| 18 Days in New Zealand HOME |
If you have eighteen days to enjoy New Zealand, you can take the scenic route from Auckland to the awesome Coromandel Peninsula and then on to Whakatane, Rotorua and Taupo to take in a little Maori culture and enjoy the volcanic area. You then fly to Christchurch in the South Island where the scenery is much more dramatic and where you can join a whale or dolphin spotting excursion before following the Southern Alps all the way to Mt Cook, Wanaka, Queenstown, Paradise (yes, it does exist) and our most beautiful attraction - the Milford Sound. You'll have more time to enjoy what is on offer now compared to the shorter itineraries. However choosing will still be difficult as there are so many choices, particularly in Wanaka and Queenstown. Hire a car, or your very own Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. Price per day for a guided chauffeur-driven tour is NZD $445 per day, this includes transport of up to 7 persons, fuel and the chauffeur's accommodation and daily expenses. Gratuities are always appreciated.
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Day 1 Auckland - Auckland
Our Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. First stop should be the volcanic cone of Mt Eden for a panoramic view of the city and harbours to orientate your bearings before we start the tour. Head north over the Harbour Bridge to pretty Orewa Beach and Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast, followed by morning tea in the original Bohemian settlement of Puhoi. We then head inland past wineries and orchards to the wild black-sand beaches of the West Coast. The gannet colony at Muriwai is a must see, as not only will the cute chicks and the flying skills of the adults keep you mesmerized, but the sweeping views along the surfing beaches north will certainly blow any jet-lag away. Heading south again lunch can be enjoyed at the Bees Online cafe where several honey orientated products are on sale, or wine lovers should take advantage of having a chauffeur and dine in a restaurant under the vines of a world class winery. After lunch I recommend a walk in the lush bush of the Waitakere Ranges to a secluded waterfall or along a deserted beach, such as the one made famous in Jane Campion's movie The Piano. Return to Auckland along the Scenic Drive and take a ferry ride to the old suburb of Devonport - Auckland is known as the City of Sails, so a venture out onto the water is an essential part of visiting Auckland. Take the tour or wander up North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean, clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham Beach. On your return to the Ferry Building enjoy the sunset and dinner in the revolving restaurant of the Sky Tower.
Day 2 Auckland - Coromandel 176kms
Before you depart for Coromandel, you may like to visit a few attractions you missed yesterday. The Waterfront is where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own. The revamped old homes of Parnell are a shopper's dream with brick paved alleyways full of boutique clothes stores, art galleries and specialty shops.
0kms - Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!
113kms – Turn left towards Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late `80s this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Follow the signs into the town centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town. If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. $8 Adult/$4 Child. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.
Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! At 142kms, 144kms, and 149kms there are places to pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.
157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left and Manaia Harbour to the right. At 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.
171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.
4.8kms up this road is the Waiau Waterways Garden and café, where whimsical wonders are worked by water. $10 Adults/$5 Child. If you choose not to go in, the café is still a good option for lunch. They also sell pottery and garden sculptures at studio prices. If you do choose to go in, there are plenty of whacky contraptions to entertain the young and young at heart. There is a swimming hole and free onsite BBQs - bring your own sausages. They also provide umbrellas, plus toilets (a `long-drop` old style toilet – a rarity these days around New Zealand).
6.7kms - If you are feeling energetic, there is the walk to Castle Rock. It will take you about 45 minutes to walk up and 30 minutes to walk down. The track is slippery in places and the last few meters is a bit of a scramble holding onto rocks and bits of tree roots to get to the top, but the view is worth it from the top.
7.3kms - The small but delightful Waiau Falls – best viewed from below in the bush glade where there is also a swimming hole.
7.9kms - Continue another 1/2km to the Kauri Grove parking. This stop is excellent, giving you a real taste for the New Zealand bush without much effort. The bush walk is an easy 10 minute stroll on a level path to 600 year old kauri trees. These trees are magnificent, with native bush wonderfully lush and cool and peaceful. Continue past the first lookout for a lovely circuit past the Siamese Kauri and to the Kauri Grove. The kauris are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years and grow to twice the height of these ones! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. No wonder they call them the giants of the forest and were almost wiped out by the colonials for their timber. The cutting down of a kauri is now banned as they are protected, so thankfully now we are seeing a comeback of these giants to our forests.
Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight, full of cafés and craft shops.
Day 3 Coromandel - Hahei 80kms
This morning you could:-
Go fishing for giant snapper at 7am – the Coromandel Fish and Chip shop will fillet and cook it for you, alternatively if you’d like to enjoy your catch in a lovely restaurant setting, then the Success Café will cook up your catch for you – if it is filleted first. Also try the Smoking Company.
Or you could play golf on the 9 hole course – green fees are only $15 if you play 9 or 18 holes. The course winds around old mine shafts, with fairways following what once were gold veins bordered by miner’s shacks.
Most head to the popular Driving Creek Railway, for a unique ride on a narrow gauge train up a ziggy zaggy track that was first built to bring firewood and clay down for the potteries below. Adult $17/Child $15. There is a great view over Coromandel from the “Eye Full Tower” at the top, where they serve train station style tea and coffee.
Visit the gardens, or pan for gold at the 100 year old Goldfields Centre and Stamper Battery.
0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.
28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.
41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43.5kms continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.
72kms – Turn left to Hahei and Hot Water Beach. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! You can dig a hole on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.
Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-
Walk the coastal track which starts on the northern end of Hahei Beach. The views are excellent, it will take you about 1 hour to reach the cove itself.
Drive up to the car-park via Grange Road, then walk 45 minutes to the cove.
Take the Hahei sight seeing boat, departing 10am (no time at the beach).
Or my recommendation is to join the sea kayaking tour departing at 9am. $65 for a 3 hour truly kiwi experience, includes top quality kayaks and gear, tuition, and even a coffee brewed for you on the beach while you take a swim. You can order which ever style – Cappuccino, Mochachino, even an L Baccino (long black). Sea kayaking is a `must do` in New Zealand and this is one of the most beautiful places to try it.
Day 4 Hahei - Whakatane 265kms ^ Top of Page
Today there is a long drive to Whakatane. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed. It is OK to do the excellent 9am kayak tour before hitting the road.
0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.
21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.
49kms - State Highway 25 turns left and at 69.3kms go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long, and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding you may wish to stop for coffee.
100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga.
159kms – Bethlehem is home to the Mills Reef Winery and up-market restaurant, the turnoff is to the right just as you come into town. This option is for those that left Hahei early this morning. Otherwise continue straight at the roundabout, direction Mount Maunganui. On the expressway, keep following Mt Maunganui, left.
165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.
167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. 3 kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout towards Town Centre –Mt M, and head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may want to try your hand at wave ridfing? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.
Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.
187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the T intersection at 190kms go left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region, watch out for the giant kiwifruit in Maketu, another 17 kilometres from here. If you’d like to know more about the fruit (and have time) stop for a tour, or just visit their café and souvenir shop.
209kms – SH2 goes left, direction Whakatane. At 243kms SH2 turns right, but continue straight towards Whakatane, your destination for this evening.
Day 5 Whakatane - Rotorua 90kms ^ Top of Page
The highlight in Whakatane is without doubt a visit to White Island, an active volcano 50kms offshore. For me the tour scored a 10 out of 10 for awesomeness. Staring down into the crater’s mouth, stepping around steaming sulphur pools and bubbling mud will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of my life. However the island doesn’t have a wharf, so persons with low mobility are discouraged from taking the trip, also preferably no children under the age of 8 – and only then if they are well behaved and can be trusted not to wander from the path, it is a dangerous environment out there. Covered shoes are also a requirement. Alternatively, there are helicopter tours, with one hour on the island, or fixed wing flight-seeing over the island. You can combine these flights with a trip over Mt Tarawera, an impressive volcano which blew in 1886, that not only split the mountain rather dramatically, but also buried the famous Pink and White terraces, together with three villages and the loss of 153 lives.
While in town take a short drive west to the harbour entrance to see the beautiful statue of Wairaka, a Maori heroin who went against Maori laws to save the drifting waka (canoe). If you’ve seen ‘Whale Rider’, you’ll understand how strongly the Maoris feel about what is ‘tapu’ or out of bounds. She proclaimed ‘Ka Whakatane au I amu’ which means ‘to act like a man’, so the city was named after her heroic acts.
Café Addiction on The Strand does the best coffee in town, and has a wonderful selection of light meals available if you need something before you head for Rotorua (1¼ hrs driving time), or the café at White Island Tours on The Strand East has lots of yummy food and revitalizing drinks.
0kms - Departing from the waterfront return to the shops and continue along The Strand, go left at the second roundabout (Commerce Street) then right at the McDonalds (Domain Road) following the signs to Rotorua and Tauranga. Continue straight for 3kms, you then need to go right at the 3rd roundabout.
7kms – Continue straight, you are now on the SH30 to Rotorua, at 14.5kms follow the highway left. The road skirts Lake Rotoma, Lake Rotoehu, Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotorua which are all flooded volcanic craters. The latter you will probably smell before you see it, as the area is still active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell.
72.7kms - Hells Gate. This is one of your options for this afternoon, if you’d like a mud spa treatment that will leave you glowing. As you arrive in Rotorua, keep following the City Centre signs, this will bring you to the lakefront of Rotorua, your destination for this evening. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer, and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:-
Kuirua Park has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free! An eruption took place here as recently as 2001 when mud, steam and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land having to be given back to nature.
Wander around the original Maori settlement at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore to fill their bath in the out-shed….just follow the steam and stay on the paths!
If you have time, soak in the reputedly therapeutic thermal pools at the Polynesian Spa, a delightful but busy public pool. If you wait until tomorrow morning the spa is less crowded - it is a wonderful way to start the day - relaxing with serene views across the lake.
This evening don’t miss the excellent Tamaki Brothers cultural show followed by a traditional Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus, followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by local Maori.
The excitement junkies can take the Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha for awesome views, interspersed with hair raising rides on a luge (3 levels available, so suitable for children).
Day 6 Rotorua - Taupo - Rotorua 184kms ^ Top of Page
The next day you could :-
Have a game of golf on the beautiful Arikikapakapa course on the southern end of Fenton Street. On the 9 hole course, the usual hazards are not lakes and sand-traps, but rather steam vents and boiling mud pools!
The Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland is the best thermal reserve in the area and is highly recommended for today.
For non-golfers there are several other tourist attractions vying for your dollar. One possibility is to take an awesome flight over Mt Tarawera
The Te Wairoa buried village could also be visited this morning, or take a 4x4 tour to the top of Mt Tarawera.
Agrodome’s principle attraction is the Sheep Show, a highly entertaining explanation of sheep, and the caring of said sheep – the mainstay of New Zealand’s exports.
Just before Lake Taupo there are many more attractions!
29.4kms – Heading south towards Taupo, turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!
Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such a kaleidoscope of colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.
Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Waiotapu Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather, and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left, or right back to Rotorua.
52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course. The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native Tui birds.
78.2kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.
If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater Prawn Park, apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. The informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant, which sadly is not open evenings.
The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet. There are hands on interpretive displays of local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated earthquake.
The Honey Hive also has interesting interpretive displays, a glass fronted live beehive and the Beez Kneez Café.
The Huka Falls are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here the sedate Waikato River is forced between a 15m gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls are much more impressive from below where there is a walkway across the river.
There is another free attraction called the Craters of the Moon volcanic reserve, that is if you’re not all ‘thermalled out’ yet. To reach the reserve after visiting the falls, return up the hill to Helistar Helicopters, turn left towards the SH1 intersection, then cross straight over. Follow the road for 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40 minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel as if you’re walking on the moon.
Return to SH1, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front where most of the eating establishments are situated. Return to Rotorua.
Day 7 Rotorua - Christchurch ... morning flight ^ Top of page
The flight can be described as a scenic flight, with spectacular views of the North Island volcanoes of Tongariro, Ngarauhoe, Ruapehu (Mount Doom in the LOTR Trilogy), Taranaki (Mt Fujiyama in the Last Samurai) before crossing to the South Island and following the Southern Alps all the way down to Christchurch.
Christchurch is New Zealand's second largest city, sprawling across the Canterbury Plains towards the Southern Alps. The main attractions here are the English style gardens and parks and the city even has its very own Avon River on which one can punt. It has an English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites evident everywhere. The best way to see the city is on a tour on a beautifully restored tram which provides commentary about the various sites along the way.
Day 8 Christchurch - Kaikoura 200kms
Today we drive up the east coast to Kaikoura, ready for your dolphin or whale spotting excursion tomorrow (bookings essential!) It will take you about 3 hours, so you have time to visit more attractions in Christchurch this morning if you like such as :-
The Port Hills Gondola has stunning views. You can take the gondola back down, walk on the Bridle Path, or descend by mountain-bike
Take the Scenic Drive to the harbour of Lyttleton via Sumner and Evans Pass, returning over the Port Hills
Visit the Canterbury Museum (free) for their excellent Antarctic display and impressive Maori collection
The excellent International Antarctic Centre near the airport is where you can experience all there is to know about the icy continent
Play golf at Clearwater Estate, an extremely beautiful 72 hole championship course. The Russley Course is on the Top 100 Golf Courses in the World list
Mona Vale is a beautiful Edwardian-style homestead set amongst 5 1/2 ha of beautiful gardens
0kms - Head north on SH1, direction Kaiapoi and Kaikoura. The Waipara Valley is a sunny and well drained valley and is fast becoming the new vine growing region. I can recommend a stop at the family-owned Pegasus Bay winery, turn right 4.5 kilometres before the village. Try their generous platter loaded with cheeses and locally caught salmon and duck accompanied with some excellent award-winning wines on the lawn.
108kms - In Domett (7 kilometres before Cheviot) it is possible to turn right to visit the dramatically eroded Cathedral Cliffs in Gore Bay, if you have time. Continue on this loop road which will rejoin SH1 in Cheviot.
162kms - SH1 hits the coast just before Goose Bay. The rugged coast is home to a diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range. Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks. Freshly cooked crayfish is usually available from a roadside stall. A deep-sea canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales. However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator.
Your first stop in Kaikoura should be the Lookout just off Scarborough Terrace. From here you can view the azure-blue waters around Kaikoura Peninsula bordered by the mountain backdrop behind. The excellent 2 hour Peninsula Walkway at the head of the peninsula takes you along the shoreline and back over the cliffs.
Day 9 Kaikoura - Hanmer Springs 142kms ^ Top of page
After your morning excursion, drive 5kms south and turn right onto SH70, direction Waiau. You are now on the scenic Alpine Pacific Triangle.
110kms - Just after Rotherham turn right to Hanmer Springs and right again onto SH7.
133kms - Turn right to Hanmer Springs, your destination for this evening. This is a fast growing thermal region offering a wealth of activities including skiing, rafting, horse-trekking and mountain-biking in the forest - their specialty. After all this activity there are the award-winning hot springs to relax in.
Day 10 Hanmer Springs - Methven 234kms ^ Top of page
0kms – After your morning activities, return to SH7 and turn left direction Culverden. The road takes you via the beautiful Weta Pass full of limestone formations and the Waipara Valley again.
79kms – Turn right onto SH1. You stop at the family-owned Pagasus Bay winery for lunch, turn left 4.5 kilometres later. Alternative refreshment and/or lunch stops are rather limited in the next 150 kilometres!
90kms – In Amberly turn right onto the Inland Scenic Route. The route follows SH72, first right, then left and at 93kms left again. At 113kms turn right to Ashley Gorge and at 119kms left to Oxford. This route takes you along the foothills of the Southern Alps rewarding you with expansive views across the Canterbury Plains to Christchurch lying nestled under Banks Peninsula in the distance. The volcanic peninsula was originally detached from the mainland but sediment washed down from the forever eroding mountains eventually bridged the gap creating the plain. You will cross several of these alluvial rivers on your journey south.
155kms - Turn right onto SH72. Oxford has little to hold you, other than a quick (not so good) coffee. As you cross over the dramatic Waimakariri Gorge glance to your right. It is in these foothills that you would find Narnia, if only it actually existed. Filming took place at Flock Hill Station near the Craigieburn ski-field. At the intersection with SH73, turn left, then right to Mount Hutt and then after 9 kilometres right onto SH77.
218kms - The road crosses the alluvial Rakaia River next. For excellent views of the gorge you should park by the first bridge and cross over the road to the little walkway. Walk as little or as far as you like but the views are best at the beginning. It is also possible to drive onto the riverbed.
223kms – Turn left to Methven - a bustling ski resort by winter servicing Mount Hutt and a quiet country town in the summer.
Day 11 Methven - Mt Cook 274kms ^ Top of page
Today I am taking you to the very centre of Middle-Earth, hidden deep in the Southern Alps. Be sure to pack a picnic today and fill up with petrol! Take the road next to the tourist office, direction Mt Somers and at 10.4kms turn left onto SH72.
30kms – In Mount Somers turn right towards the high country sheep stations of Mount Potts and Erewhon (a misspelling of nowhere spelt backwards!) You really do feel as if you are in the middle of nowhere as you travel through the tussocked and exposed land. Be aware that you are now in the alpine region, where weather and temperatures can change dramatically within hours! The 50 kilometer unsealed road will take you deep into the mountains to the head of the Rangitata River.
65kms – Turn right onto Mt Pocession Street for an awesome view of the Alps across the trout infested Lake Clearwater – the holiday settlement is full of tiny basic holiday homes that we call a bach. The lake is popular for bird watching, kayaking, wind-surfing and trout fishing. The scenery changes dramatically after this as the road meanders through the huge high country farms to reveal your first breath-taking view of the massive glacial valley. In the middle of the valley you will see Mt Sunday - it is not really a mountain by a small rocky knoll that escaped the destruction of the advancing glaciers. The elaborate set of the Golden Hall of Edoras in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy was purposely built on Mt Sunday. One of my favourite scenes was of Éowyn gazing across the valley in deep thought, and my absolute favourite scene was of Aragorn returning by horse to Helms Deep after his disappearance over the cliff, which was filmed further up the Rangitata Valley. My ultimate dream would be to ride myself up that grassy knoll, with awesome views of the valley below framed by the massive Southern Alps... I’ll keep you informed.
81kms - Follow the road past Mt Potts Station and park just after the cattle-stop (judderbars that animals can not walk over) – the road continues for another 4 kilometres to Erewhon Station. It is permissible to walk to Mt Sunday but it does involve getting your feet wet several times. We failed in our attempt on the fourth crossing, however it was an adventurous and humbling experience trekking as tiny insignificant specks through morass and icy cold streams surrounded by massive snow-capped mountains. We retreated and found the most perfect picnic spot on a grassy bluff 200 metres up the hill from our car – in fact the best picnic spot I have ever found in the world, it even bet the picnic we had dangling our legs over the edge on top of Table Mountain in Cape Town! You may even feel spiritually uplifted (as I was) after your visit - it may have something to do with the source of the river being fed by the Garden of Allah Glacier and the Garden of Eden Ice Plateau! Return to Mt Somers and turn right, direction Geraldine.
182kms - Geraldine is worth more than a drive through. You can choose from:-
A larger than fair smattering of arts and crafts galleries
The Vintage Car Club and Machinery Museum has a sizable collection of cars, tractors and aircraft.
The Giant Jersey has, you guessed it, the largest jersey in the world, plus lots of woolly stuff on sale.
Barker's Berry Barn is a specialty shop, where you'll find a huge range of fruity liqueurs and wines, plus unique gift and gourmet items.
Kiwi Country is purpose built for the tourist buses and is full of the usual souvenirs. However it does have excellent coffees and toilet facilities.
Turn right at the tourist office to Fairlie, where you will turn right onto SH8 to Lake Tekapo. The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass. You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, home to New Zealand’s highest mountain Aoraki, or Mt Cook as it is known in English, the longest glacier Tasman and sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the rolling foothills of the Southern Alps and it bears little resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.
270kms – The village at Lake Tekapo is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog and grabbing a coffee. The gorgeous turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles suspended in the water.
285kms – Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of Mt Aoraki across the opaque Lake Pukaki.
315kms – Turn right onto SH80. Lord of the Rings fans may prefer to stay in Twizel to view where they filmed the massive Battle of the Pelennor Fields on the grassy fields to the left of this road, however it really would be sacrilege not to make the 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman and Hooker Glaciers. The drive encompasses world-class scenery at its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the Mount Cook National Park. On arrival you can choose from:-
Several different alpine walks with wonderful views.
Scenic flights either by ski plane or helicopter, guaranteed to be THE trip of your lifetime!
Glacier Explorer Trips involves walking to Tasman Lake and then taking an informative boat ride to the face of the advancing glacier
Heli-skiing on the upper Tasman Glacier.
Eat, drink and just relax in the Hermitage while enjoying the incredible views that lie before you.
Day 12 Mt Cook - Wanaka 212kms ^ Top of page
You can stay as long as you like before heading off to Wanaka. I recommend the Sealy Tarns Track, or for the fit it is possible to go all the way to the Muller Hut and back in one day - the best day walk I've ever done! The walk offers a gargantuan vista of Mount Aoraki, the glaciers and the exotically coloured lakes below. This is New Zealand at its very best. Please note appropriate clothing and footwear is required - storms and snow can be upon you within a few hours, even in the summer, so always be prepared for the worst.
Alternatively there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby). There is the Pelennor Fields tour probably guided by a Rohirrim or Gondorian extra - the tour also gives a highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming. Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way down.
0kms – Return along SH80 to Twizel and head south on SH8 via the scenic Lindis Pass. Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.
174kms - Just after Tarras, turn right onto SH8A to Wanaka. The tranquil lake has picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand!
Day 13 Wanaka ^ Top of page
One of the best short walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier, and its FREE. The walk will take you up through beautiful rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the face of the glacier. Wanaka is also the best place to try tandem sky-diving! Or how about a 4x4 quad bike tour on a sheep farm with great views. The local ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer - take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route down on a mountain bike. Rally car enthusiasts should try the Mountain Monster Rally, where you are strapped in the passenger seat while the expert takes on a thrilling off-road circuit at a very fast pace! Trout fishing and skiing are the locals other favourites. Glendhu Bay is a sheltered and picturesque bay, particularly in autumn when the exotic trees provide rich colour for your postcard perfect photo of the mountains behind. Just beyond is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular Motatapu Gorge. At the northern reaches of Lake Wanaka in a little place called Makaroa you can try the Siberia Experience of 3 thrills in one day – fly into the Mt Aspiring National Park (the Misty Mountains in LOTR), hike/tramp over the hill to the river and jet-boat back out. Wow!
Day 14 Wanaka - Glenorchy 130kms ^ Top of page
I recommend the scenic Crown Range Route via the old gold mining towns of Cardrona and Arrowtown. It is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th century. Before you drive up over the 1120m high pass, you may like to visit the old Cardrona Hotel - you will be forgiven if you think it was used as the Prancing Pony in Bree in the LOTR trilogy.
The views from the top of the pass are stunning. Take your time coming down the zig-zag road! At the bottom, turn right to the pretty tree-lined town of Arrowtown - another former gold mining settlement. Wander amongst the historic cottages, visit the reconstructed Chinese Settlement (the Chinese were subjected to many prejudices so had their own settlement) and wander along the path by the river to view where Isildur lost his life when attacked by the Orcs in the LOTR Trilogy.
Return to SH6, where you can go right to Queenstown, or left to the Kawarau Gorge. The Kawarau River Bridge is home to A.J. Hackett's very first bungee jumping platform - this is where you get to tie a huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the river, if you dare - or just have fun watching the others. Just after the bridge you can turn right to Chard Farm and drive just a short distance up this road to see the location of the Pillars of the Kings on the River Anduin (LOTR). A few more kilometres along the gorge you will find the excellent winery and restaurant at Gibbston Valley Wines.
Return the way you came and continue on to Queenstown. However our destination this evening is further along, at the far end of Lake Wakitipu where you'll find a little place called Paradise. From here the most scenic jet-boat ride in the world (another New Zealand invention) will take you on a thrilling ride tomorrow up the Dart River into the very heart of the Mt Aspiring National Park - there is an option to raft back down....amazing! Horse-trekking through the 'forests of Lothlorian' is also recommended.
Day 15 Glenorchy - Queenstown 45kms ^ Top of page
After your morning thrill up the Dart River, we head back to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the World! The sheer breadth of tourist activities available here is impossible to list, however the ' in-thing' at the moment are tours that have anything to do with the numerous Lord of the Rings filming locations. One of the most spectacular and affordable scenic flights in the world is the 2 hour Trilogy Trail, with plenty of commentary and behind the scenes 'anecdotes' along the way. In winter the resorts fill up with skiers.
The beautiful resort of Queenstown was originally named as 'fit for a Queen'. It lies on Lake Wakatipu, a glacial lake with an unusual rhythmic rise and fall of 12cm in its water level, every five minutes - Bob's Cove is the best place to view this phenomenon. A Maori myth says it is the beating of a monster's heart lying in the depths of the lake!
This evening ride the Skyline Gondola to take in the awesome views - best viewed at sunset when the Remarkables Range on the other side of Lake Wakitipu glow in golden light. In winter the view is even better with the mountains covered in snow!
Day 16 Queenstown - Milford Sound 300kms ^ Top of page
Milford Sound is quite simply unparalleled to anything in this world. The awesome cruise on the fiord includes countless waterfalls tumbling hundreds of metres down sheer cliffs, mountains rising straight out of the sea, fur seals and (usually) dolphins. A 'Sound' is a flooded river valley, but these are flooded glacial valleys with sheer sided walls that plunge hundreds of metres under water as well as above - so they are misnamed. Don't forget the insect repellent as the sand-flies in Milford are not only a menace, but practically man-eating! Plus a rain coat - the area receives 12,000mm of rain per year per square metre - so chances are high that you will see rain!
0kms - Drive 6 kilometres north to the SH6 junction and turn right, direction Lumsden and Te Anau. The trip to Milford will take you at least 5 hours. You could take the road to the Remarkables Ski-field soon after this turnoff, for the best view of Queenstown at the Remarkables Lookout.
186kms - Te Anau is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park - 1,250,000 uninhabited hectares of stunning wilderness. Fiordland has a primeval rugged landscape, largely untouched by humans apart from incursions by tourists at Milford and Doubtful sounds and a few fishermen in other fiords. It was declared a World Heritage Area on account of the outstanding geological features and exceptional beauty, the jewel in the crown being Mitre Peak in Milford Sound. However many argue that Doubtful Sound is even more spectacular. Te Anau is also the base for many multi-day mountain hikes. It is also where you should fill up with petrol, as there are no shops or facilities in Milford.
As you travel the Milford Sound Road to the Homer Tunnel there are several opportunities to stop and take photos - as you will probably be squashed between a convoy of tourist buses, you'll know where to stop. If you prefer not to drive, it is possible to take the coach which departs Te Anau at 12.30pm and drops you back there the next day also at 12.30pm. The over-night cruise departs at 4.30pm, parking is available 10 minutes walk from the Visitor Terminal. Once the masses depart on their buses, you will finally experience the sound of silence on board your boat cruising this eighth wonder of the world - kayaking with the dolphins under the many waterfalls is simply paradise.
Day 17 Milford Sound - Queenstown 300kms
Return to Queenstown the way you came and enjoy a little more of what is on offer there such as :-
Day 18 Queenstown ......internal or international flight
If your flight back to Auckland or to Australia is in the afternoon or this evening then you will have time to enjoy a bit more of Queenstown.
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