Highlights in the North Island

• Overnight boat-trip in the Bay of Islands

• Matauri Bay

• Waipoua Forest

• Beautiful Coromandel Peninsula

• White Island

• Cultural activities in Rotorua

• Hawke's Bay wine growing region

• Volcanic area of Lake Taupo

• Farmstay on the Whanganui River

      Highlights in the South Island

• Mount Cook National Park

• Akaroa and the Hector Dolphins

• The rugged Kaikoura Coast

• Queenstown - The Adventure Capital of the World

• Dart River and Mt Aspiring National Park

• Fiordland National Park, Milford Sound

• Abel Tasman National Park

• The West Coast glaciers

• Queen Charlotte Sound

All travellers using Amazing New Zealand services are personally met at the airport by our friendly professional representative.

You will receive at the airport a comprehensive Deluxe Travel Pack. The pack contains the prepaid service vouchers, maps, discount vouchers and brochures to local attractions, plus a detailed daily explanation of driving routes, including suggested stops en route. You will also receive a portable DVD player to compare actual film locations with the finished product in our famous New Zealand made films.

The representative will then take you to your accommodation in Auckland, stopping en route on the extinct volcano Mount Eden to point out the city's many geographical features and attractions. Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city, straddling two enormous harbours and dotted with 48 extinct volcanic cones. We recommend at least one day here to recover from your jet-lag.

Suggested activities:-  

• The Waterfront has many of Auckland’s attractions and is bustling with restaurants and cafés. The extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas, step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship, then appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup. After all, Auckland is known as the City of Sails.

• You can even spend two hours onboard NZL40 either relaxing and enjoying the view or getting involved as a crew member . NZL40 was built for the 1995 America's Cup challenge at San Diego in the United States. It is now permanently based on the Waitemata Harbour.

• Wander up to the Sky Tower - Admire the view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just have dinner in the revolving restaurant.

• The trendy shops of Parnell are housed in some of Auckland’s oldest latticed fronted buildings on tiny brick-paved lanes.

• Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter are worth stopping here on their own.

• Enjoy a beer in Vulcan Lane or stroll through Cornwall Park

Alternatively you catch the ferry to Waiheke Island and hire a scooter. Head for Te Whau Vineyard Cafe for lunch then Stoneyridge Vineyard for dinner. Better still stay an extra day on the island and have a fantastic brunch at the 1920's style Rocky Bay Cafe followed by dinner at the Mudbrick Cafe on the Church Road Estate near Oneroa. In between you can walk off those calories through the bush and beaches of the Whakanewha Reserve. Or, enjoy fantastic coastal and vineyards views on horseback as you ride from Kataitia Bay through Church Road Estate.

The Coastal Track on Waiheke Island has the added bonus of vineyard cafes and beaches en route! From the wharf, walk along the beach and follow the green and yellow markers around the coast. The path takes you along the cliff-top past exclusive homes, vineyards and olive groves. About ½ an hour along there is a great picnic spot amongst the old Pohutakawa trees with views back to Auckland. At Te Miro Bay you will see a path marked Oneroa, via Nick Johnston Drive. This will bring you eventually to the white sand beach, shops and cafes at Oneroa. You can extend the walk by continuing along the coast past Church Bay, but the views and path and not as good.

40kms - After passing over the bridge in Waiwera the road starts to rise again. 200m up this hill you will see a sign for Wenderholm Regional Park. Turn right into this park. The road will take you down to the beach, which is well worth the small detour. The park has a wonderful grove of Pohutakawa trees, a native with bright red flowers. The other name for these ancient trees is the New Zealand Christmas Tree as they usually flower around Christmas time. The trees are full with native Tui and Fantail birds. The Tui is a black/shiny blue medium sized bird with a white ball of feathers under its chin, and has a beautiful song. The cute little Fantail flits around your head as you disturb the insects while walking. There is a huge picture frame on the northern end of the beach, which makes for some interesting photographs.

45kms - Continue north on SH1. The cute little village of Puhoi is just one kilometre off the main highway. Most residents here are descendants from Bohemian immigrants. It may be a little early to stop at the historic pub (New Zealand slang for `drinking establishment`), but if you drive a further 3 kilometres down this side road there is an excellent café at the cheese making factory called the Art of Cheese, where you can also see the cheese makers at work. The service and cheese platters are excellent here plus there is a large selection of specialty cheeses for sale. Return to SH1 and turn left. 

172kms - I recommend the Town Basin for lunch in Whangarei - turn right into Tarewa Rd and follow `Quayside and Town Basin` signs. The Basin is a wonderful waterfront development full of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and museums. The Clapham’s Clock Museum is world famous - in Whangarei. The collection is daunting, so a guided tour is recommended for enthusiasts. For non-enthusiasts there is an information office from which you can get a peek at the collection.

After lunch it is another 70 kilometres (1 hour) to Paihia, an easy drive through rolling countryside. Alternatively, if you have time you can take the small diversion to Whangarei Falls. At the roundabout at the beginning of the expressway, turn left following the signs to Tutukaka. The 23m falls are more than worth a look and they are right next to the road. Return to SH1.

233kms – Even if the call of nature is not calling, you may want to make a stop at Kawakawa to check out the public toilets designed by Austrian architect Hunterdwasser. He chose Kawakawa to retire and die in and his unique toilets have become world famous. They are not only incredibly beautiful, but also the cleanest you’ll ever have the privilege of using!

248kms - Your first impression of the Bay of Islands may be somewhat disappointing, as the islands are not exactly visible – but believe me, they are out there – all 144 of them. The Rock offers a (very) casual overnight boat cruise around this aquatic playground. You can fish, kayak, snorkel or swim as much as you like as you cruise and stop at many of the islands, hopefully accompanied by dolphins.

After your Bay of Islands experience on the water, you have another day to check out the many land based activities. Suggested activities in the Bay of Islands include:-

• Visit Waitangi – the birth place of our nation. Drive north 2½ kilometres (or take the Put-Put taxi) along the coast. The historical Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House marks the site of the original treaty signing in 1840 between the Maori people and the British Empire. This is the heart of New Zealand’s historical beginnings, with audio-visual displays, an important Marae (Maori meeting house) which is probably the most visited by the Maori today, the beautifully restored Treaty House and a Waka (Maori war canoe).
• Later you can return to Waitangi for the Culture North Night Show. Guests are intimately transported back 1000 years – a unique cultural experience brought to life with sound and light in the carved meeting Maori house.
• Take the ferry across to Russell, a quaint little village which was once the capital of New Zealand! It was also once known as the "hell hole of the South Pacific" between 1830 and 1840, when whore-houses abounded and drunken brawls between whalers and seamen were the norm. Today it is a much quieter place! Russell is recommended for dinner.

Today there is a short drive north, stopping at Matauri Bay – the most scenically beautiful bay in all of New Zealand (I think so anyway!) Our starting point is Paihia wharf, drive north direction Puketona. The first village is Hururu Falls which are themselves rather unspectacular.

14kms – At the T-intersection go right onto SH10. Next stop is Kerikeri which is New Zealand’s top citrus and market-produce growing area. Roadside stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables abound, many operating an `honesty box` - just leave your payment in the box. Kerikeri`s claim to fame is having New Zealand`s oldest stone building. It is on the water and is called the Stone Store. Overlooking the Stone Store is the original Kororipo Pa (Maori fortress), home of the Maori chief Hongi Hika (not to be confused with the famous chief Hone Heke). Across the river Rewa’s Village is an authentic recreation of a pre-European Maori fishing settlement.

There is a loop road that will bring you back to the highway at Waipapa. Travel north along SH10 for another 13 kilometres and turn right to Matauri Bay.

The approach to Matauri Bay has one of the best views in New Zealand - get ready for the `wow` reaction as you begin the descent to the beach. There is a place to park and admire the view immediately on the left. You are looking at the Cavalli Islands.

Matauri Bay is famous for deep sea fishing and diving. If you are a qualified diver, you can dive on the Rainbow Warrior wreck, New Zealand's most famous dive site. You must take the little walk up to the Rainbow Warrior Memorial on top of the hill – the views from the top are awesome. The track is rather steep on loose gravel in the beginning, so be careful. The Rainbow Warrior was a Greenpeace vessel specializing in disrupting French nuclear tests on the Pacific atolls. The French Secret Service bombed her in 1985 while she was tied up at the wharf in Auckland. This ridiculous act of terrorism resulted in the death of one of her crew, plus several others injured – something the New Zealanders have never forgiven France for.

Return up the hill and turn right and follow the coast road – the best place of all to photograph Matauri Bay is 1.5 kilometres from the intersection, the road then follows the picturesque coast through Te Ngaire and Wainui. 

At the Give Way sign, go right into Whangaroa Harbour. Drive through Whangaroa, past the marina and hotel, you will see a road on the right marked `public access to summit`. Keep following the road right up to the top.

If you’re feeling energetic you could walk to the top of St Pauls – the large rock standing tall on your right. The path is unformed and rather steep and slippery at times – just follow the yellow markers. The view from the top is fabulous - however please note that it’s just as good from halfway!

Drive back through Whangaroa to the cross road where you turned right – continue straight towards Kaeo and Mangonui. At the SH10 intersection, go right direction Kaitaia.

34kms – Turn off to Mangonui, famous for its fish and chips, so a great place to stop for lunch as this is a New Zealand specialty. The Mangonui Fish Shop 100m past the wharf holds the official sought after title of `New Zealands best Fish and Chips`. It comes wrapped in paper, so to really eat them New Zealand style, take your packet away with you and eat them on the beautiful Coopers Beach – another 3 kilometres further along the road. There is a beach parking on the right about ½ way along, there is more parking and public toilets down below. The pohutakawa tree-lined beach is just perfect to stroll along.

Leaving the car-park, turn right and continue north via pretty Cables Bay and Taipa where you'll find the excellent Fern Flat Pottery offering a unique collection of distinctly New Zealand decorative works of art. Taipa Beach has the perfect crescent of sand and surf.

66kms – At the SH1 intersection turn left to Kaitaia. On the corner look for the award winning Big River Cafe on the banks of a little stream, with friendly ducks under the willows. I recommend a visit to the Ancient Kauri Kingdom. The exquisite crafts and furniture created here are carved from 30,000 to 50,000 year old kauris that were in the first instance swamped by rising melt waters after the last ice-age, and in the second toppled en-masse by a giant tsunami, thus preserving the beautiful wood perfectly.

Kaitaia is the gateway to Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet and where Maori believe the spirits of their ancestors depart New Zealand for the return journey north to Hawaiki. The northern most point of New Zealand is actually North Cape a little to the east. The thin strip of land north of Kaitaia was settled by Kauri Gum diggers in the late 1800s, most of the settlers were Dalmatians. But to go right to the top you need to stay an extra day here and take one of the many safaris that depart in the morning. Choose one that includes at stop at the Gum Diggers Park.

If you do stay an extra day, you could then stay on the Karikari Peninsula. It has beautiful bays, great beaches and lots of well sign-posted walks. A picnic at secluded Matai Bay is peace epitomized!

You may like to drive out to Ahipara, 14 kilometres to the west. This beach marks the beginning of the Ninety Mile Beach (actually 100kms of uninterrupted sand), which stretches north in a wide sweep from here. Quad-biking along the beach is the specialty here, just ask at the Adventure Centre by the shops. Return to Kaitaia and continue south. At 94 kilometres there is the steep and winding Maungataniwha Range to cross, the rain forest here is particularly lush.

128kms – Just after you cross over the Whakanekeneke River, turn right towards Horeke. Unbelievable as it may seem, but this tiny village used to be the centre of New Zealand. The land was governed from Mission House for the first two years, before they built Government House in Russell. It was also here that the majority of the Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi – contrary to what you learnt at the Waitangi Visitor Centre! The town had New Zealand’s first shipyard and even had a Cathedral that could seat 800! Continue through Horeke past the oldest pub in New Zealand. It was built in 1827 to service the boat builders, go left after the one way bridge. 

143kms - You may like to visit the Wairere Boulders – turn left down McDonnell Road, the park entrance is a further kilometre down this road. There is a lovely 1 hour walk through a strange labyrinth of 3 million year old basalt boulders scattered through this beautiful valley. Some have unique fluting caused by acid dripping from the kauris over thousands of years. This phenomenon has previously only ever been discovered on limestone rocks. Return to the road and go left.

158kms – Turn right, direction Dargaville. Opononi is next, made famous in the fifties by the resident dolphin they named Opo. If you’d like to know more, visit the museum another kilometre along. The Hokianga Harbour is where Maori legend proclaims that the great navigator and explorer Kupe lived until he was an old man before returning to his home land. He discovered New Zealand around 800AD and named it Aotearoa, meaning the `Land of the Long White Cloud`. They then called the area Te Hokianga nui a Kupe - the place of Kupe's great return.

The next village is Omapere, where there are excellent views across the harbour to the giant sand dunes on the other side. The Omapere Wharf is a great place to take a photo of the dunes.

This evening dine early as the Twilight Tour to the Waipoua Forest departs at 6pm. This ecologically significant environment, in former times a home and playground to Maori is brought to life by not only the sounds and potential sightings of its inhabitants but by friendly, experienced and local Maori guides who willingly share their knowledge. Dusk is when the rare and elusive kiwi birds come out from their burrows – you may be one of the lucky to spot one in the wild! This is the perfect way to meet Maori in their own (untouristy) environment.

25kms – You are now entering the Waipoua Forest, one of the few remaining tracks of virgin native forest. It is also home to 300 species of trees. The main attraction here is the much loved giant Kauri Tane Mahuta. At 1400 years old, it is one of earth’s most ancient trees and it stands only a short stroll from the parking. The Kauri are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. From the picnic area there is a lovely view over the forest’s canopy. Only 2 kilometers further along is the parking for the much less touristy and much older giant Kauri Te Matua Ngahere (20 minute walk) and the Four Sisters (only 100m from the parking - recommended). $2 is asked for parking security – it’s worth it! The forest gives you a fair idea of what the vegetation was like when the first settlers arrived - before they set about stripping the land for the timber and for farming. Since 1952 it has been forbidden to cut down a Kauri, so they are making a comeback.

82kms – Dargaville is proud to be the kumara growing capital. Kumara are delicious sweet potatoes brought to New Zealand by the early Polynesian settlers. The museum up on the hill to the west is well worth the visit. In particular the marine section has an extensive collection of treasures found from the numerous ship wrecks along the west coast and treacherous mouth of the Kaipara Harbour.

126kms – Matakohe is home to the excellent Kauri Museum. This museum is one of the best in New Zealand and definitely worth a visit. The café next door is a possibility for lunch today, or if you can wait then the Sahara Cafe in the next village of Paparoa is highly recommended.

Continue south direction Brynderwyn, which isn’t really a place, it is the intersection where SH12 meets SH1. Turn right, direction Wellsford where you turn right to Helensville, following the Twin Coast Discovery route.

215kms – In Kaukapakapa turn left at the little church, direction Waimauku. Stay this evening in a cottage on a winery with a world class restaurant next door. The Hunting Lodge is one of New Zealand’s best known and finest country restaurants having received the Diners Best Country Restaurant of the Year award several years running. Set in the Matua Valley Vineyard, the rural outlook gives the lodge a wonderful relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a meal on the veranda and try the splendid award winning wines from the vineyard next door.

Continue on to the Waimauku Village and cross over the highway and follow the road down to Muriwai Beach - a solitary kind of place, but well worth the diversion to view the entertaining 2500 gannets in action. As you descend towards the beach take the `Gannet Colony` turnoff left - it is an easy 2 minute stroll along flax and pohutakawa lined paths to view the gannet chicks. The first path left leads to the best lookout where you can look directly down onto the nest sites and cute little chicks as well as admire the flying skills as the parents come into land with their two-metre wing spans. The stunning views along Muriwai Beach are a bonus.

Return to SH16 and go right. Beesonline is 1.2 kilometres on the right - a honey centre, restaurant and excellent coffee stop. A pot of pohutakawa honey makes a unique gift for those at home.

Continue towards Auckland city, the highway turns into a motorway to the city. At  ‘spaghetti junction’ follow the signs for Hamilton, south on SH1. After the Bombay Hills, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel.

127kms – Turn left to visit the Shorebird Centre in Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week! There are also thermal hot-pools here.

177kms – Turn right into Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late 1880's this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre. Just after the bridge at the northern end of town, you’ll find Soja Café on the right, for the best coffee in town.

Continue north direction Coromandel Town. The excellent Orchid and Butterfly House at the Dixon Holiday Park just north of Thames is worth a stop. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind, just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! There are places to pull over and take photos all along of this dramatic coastline. At Christmas time you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.

230kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.

• 4.8kms up this road is the Waiau Waterways Garden and café, where whimsical wonders are worked by water. $10 Adults. If you choose not to go in, the café is still a good option. They also sell pottery and garden sculptures at studio prices. If you do choose to go in, there are plenty of whacky contraptions to entertain the young and young at heart. There is a swimming hole and free onsite BBQs - bring your own sausages. They also provide umbrellas, plus toilets (a `long-drop` old style toilet – a rarity these days around New Zealand).
• 6.7kms - If you are feeling energetic, there is the walk to Castle Rock. It will take you about 45 minutes to walk up and 30 minutes to walk down. The track is slippery in places and the last few meters is a bit of a scramble holding onto rocks and bits of tree roots to get to the top, but the view is worth it from the top.
• 7.3kms - The small but delightful Waiau Falls – best viewed from below in the bush glade where there is also a swimming hole.
• 7.9kms - Continue another ½ km to the Kauri Grove parking. This stop is excellent, giving you a real taste for the New Zealand bush without much effort. The bush walk is an easy 10 minute stroll on a level path to 600 year old kauri trees. These trees are magnificent, with native bush wonderfully lush and cool and peaceful. Continue past the first lookout for a lovely circuit past the Siamese Kauri and to the Kauri Grove.

Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5 kilometres. The main street is an old world delight as if almost caught in a time warp - people smile and greet you with a friendly wave and horses trot slowly past 150 year old buildings which still grace the main street  which now house cafés and craft shops.

This morning you could head to the popular Driving Creek Railway for a unique ride at 10am on a narrow gauge train. It winds its way up a zigzagging track that was first built to bring firewood and clay down for the potteries below. There is a great view over Coromandel from the “Eye Full Tower” at the top.

Or you could take the Coromandel Discovery Tour to the very top of the peninsula. Walk the incredibly beautiful Coromandel Coastal Walkway from Fletchers Bay to Stony Bay (3-4 hours, so take lunch and water) where the bus will be waiting to transport you back to Coromandel Township.

Alternatively there is a 1 hour walk to one of the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand! Drive over the hill towards Whitianga and turn left at the bottom of the hill to Whangapoua. As you come into the village, take the first left – this will take you around the far side of the little estuary. Park at the river mouth and follow the track around Motuto Point to New Chums Beach.

0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.  

41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. Continue straight, following the beach to the wharf. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.

72kms – Turn left to Hahei. After 5 kilometres turn right for Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely beach, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Or you could walk from Hahei back south along the beach (1 hour). Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! You can dig a hole on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your very own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand.

Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4 kilometres, your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-

• Walk the coastal track which starts on the northern end of Hahei Beach. The views are excellent - it will take you about 1 hour to reach the cove itself.

• Drive up to the car-park via Grange Road, then walk 45 minutes to the cove.

• Take the Hahei sight seeing boat, departing 10am (no time at the beach).

• Or my recommendation is to join the sea kayaking tour departing at 9am. This is true kiwi experience, includes top quality kayaks and gear, tuition and even a coffee brewed for you on the beach while you take a swim. You can order which ever style – Cappuccino, Mochachino, even an L Baccino (long black). Sea kayaking is a `must do` in New Zealand and this is one of the most beautiful places to try it.

0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.

21kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.

100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine.

Return to town and follow the signs to Tauranga. Just after the village you will see signs left to Waihi Beach (+/- 10kms to the beach). From the northern end of the beach there is another lovely little ½ hour walk that I can recommend to pretty Orokawa Bay. If you continue to the far end, marker posts show the way along a slightly tougher 1.5km bush track to the 28 metre high William Wright Falls.

From Waihi Beach take the loop road south along the beach and turn right after the airport to bring you back to SH2. Morton Estate Winery on SH2 in Katikati is recommended if you need to stock up on some excellent wines!

160kms –As you approach Tauranga, stay in the left lane and follow the expressway to Mount Maunganui. It was once an island with a Maori Pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori, Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`. Today, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, the beach has become a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.

167kms - At the end of the expressway follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge and head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may want to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.

For walks, you have of course the 3.4km Base Track, but there is nothing like the Summit Track for incomparable views. If you are relatively fit it will only take about 30 minutes to reach the summit of Mauao for fabulous 360° views.

Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, following the signs to Paparoa and Te Puke. At the T intersection at 190 kilometres go left, you are now back on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region, watch out for the giant kiwifruit a few kilometres from here. If you’d like to know more about the fruit (and have time) stop for a tour, or just visit their café and souvenir shop where they offer tastings of the original green kiwifruit, Kiwi Gold and the new Baby Kiwi, plus lots of fruit wine and yummy liqueurs.

209kms – Follow SH2 left towards Whakatane. At 243 kilometres SH2 turns right, but you need to continue straight towards Whakatane, your destination for this evening. While in town take a short drive west to the harbour entrance to see the beautiful statue of Wairaka, a Maori heroin who went against Maori laws to save the drifting waka (canoe). If you’ve seen ‘Whale Rider’, you’ll understand how strongly the Maori feel about what is ‘tapu’ or out of bounds. She proclaimed ‘Ka Whakatane au I amu’  which means ‘to act like a man’, hence the city was named after her heroic acts.

I also recommend the drive over the hill to beautiful Ohope Beach.  For the best view of Whakatane turn left at the top of the hill onto Otarewairere Road (just before you start your descent to Ohope) – the first lookout on the right has wonderful views east along Ohope Beach and out to White Island. Continue on this road and take the first left. Follow the road right to the end at Kohi Point (2.3kms) where you will find the remnants of Toi’s Pa and a lookout west down to Whakatane and the river from the point. Toi was one of the original Maori immigrants making this one of the oldest pa sites in New Zealand. Return to the main road and turn left to Ohope - the Café Surfside makes excellent takeaway coffees to be enjoyed on the beach, they also have a great selection of food.

The highlight in Whakatane is without doubt a visit to White Island, an active volcano 50 kilometres offshore. For me the cruise and tour scored a 10 out of 10 for awesomeness. Staring down into the crater’s mouth and stepping around steaming sulphur pools and bubbling mud will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of my life. However the island doesn’t have a wharf, so persons with low mobility are discouraged from taking the trip. Covered shoes are a requirement. A packed lunch is also included. When weather conditions permit and dolphins are spotted, the captain may stop so that you have the opportunity to jump in and swim with the dolphins.

0kms - Departing from the waterfront return to the shops and follow the signs for SH30 to Rotorua. The road skirts Lake Rotoma, Lake Rotoehu, Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotorua which are all flooded volcanic craters. The latter you will probably smell before you see, as the area is still active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell.

72kms - Hells Gate. This is one of your options for this afternoon, if you’d like a mud spa treatment that will leave you glowing. As you arrive in Rotorua, keep following the City Centre signs, this will bring you to the lakefront. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you, and quite frankly, many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:- 

• Kuirau Park has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free! An eruption took place here as recently as 2001 when mud, steam and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land having to be given back to nature.
•  Wander around the original Maori settlement at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore to fill their bath in the out-shed….just follow the steam and stay on the paths! 
• Walk from the Polynesian Spa to the town on the Lakeside Walk via the bird sanctuary at Sulphur Bay. You will also see the remains of the first ever public bath – here Hydrogen Sulphide mixes with Carbon Dioxide to create a mixture similar to the dentist’s laughing gas!
• This evening join the excellent Tamaki Brothers Maori cultural show followed by a traditional Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation are in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus, followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by local Maori.
• Take the Skyline Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha to take in the awesome views. Before dinner, you could ride the down hill “luge” – it is sooooo much fun! There is a scenic track (to begin with) then you’ll be off to the fast track! The free two-seater chairlift takes riders and luge carts back to the top to do it all again, because once is never enough! It's safe too. You're in full control! A unique braking and steering system on your three-wheeled luge cart means you can alter course and speed at will. Go fast, go slow, stop to take photos, you decide. NB:- Height Restrictions apply :-

  Ø      Scenic Track - children under 110cm must ride in tandem with an adult - between 110cm and 135cm, children can ride unaccompanied.

  Ø      Advanced Track - Children over 135cm can ride unaccompanied.

The next day you could :-

• Have a game of golf on the beautiful Arikikapakapa course on the southern end of Fenton Street. On the 9 hole course, the usual hazards are not lakes and sand-traps, but rather steam vents and boiling mud pools!

• The Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland is the best thermal reserve in the area and is highly recommended for today.  

• For non-golfers there are several other tourist attractions vying for your dollar. One possibility is to take an awesome flight over Mt Tarawera

• The Te Wairoa buried village could also be visited this morning

• Or take a 4x4 tour to the top of Mt Tarawera.

• The Agrodome’s principle attraction is the Sheep Show, a highly entertaining explanation of sheep and the caring of said sheep – the mainstay of New Zealand’s exports.

Drive south along Fenton Street on SH5 to Taupo. There are many more thermal attractions to visit today between Rotorua and Taupo. The Lady Knox Geyser at Wai-o-tapu erupts at 10:15am, however this attracts many tourists so I recommend a leisurely swim at the Polynesian Spa before cruising south a little later to avoid the crowds.

29kms - Turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road and take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!

Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland - this is the best thermal reserve in the area. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. The track is uneven at times so you need walking shoes.

Afterwards, take a swim where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Loop Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather - and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road back to SH5 and turn left.

78kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.

• If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater Prawn Park, apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. Look out for Horse, he measures a whopping 70 centimetres, making him the largest prawn to be produced. The informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant. The lawn sweeps down to the river's edge, where jet-boats entertain the tourists with their 360° spins.
• The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet. There are hands on interpretive displays of local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated earthquake.
• The Honey Hive also has interesting interpretive displays, a glass fronted live beehive and the Beez Kneez Café.
• The Huka Falls are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here the sedate Waikato River is forced between a 15 metre gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls are much more impressive from below, where there is a walkway across the river.
• There is another free attraction called the Craters of the Moon volcanic reserve… that is if you’re not all ‘thermalled out’ yet. To reach the reserve after visiting the falls, return to the highway intersection and cross straight over. Follow the road for 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40 minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel as if you’re walking on the moon.

Return to SH1/SH5, go right to Taupo. After 4 kilometres turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo. It was created in one giant explosion and is the world’s largest volcanic crater. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. Most accommodations have wonderful views of the mountains to the south of the lake, which are popular for skiing in the winter and walking in the summer.

Day 13 Taupo - Napier 150kms

Depart by 9am as there is a winery tour at 11am in Napier - from the tourist information office traffic lights travel south along the lake front. The highlight of today’s trip is the ever changing scenery – rugged hills, beautiful valleys, vineyard covered plains and huge vistas.

3kms –Turn left onto SH5, direction Napier. The first part of the trip is through the Kaingaroa State Forest, which stretches from Rotorua to the south of Lake Taupo. It is the largest man-made forest in the southern hemisphere.

54kms – The scenic lookout on the left takes you to a view of the Waipunga Falls next to the road, well worthwhile the stop.

126kms – Eskdale provides a few coffee stop options as well as the first wineries, many offering tasting and cellar sales. Please note that tastings at wineries are usually free and although not compulsory - purchasing is expected to help offset the costs of paying the knowledgeable and helpful staff. Some wineries do charge a little, which is then deducted from any purchases. These can usually be sent overseas. The best way to sample is accompanied with a great meal at a table under the vines! The Hawke's Bay region is the North Island’s top wine producing region. A sunny climate, combined with excellent growing conditions has led to many of the wineries earning gold medals at international competitions.

132kms – SH5 meets SH2, turn right. Esk Valley Estate, 2 kilometres further along on the right, is a favourite of mine and makes a great place to start your own winery tour. They offer door sales and tastings.

141kms – SH2 turns left, following City Centre and Port. Two kilometres later you need to go right at the roundabout and keep following City Centre and Tennyson Street. This will bring you to Marine Parade on the waterfront and the tourist office. Please note that the sea is treacherous around here and swimming is usually banned. Napier was almost totally destroyed in the 1931 earthquake, causing a massive rebuilding program throughout the 30’s, resulting in a vibrant city now known as the Art Deco capital of the world.

My stay in Napier would go something like this:-

• 11am Church Road Winery and museum tour. The garden restaurant is a superb setting for lunch after your tour, accompanied by a trio of tastings.
• Art Deco fans may want to join the walking tour which departs 2pm from The Art Deco Shop on Tennyson Street.
• The Earthquake walk also departs at 2pm from the tourist office on Marine Parade. The entertaining tour concludes with a fascinating look at photos and memorabilia at the Earthquake gallery.
• Alternatively, wander the streets yourself and visit the excellent Hawke's Bay Museum at the beginning of Marine Parade, where special attention is of course given to the 1931 earthquake with a video of survivor’s stories, as well as areas dedicated to the first dinosaur discovery in New Zealand and another to local Maori art.
• Marine Parade has several other attractions, including the National Aquarium of New Zealand for viewing of all things fishy; Marineland – essentially a zoo for dolphins, seals and sea lions (you’ll be seeing these in the wild shortly); Ocean Spa for hot-pools and massage therapy by the sea. My favourite is the Opossum World for a fascinating display of gorgeous soft and warm garments made from that introduced pest that all New Zealanders hate. An estimated 70,000,000 possums eat 21,000 tons of foliage each night – an ecological nightmare for our unique and fragile bush! Please do not feel guilty if you happen to run over a few during your travels, we will be eternally grateful!

Quite a few kilometers to be driven today, so brunch at a world acclaimed winery is recommended in Te Awanga. This is one of Hawke's Bay’s best wineries with an excellent restaurant to match. Follow the road along the coast and just after Clive village, turn left direction Cape Kidnappers and Te Awanga.

23kms – Clifton Beach has some wonderful views of the Cape Kidnappers Cliffs. For those wishing to play at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers Golf Course, enter at the locked gate opposite the woolshed, 200m before the Clifton Bay Café.

26kms – Back track a little to Clearview Estate Winery. Open at 10am for coffee, wine or brunch under the vines. Continue back the way you came, through Te Awanga and Haumoana.

28kms – The small and privately owned Photography and British Car Museum is owned by an eccentric collector who is proud to show off his old favourites. One kilometre further, turn left at the egg farm onto Park Hill Road, then right onto Raymond Road.

31kms – Turn left onto Tukituki Road. Follow this pretty valley until the bridge. The outcrop on the right is called ‘The sleeping giant’, or Te Mata Peak – your next stop.

43kms – Turn right over the bridge and at 49 kilometres turn left towards Havelock. Along this road are several more wineries, including the world renowned Te Mata Winery a little further along this valley. Te Mata Estate is New Zealand’s oldest winery, dating from the early 1890’s. It is a New Zealand family owned winery – a true estate, specializing in grape growing and winemaking from their ten Hawke’s Bay vineyards. Acknowledged as one of only five icon wineries in New Zealand, Te Mata’s completely handmade wines are renowned as the country’s finest.

52kms – Turn left, following the signs to Te Mata Peak. It’s just 6 kilometres to the very top for some awe inspiring views of Hawke's Bay. Tandem paragliding is a favourite past time from this spot. From here it is a 2 hour drive to Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre, recommended not only for the endangered birds, but also for a late lunch. Return down the hill, turn right at the ‘Give Way’ onto Simla Ave and left at the roundabout.

65kms – In Havelock at the main Napier Road roundabout follow left to Wellington and after the Havelock shops veer off to the right, following Te Aute Road, rejoining SH2 south at 74 kilometres. In spring I recommend a diversion to pretty Hastings, particulary during the Blossom Festival. Also the Hawke's Bay Farmers Market at the Showgrounds is well worth a visit on Sundays.

Norsewood is home of Norsewear for natural woolen clothing popular with trampers and farmers alike from all over the world. The factory shop is open 7 days a week. Many Scandinavians immigrated to the area, the Norwegians to Norsewood, the Danish to Dannevirke.

Just after Woodville on the banks of the Mangatainoka River is the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may like to visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.

258kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre is New Zealand’s best for viewing Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DOC (Department of Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here - there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takehe or Tuataras.  

• 3pm Kaka feeding, a cheeky and raucous native bush parrot, cousin to the more noious Kea that lives in the mountains.
• There is also a beautiful walk through ancient forest of Rimu, Rata and Kamahi, a living reminder of what existed before the colonization by man.

Carterton is home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua is unique to New Zealand, the informative display and free tour explains how they are caught in deep water with snorkels and how the inner shell casing is ground down to reveal th