wellington and after the Havelock shops veer off to the right, following Te Aute Road to rejoin SH2 south.

If you have time, Norsewood is home of Norsewear for natural woolen clothing popular with trampers and farmers alike from all over the world. The factory shop is open 7 days a week. Many Scandinavians immigrated to the area, the Norwegians to Norsewood, the Danish to Dannevirke.

200kms – In Woodville SH2 turns left to Masterton. On the banks of the Mangatainoka River 13 kms later you can’t miss the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may want to visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.

258kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre is New Zealand’s best for viewing Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DoC (Department of Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here - there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takehe or Tuataras.

281kms – Masterton. At the first roundabout, turn right direction Wellington and continue to follow the signs through town. Next you come to Carterton, home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua is unique to New Zealand, the informative display explains how they are caught from deep waters with snorkels and how the inner shell casing is ground down to reveal the beautifully patterned colours. OK agreed, some of the items on sale are painfully kitsch, but somebody must buy them otherwise they wouldn’t continue to make them. However many other items are unique and useful, not to mention stunningly beautiful, so will make a perfect souvenir from New Zealand.

304kms – Greytown is a pretty village full of Victorian buildings and quaint antique shops. Just after the village on Wood Street is the Puzzlewood, Adults $7, Child $4 where you will find many puzzling activities for young and old, all made of wood naturally.

307kms – Turn left, direction Martinborough, a unique wine village and your destination for this evening. There are 20+ boutique wineries specializing in Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines, many within staggering distance of the the Village Square, which is laid out in the shape of the Union Jack. The wine centre on the square is the best place to start your sampling, followed by a memorable meal at any one of the excellent cafés.

Day 8 Martinborough - Wellington 205kms                                                                                                    ^ Top of page

Today I’m taking you to the very edges of earth to the wild southern coast of the North Island, visiting Cape Palliser’s candy striped lighthouse, the sea-lion colony, the baby bulldozers at Ngawi and the Putangirua Pinnacles. There are no shops or restaurants, so you need to take some food and refreshments with you! The highlight in my eyes is definitely the walk to the Pinnacles, an unusual valley of scree that has been compacted and lifted out of the sea, rising to a height of 200 metres. The erosion of the land over the millennia has left fingers of gravel spires and turrets topped with a harder stone which provide some, let’s say, interesting views. From below you feel the full force of what nature can inflict on this earth, from above you get a full picture of the valley – and it’s awesome. The walk is a bit of a scramble to say the least over river boulders, debris and fossils, but the adventure is more than worth the small effort. We met some 70+ year olds the day my young family and I made the walk and they were bubbling with enthusiasm. So I have decided to recommend this to all, because if they can do it as well as my young children, then I’m sure you can too! 

0kms – Departing from the Village Square, head south along Jellicoe Street, direction Lake Ferry.

32.5kms – Left, direction Cape Palliser. The Putangirua Pinnacles Reserve car park is on the left at 46.4kms. The walk will take you about 3 hours if you walk to the base of the Pinnacles, then up to the lookout and back down the bush track.

You need to follow the stream for 35 – 45 minutes, until the 1st streambed branching off to the left. When we did it, most of the track was washed away and we had to make several crossings of the stream. After we visited the base of the Pinnacles, we returned down the smaller streambed to the orange marker 100m before the bottom – this leads to the steep track that will take you up to the lookout….strenuous, but wow, what a view. We then continued on the bush walk back to the car park. Admittedly it’s a bit of an adventure getting there, but as my husband declared " it’s a world wonder”. After the walk, departing from the car park, turn left.

65kms – Ngawi is home to the baby bulldozers with imaginative names such as “Tinky Winky” and “Babe”. Their owners are crayfishermen and fishermen, the only source of income in the area.

72kms – Cape Palliser. The rocks and beach between Mangatoetoe and the lighthouse are home to thousands of sea-lions, a seemingly harmless blob of blubber. You can easily approach within metres, but be sure not to stand between the animal and their escape route to the sea. Return along the coast.

112kms – Right, direction Martinborough and at 125kms, left direction Featherston.

154kms – Featherston is the first opportunity for a café stop, however there is a better choice with a view in another 10 kilometres if you can wait. The town housed New Zealand’s largest army training base during WW1, with about 35000 troops passing through the camp before they had to walk the Rimutaka Hill to Wellington to be shipped overseas. Quite a formidable feat you’ll realize once you’ve negotiated the tortuous “hill” yourself. Messines in Belgium is twinned with this little town because New Zealand troops recaptured it from the Germans in June 1917.

165kms – The Summit car park and café is on the right – pass over the median strip with care! There is a great view of Lake Wairarapa and the coast to the east and of the Rimutaka Incline to the west, where the specially built Fell Engine train climbed the steep 265m slopes. From here it’s all downhill, literally, to Wellington. If you do not require your hire-car tomorrow, then consider returning it today - you will be picking up a new one in Picton.

Day 9 Wellington

Day off from driving! There are numerous attractions to be enjoyed today :-

Day 10 Wellington - Marlborough Sounds                                                                                                   ^ Top of page

Today you cross to the South Island on the 8am flight. Although this is a commercial flight, it can easily be described as a scenic flight over the Marlborough Sounds! A sound is a flooded river valley as opposed to the flooded glacial valleys called fiords (the 'sounds' in the south of Westland are misnamed). On arrival a free shuttle will whisk you to the Picton wharf to connect with the water-taxi to the stunning Queen Charlotte Wilderness Park. Today I recommend you disembark at Ship Cove and walk the rest of the way - your luggage will be dropped at the Lodge for you. These are just a few of the rave reviews the lodge has received :-

Day 11 Marlborough Sounds                                                                                             

Today you can walk to your hearts content, fish, collect mussels, visit nesting penguins or wander deserted golden beaches. This is a place where the passing traffic is likely to be a pod of orcas on their way south for their summer holiday, or dolphins leaping with joy. Noise here is not the sound of cars going past or the neighbours squabbling, but the sound of bellbirds and tuis singing and the smells are of fresh salt air mixed with the ancient odour of the bush. This is New Zealand at her very best.

Day 12 Picton - Kaikoura 155kms                                                                                                                  

This morning the water-taxi will deposit you back to Picton at 12.45pm, pick up your new hire-car and drive south on SH1. Alternatively the beautiful but winding coastal road to Port Underwood and the scenic bluffs of Rarangi is recommended - drive north past the airport to Waikawa. The loop road rejoins SH1 in Tuamarina.

29kms - In Blenheim I recommend you stop and visit a world-renowned winery - the Montana Brancott Winery is New Zealand's largest wine producer and just past Blenheim on SH1. Cloudy Bay on Jackson's Road is an internationally famous label, as is Hunters Wines on Rapaura Road. More info on  Marlborough Wines

Continue south on SH1 to Kaikoura, your destination for this evening. The rugged coast is home to a diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range. Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks, freshly cooked crayfish is usually available from a roadside shop housed in a caravan. A deep-sea canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales. However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator. Sperm whales can dive to a depth of 2kms and stay submerged for up to 2 hrs and can swim at 40km/h. Also, did you know that dolphins do not breath automatically as humans do so when they sleep only half the brain sleeps at a time.

Just as the road hits the coast, the Store Cafe is worth a stop for refreshments on their terrace by the sea. They also own an excellent garden up on the ridge that can be visited. Your first stop in Kaikoura should be the Lookout just off Scarborough Terrace. From here you can view the azure-blue waters around Kaikoura Peninsula bordered by the mountain backdrop behind. The excellent 2 hour Peninsula Walkway at the head of the peninsula takes you along the shoreline and back over the cliffs.

Day 13 Kaikoura - Hanmer Springs  142kms                                                                                                   ^ Top of page

After your morning excursion to view the whales or swim with the dolphins, drive 6kms south and turn right onto SH70, direction Waiau. You are now on the scenic Alpine Pacific Triangle.

110kms - Just after Rotherham turn right to Hanmer Springs and right again on SH7.

133kms - Turn right to Hanmer Springs, your destination for this evening. This is a fast growing thermal region offering a wealth of activities including skiing, rafting, horse-trekking and mountain-biking in the forest - their specialty. After all this activity there are the award-winning hot springs to relax in.

Day 14 Hanmer Springs - Christchurch 230kms                                                                                                  

0kms – After your morning activities, return to SH7 and turn left returning the way you came through Rotherham to Waiau.  

48kms - Turn right to Parnassus, where you turn right again onto SH1 to Cheviot. At 95kms turn left to Gore Bay to visit the uniquely eroded (think organ pipes) Cathedral Cliffs. Continue on this loop road which will rejoin SH1 in Domett. Continue south on SH1 to Christchurch via the Waipara Valley, a sunny and well drained valley which is fast becoming the new vine growing region. I can recommend a stop at the family-owned Pegasus Bay winery for lunch, turn left 4.5 kilometres later. Try their generous platter loaded with cheeses and locally caught salmon and duck accompanied with some excellent award-winning wines on the lawn.

Christchurch is New Zealand's second largest city which sprawls across the Canterbury Plains towards the Southern Alps. The main attractions here are the English style gardens and parks and the city even has its very own Avon River on which one can punt. It has an English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites evident everywhere. The best way to see the city is on a tour on a beautifully restored tram which provides commentary about the various sites along the way.

Other attractions in Christchurch worth considering for this afternoon or tomorrow morning are :-

Day 15 Christchurch - Mt Cook 330kms                                                                                                         ^ Top of page

0kms - Follow SH1 through Ashburton and soon after passing over the Rangitata River, turn right onto SH79, direction Geraldine and Fairlie

Geraldine is a great place for a coffee and has a few attractions worth stopping for. You can choose from:-

182kms - Turn right onto SH8 to Lake Tekapo. The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass. You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, a flat expanse of tussock grasslands and home to New Zealand’s highest mountain Aoraki (or Mt Cook as it is known) plus the longest glacier Tasman and sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the Southern Alps - and it bears little resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.

225kms – The village at Lake Tekapo is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog and grabbing a coffee. The gorgeous turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles suspended in the water.

240kms – Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of Mt Aoraki across the opaque Lake Pukaki.

270kms – Turn right onto SH80. Lord of the Rings fans may prefer to stay in Twizel to view where they filmed the massive Battle of the Pelennor Fields on the grassy fields to the left of this road, however it really would be sacrilege not to make the 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman and Hooker Glaciers. The drive encompasses world-class scenery at its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the Mount Cook National Park. On arrival you can choose from:-

Day 16 Mt Cook - Wanaka 212kms                                                                                                                  ^ Top of page

You can stay as long as you like before heading off to Wanaka. I recommend the Sealy Tarns Track, or for the fit it is possible to go all the way to the Muller Hut and back in one day - the best day walk I've ever done! The walk offers a gargantuan vista of Mount Aoraki, the glaciers and the exotically coloured lakes below. This is New Zealand at its very best. Please note appropriate clothing and footwear is required - storms and snow can be upon you within a few hours, even in the summer, so always be prepared for the worst.

Alternatively there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby). There is the Pelennor Fields tour - probably guided by a Rohirrim or Gondorian extra, the tour also gives a highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming. Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way down.

0kms – Return along SH80 to Twizel, head south on SH8 via the scenic Lindis Pass. Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.

174kms - Just after Tarras, turn right onto SH8A to Wanaka. The tranquil lake has picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand!

Day 17 Wanaka                                                                                                                                                 

One of the best short walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier, and its FREE. The walk will take you up through beautiful rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the face of the glacier. Wanaka is also the best place to try tandem sky-diving! Or how about a 4x4 quad bike tour on a sheep farm with great views. The local ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer - take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route down on a mountain bike. Rally car enthusiasts should try the Mountain Monster Rally, where you are strapped in the passenger seat while the expert takes on a thrilling off-road circuit at a very fast pace! Trout fishing and skiing are the locals other favourites. Glendhu Bay is a sheltered and picturesque bay, particularly in autumn when the exotic trees provide rich colour for your postcard perfect photo of the mountains behind. Just beyond is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular Motatapu Gorge. At the northern reaches of Lake Wanaka in a little place called Makaroa you can try the Siberia Experience of 3 thrills in one day – fly into the Mt Aspiring National Park (the Misty Mountains in LOTR), hike/tramp over the hill to the river and jet-boat back out. Wow!

Day 18 Wanaka - Glenorchy 130kms                                                                                                                ^ Top of page

I recommend the scenic Crown Range Route via the old gold mining towns of Cardrona and Arrowtown. It is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th century. Before you drive up over the 1120m high pass, you may like to visit the old Cardrona Hotel - you will be forgiven if you think it was used as the Prancing Pony in Bree in the LOTR trilogy.

The views from the top of the pass are stunning. Take your time coming down the zig-zag road! At the bottom, turn right to the pretty tree-lined town of Arrowtown - another former gold mining settlement. Wander amongst the historic cottages, visit the reconstructed Chinese Settlement (the Chinese were subjected to many prejudices so had their own settlement) and wander along the path by the river to view where Isildur lost his life when attacked by the Orcs in the Trilogy.

Return to SH6, where you can go right to Queenstown, or left to the Kawarau Gorge. The Kawarau River Bridge is home to A.J. Hackett's very first bungee jumping platform - this is where you get to tie a huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the river, if you dare - or just have fun watching the others. Just after the bridge you can turn right to Chard Farm and drive just a short distance up this road to see the location of the Pillars of the Kings on the River Anduin (LOTR). A few more kilometres along the gorge you will find the excellent winery and restaurant at Gibbston Valley Wines.

Return the way you came and continue on to Queenstown. However our destination this evening is further along, at the far end of Lake Wakitipu where you'll find a little place called Paradise. From here the most scenic jet-boat ride in the world (another New Zealand invention) will take you tomorrow on a thrilling ride up the Dart River into the very heart of the Mt Aspiring National Park  - there is an option to raft back down....amazing! Horse-trekking through the 'forests of Lothlorian' is also recommended.

Day 19 Glenorchy  - Queenstown 45kms                                                                                                           ^ Top of page

After your morning thrill up the Dart River, we head back to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the World! The sheer breadth of tourist activities available here is impossible to list, however the ' in-thing' at the moment are tours that have anything to do with the numerous Lord of the Rings filming locations. One of the most spectacular and affordable scenic flights in the world is the 2 hour Trilogy Trail, with plenty of commentary and behind the scenes 'anecdotes' along the way. In winter the resorts fill up with skiers.

The beautiful resort of Queenstown was originally named as 'fit for a Queen'. It lies on Lake Wakatipu, a glacial lake with an unusual rhythmic rise and fall of 12cm in its water level, every five minutes - Bob's Cove is the best place to view this phenomenon. A Maori myth says it is the beating of a monster's heart lying in the depths of Lake Wakatipu!

This evening ride the Skyline Gondola to take in the awesome views - best viewed at sunset when the Remarkables Range on the other side of Lake Wakitipu glow in golden light. In winter the view is even better with the mountains covered in snow!

Day 20 Queenstown - Milford Sound 300kms                                                                                                    ^ Top of page

Milford Sound is quite simply unparalleled to anything in this world. The awesome cruise on the fiord includes countless waterfalls tumbling hundreds of metres down sheer cliffs, mountains rising straight out of the sea, fur seals and (usually) dolphins. A 'Sound' is a flooded river valley, but these are flooded glacial valleys with sheer sided walls that plunge hundreds of metres under water as well as above - so they are misnamed. Don't forget the insect repellent as the sand-flies in Milford are not only a menace, but practically man-eating! Plus a rain coat - the area receives 12,000mm of rain per year per square metre - so chances are high that you will see rain!

0kms - Drive 6 kilometres north to the SH6 junction and turn right, direction Lumsden and Te Anau. The trip to Milford will take you at least 5 hours. You could take the road to the Remarkables Ski-field soon after this turnoff, for the best view of Queenstown at the Remarkables Lookout.

186kms - Te Anau is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park - 1,250,000 uninhabited hectares of stunning wilderness. Fiordland has a primeval rugged landscape, largely untouched by humans apart from incursions by tourists at Milford and Doubtful Sounds and a few fishermen in other fiords. It was declared a World Heritage Area on account of the outstanding geological features and exceptional beauty, the jewel in the crown being Mitre Peak in Milford Sound. However many argue that Doubtful Sound is even more spectacular. Te Anau is also the base for many multi-day mountain hikes. It is also where you should fill up with petrol, as there are no shops or facilities in Milford.

As you travel the Milford Sound Road to the Homer Tunnel there are several opportunities to stop and take photos - as you will probably be squashed between a convoy of tourist buses, you'll know where to stop. If you prefer not to drive, it is possible to take the coach which departs Te Anau at 12.30pm and drops you back there the next day also at 12.30pm. The over-night cruise departs at 4.30pm, parking is available 10 minutes walk from the Visitor Terminal. Once the masses depart on their buses, you will finally experience the sound of silence on board your boat cruising this eighth wonder of the world - kayaking with the dolphins under the many waterfalls is simply paradise.

Day 21 Milford Sound - Queenstown 300kms

Return to Queenstown the way you came and enjoy a little more of what is on offer there such as :-

Day 22 Queenstown ......internal or international flight

If your flight back to Auckland or to Australia is in the afternoon or this evening then you will have time to enjoy a bit more of Queenstown.

 22 Days in New Zealand                                                                                                                         HOME                     ^ Top of Page