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If you have only 6 days in New Zealand, you can take a circular route from Auckland to the awesome Coromandel Peninsula and then on to Rotorua to take in a little Maori culture and enjoy the sulphur hot-springs, followed by the mountainous inner region of Lake Taupo - the largest volcanic crater in the world. Here you can try trout fishing from a boat or on land, your fishing-guide can even fillet and smoke your catch on the spot! Heading north again, visit the glow-worm filled caves at Waitomo and the Kiwi House in Otorohanga. Hire a car, or your very own Amazing New Zealand chauffeur can pick you up from the airport or your accommodation. Price per day for a guided chauffeur-driven tour is NZD $590 per day, this includes transport of up to 7 persons, fuel and the chauffeur's accommodation and daily expenses. Gratuities are always appreciated.
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Day 1 Auckland - Coromandel 176kms
0kms - Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!
113kms – Turn left towards Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late 1880s this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Follow the signs into the town centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town. If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.
Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more, and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! There are plenty of places places where you can pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.
157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left and Manaia Harbour to the right. 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.
171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.
4.8kms up this road is the Waiau Waterways Garden and café, where whimsical wonders are worked by water. $10 Adults/$5 Child. If you choose not to go in, the café is still a good option for lunch. They also sell pottery and garden sculptures at studio prices. If you do choose to go in, there are plenty of whacky contraptions to entertain the young and young at heart. There is a swimming hole and free onsite BBQs - bring your own sausages. They also provide umbrellas, plus toilets (a `long-drop` old style toilet – a rarity these days around New Zealand).
6.7kms - If you are feeling energetic, there is the walk to Castle Rock. It will take you about 45 minutes to walk up and 30 minutes to walk down. The track is slippery in places and the last few meters is a bit of a scramble holding onto rocks and bits of tree roots to get to the top, but the view worth it from the top!
7.3kms - The small but delightful Waiau Falls – best viewed from below in the bush glade where there is also a swimming hole.
7.9kms - Continue another 1/2km to the Kauri Grove parking. This stop is excellent, giving you a real taste for the New Zealand bush without much effort. The bush walk is an easy 10 minute stroll on a level path to 600 year old kauri trees. These trees are magnificent, with native bush wonderfully lush and cool and peaceful. Continue past the first lookout for a lovely circuit past the Siamese Kauri and to the Kauri Grove. The kauris are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years and grow to twice the height of these ones! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. No wonder they call them the giants of the forest and were almost wiped out by the colonials for their timber. The cutting down of a kauri is now banned as they are protected, so thankfully now we are seeing a comeback of these giants to our forests.
Return to Highway 25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight, full of cafés and craft shops.
Day 2 Coromandel - Hahei 80kms
This morning you could:-
Go fishing for giant snapper at 7am – the Coromandel Fish and Chip shop will fillet and cook it for you, alternatively if you’d like to enjoy your catch in a lovely restaurant setting, then the Success Café will cook up your catch for you – if it is filleted first. Also try the Smoking Company.
Or you could play golf on the 9 hole course – green fees are only $15 if you play 9 or 18 holes. The course winds around old mine shafts, with fairways following what once were gold veins bordered by miner’s shacks.
Most head to the popular Driving Creek Railway, for a unique ride on a narrow gauge train up a ziggy zaggy track that was first built to bring firewood and clay down for the potteries below. Adult $17/Child $15. There is a great view over Coromandel from the “Eye Full Tower” at the top, where they serve train station style tea and coffee.
Visit the gardens, or pan for gold at the 100 year old Goldfields Centre and Stamper Battery.
0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.
28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.
41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43kms continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.
72kms – Turn left to Hahei and Hot Water Beach. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! Dig on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.
Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-
Walk the coastal track which starts on the northern end of Hahei Beach. The views are excellent, it will take you about 1 hour to reach the cove itself.
Drive up to the car-park via Grange Road, then walk 45 minutes to the cove.
Take the Hahei sight seeing boat, departing 10am (no time at the beach).
Or my recommendation is to join the sea kayaking tour departing at 9am. This is a 3 hour truly kiwi experience, includes top quality kayaks and gear, tuition, and even a coffee brewed for you on the beach while you take a swim. You can order which ever style – Cappuccino, Mochachino, even an L Baccino (long black). Sea kayaking is a `must do` in New Zealand, and this is one of the most beautiful places to try it.
Day 3 Hahei - Rotorua 294kms
Today there is a long drive to Rotorua. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed.
0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.
21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.
69.3kms go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding and you may wish to stop for coffee.
100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga.
159kms – Bethlehem is home to the Mills Reef Winery and up-market restaurant, the turnoff is to the right just as you come into town. This option is for those that left Hahei early this morning. Otherwise continue straight at the roundabout, direction Mount Maunganui. On the expressway, keep following Mt Maunganui, left.
165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.
167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. 3 kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may like to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.
Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.
187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the ' T ' intersection turn left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region of New Zealand. At 209kms follow SH33, direction Rotorua.
As you come into Rotorua, follow the city centre signs around the lake. You may smell Rotorua before seeing it, as the area is still very active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell. Rotorua lies on a beautiful lake, actually a flooded volcanic crater - the surrounding hills are the remains of the rim of the giant volcano. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:-
Kuirau Park has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free! An eruption took place here as recently as January 26th, 2001 when mud, steam and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land having to be given back to nature.
Wander around the original Maori settlement at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore to fill their bath in the out-shed….just follow the steam and, stay on the paths!
If you have time, soak in the reputedly therapeutic thermal pools at the Polynesian Spa, a delightful but busy public pool. If you wait until tomorrow morning the spa is less crowded - it is a wonderful way to start the day - relaxing with serene views across the lake.
Agrodome’s principle attraction here is the Sheep Show, a highly entertaining explanation of sheep and the caring of said sheep – the mainstay of New Zealand’s exports. Other attractions invented by enterprising New Zealanders on site include Zorbing (rolling down a hill in a giant plastic ball), Swooping (a glorified swing), bungee jumping (jump from a massive height with an elastic cord tied to your ankles), farm tour (on the back of a tractor) and jet-boating (the art of speeding in a tiny boat over very little water).
The 9 hole course at the Rotorua Golf Club has steaming sulphur vents and bubbling mud as its hazards instead of sand traps and lakes!
This evening don’t miss the excellent Tamaki Brothers cultural show followed by a traditional Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus, followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by local Maoris.
The excitement junkies can take the Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha for awesome views, interspersed with hair raising rides on a luge (3 levels available, so suitable for children).
Day 4 Rotorua - Taupo 90kms
0kms – Departing from the tourist office, drive up Fenton Street direction Taupo. At 29.4kms turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!
Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland, the best thermal reserve in the area. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.
Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Waiotapu Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather, and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left.
52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course, mentioned on the 'Top 100 Golf Courses in the World' list! The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native tui birds.
78.2kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre, and Prawn Park.
If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater Huka Prawn Park, apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. The informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant.
The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet. There are hands on interpretive displays of local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated earthquake.
The Honey Hive also has interesting interpretive displays, a glass fronted live beehive and the Beez Kneez Café.
The Huka Falls are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here the sedate Waikato River is forced between a 15m gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls are much more impressive from below, where there is a walkway across the river.
There is another free attraction called the Craters of the Moon volcanic reserve, that is if you’re not all ‘thermalled out’ yet. To reach the reserve after visiting the falls, return up the hill to Helistar Helicopters, turn left towards the SH1 intersection, then cross straight over. Follow the road for 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40 minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel as if you’re walking on the moon.
Return to SH1, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest volcanic crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. The mountains to the south of the lake are popular for skiing in the winter and walking in the summer. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front and City Centre, where most of the eating and accommodation establishments are situated. The trout infested lake and rivers are a fisherman's delight!
Day 5 Taupo - Otorohanga 184kms
0kms – From the waterfront, drive back up the hill of SH1, at 1.6kms turn left direction Te Kuiti. At 14.9kms you’ll find Action Quads. They offer 4x4 touring on a motorbike – dangerous but fun! If you departed early from Taupo, you’ll have time for this.
35kms – Right to Te Kuiti onto SH32, at 48kms left onto SH30, at 52kms SH30 goes left and at 55.5kms left again.
71kms – There is a short 20 minute Totara Tree walk if you feel like stretching your legs – don’t leave valuables in the car.
134kms – SH30 meets SH3 in Te Kuiti, the shearing capital of the world, proudly depicted in the statue on this intersection. The town comes alive in April when the annual sheep shearing championships take place. Waitomo is only another 20kms from here where there is a better selection of cafes for coffee and lunch. On the main street in Te Kuiti, opposite the Mobil petrol station there are beautiful statues of the Mahoenui Giant Weta, the world’s largest insect, but unfortunately also one of the most endangered species in the world. They only live in one 180ha area of gorse near here – the only legally protected gorse in New Zealand. Everywhere else the introduced gorse is an agricultural pest. Giant weta are closely related to grasshoppers and crickets and are the peaceful giants of the insect world. They are nocturnal, eating mainly plant matter and the occasional insects and they DO NOT bite.
146kms – Turn left direction Waitomo Caves. There is an excellent café, toilets and ticket office at the Caves entrance themselves….continue 500m past the village centre. This is the main tourist attraction, where you float silently in a boat in pitch darkness under thousands of glow worms – it is really quite a surreal experience and the best glow worm display I have seen in the world. The 45 minute tour leaves quite regularly, so don’t be put off by the tour buses.
The Waitomo Caves are part of a karst system that was once the seabed 30 million years ago. The caves’ stalactites and stalagmites are fairly impressive, especially in the Aranui Cave - combination tickets available. There are several other less commercial alternatives such as black water rafting on car tubes through the Black Labyrinth (allow 3 hours), Tuma Tuma Toobing on a tube (allow 4 hours), the Haggis Honking Holes involves abseiling into the wonderland (allow 4 hours), or if you have time the Lost World Epic is an awesome once in a lifetime experience (allow 7 hours, departs 11.30am, includes dinner). However you need to depart early from Taupo if you want to catch any of these.
Alternatively, after the glow worm spectacular, I recommend the Ruakuri Natural Tunnel 2 hour walk, one of New Zealand’s best short walks. Drive another 800m past the Caves and turn left down Tumutumu Road, the walkway starts from the Aranui Caves car-park beside the Waitomo Stream. Follow the stream upriver on the left bank to the natural tunnel lookout, the track then takes you over a natural bridge, then to some spectacular lookout points, before taking you right inside the river tunnel and into a limestone ‘squeeze’.
Tonight you could stay on a farm 30kms north near Otorohanga for a great way to experience rural life, with true Kiwiana hospitality. (If visiting the Kiwi House this afternoon in Otorahanga, last entry 4.30pm. In June, July, Aug last entry 4pm). From Waitomo, head east again, back to SH3. Turn left direction Hamilton.
Day 6 Otorohanga - Auckland 185kms
Otorohanga is a pretty country town, proud to display everything that is uniquely New Zealand – this is the place to try pavlova, kiwifruit jam and carrot cake. Otorohanga is also famous for its Kiwi House. If you haven’t seen a live cute fluffy kiwi yet, then take the Kiwi House Tourist Drive just through the village centre. The loop road will bring you to the car-park after 1.5kms. The Kiwi House has the nocturnal kiwis on display in the night room, plus there is an interesting ½ hour walk, which includes a "walk through aviary" full of native birds, plus the rare endemic Tuatara lizard. Continue on the loop road back to Otorohanga village, turn right towards the village and right again after the shops to follow the ‘Alternative Route North’ to Ngaruawahia on SH39 instead of the much busier SH1.
28kms - Pirongia Café on the left is excellent, 100m from the café up the side road you will find the Alexandria Redoubt, built in 1872 as a defense and place of refuge for local European families during the period of unrest between the Maori and European settlers.
58kms - SH39 goes left and immediately right. In Ngaruawahia, turn right over the railway tracks, then left onto SH1, direction Auckland.
185kms - Head Downtown to the the Waterfront where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. After all, Auckland is known as the City of Sails. Continue east along the coast to Kelly Tarlton's, he was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own. The revamped old homes of Parnell are a shopper's dream - the brick paved alleyways are full of boutique clothes stores, art galleries and specialty shops. You can't help but notice the Sky Tower. Admire the sunset and panoramic view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just have dinner in the revolving restaurant.
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