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FAMOUS FILMS
Amazing scenery equals
amazing film locations. New
Zealand is being chosen time and time again by big budget film
producers for her awesome variety of scenery. This itinerary
introduces you to many of those magic locations as a theme to
visiting New Zealand, as chances are it was a film that first
brought our amazing country to your attention. However we can't
resist including a few other attractions in this itinerary, yet to
be discovered by the cinema world.
As a bonus, you will
have the opportunity to watch famous New Zealand made
movies at the actual film
locations on our portable DVD players. If you would like a unique
itinerary drafted to include any additional interests, feel free
to contact us - we will gladly assist you in planning
that perfect vacation.
itinery traveler
We know New Zealand -
we live here.
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Pelennor Fields
- McKenzie
Country |
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Self-Drive Holiday |
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Duration: |
27
nights / 28 days |
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Activities include: |
Beaches, Outdoor Adventure, Sightseeing, Short Walks. |
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Notes : |
North
Island and South Island |
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Featured Films
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The Piano
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Whale Rider
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Lord of the
Rings
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The Last
Samurai
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Lord of the Rings
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Heavenly
Creatures
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Perfect
Strangers
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Vertical
Limit
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Day 1 Arrive Auckland |
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All travellers using
Amazing New Zealand services are
personally met at the airport by our friendly professional
representative.
You will receive at the airport a
comprehensive Deluxe Travel Pack. The pack contains the
prepaid service vouchers, maps, discount vouchers and brochures to
local attractions, plus a detailed daily explanation of driving
routes, including suggested stops en route.
The representative will then take
you to your accommodation in Auckland, stopping en route on the
extinct volcano Mount
Eden to point out the
city's many geographical features and attractions.
Auckland is New
Zealand’s largest city, straddling two enormous harbours and
dotted with 48 extinct volcanic cones. We recommend at least one
day here to recover from your jet-lag.
Suggested activities:-
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The Waterfront has many of Auckland’s
attractions and is bustling with restaurants and cafés.
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Wander up to the Sky Tower - admire
the view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just
have dinner in the revolving restaurant.
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The trendy shops of Parnell
are housed in some of Auckland’s oldest latticed fronted
buildings on tiny brick-paved lanes.
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Kelly Tarlton
was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the
fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter
here
are worth visiting on their own.
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Day 2 Auckland
- Auckland |
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Today I
suggest a day-trip around the outskirts of Auckland -
it is also possible to have
your very own Amazing New
Zealand chauffeur to guide you to our favourite spots.
Head north over the Harbour Bridge to pretty Orewa Beach and
Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast, followed by morning tea in the
original Bohemian settlement of Puhoi.
We then drive inland past wineries
and orchards to the wild black sand beaches of the west coast. The gannet colony at
Muriwai is a must see as not only will the cute chicks and the
flying skills of the adults keep you mesmerized, but the sweeping
views along the surfing beaches north will certainly blow any
jet-lag away. The forests
around Muriwai was used extensively for filming The
Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe scenes. Drive down Rimmer
Road and into the forest to find the camp of Jadis the White
Witch of Narnia.
Some of the beach scenes
for The World's Fastest Indian were also
filmed here. It featured Anthony Hopkins as the New Zealand
motorcycle enthusiast Burt Munro, from Invercargill. If
you have time to reach the very south of the South Island, then
visit Oreti Beach where Burt Munro proved his speed and
racing skills against the local lads.
Heading south
again lunch can be enjoyed at the Bees Online cafe where many honey
orientated products are on sale, or wine lovers should take advantage of having
a chauffeur and dine in a restaurant under the vines of a world class winery.
After lunch I recommend a walk in the lush bush of the Waitakere Ranges
to a secluded waterfall or along a deserted beach, such as the one made famous
in Jane Campion's movie The Piano. Karekare is a favourite
with the locals, for swimming and for walking through the
Pohutakawa Grove. Several episodes of Xena: Warrior
Princess were also filmed here.
Return to Auckland along the Scenic
Drive and take a ferry ride to the old suburb of Devonport - Auckland
is known as the City of Sails, so a venture out onto the water is
an essential part of visiting this city. Take the tour or wander up under your
own steam to North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest
dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean,
clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham
Beach. On your return to the Ferry Building enjoy the sunset and dinner on
the Waterfront.
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Day 3 Auckland
- Rotorua 235kms |
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0kms – Follow SH1 south. Change onto
SH2 at 53 kilometres direction Coromandel Peninsula and
change again at 90 kilometres onto SH27 direction Rotorua.
164kms – Matamata makes a
great coffee stop – try the Workmans Cafe on the left just
past the tourist office (which is on the right just over the
railway tracks.) You may like to take a 2 hour Lord of the
Rings tour from here to the film set of Hobbiton.
The set has been allowed to return to its natural state, so the
tour requires quite a bit of imagination! However the Party
Tree at least still stands. Semi-fans may be contented
with a photo of the ‘Welcome to Hobbiton’ sign on the
traffic island in front of the tourist office. Continue south on
SH27, direction Tirau.
174kms – SH27 goes left and
immediately right. For the imaginative and for those not wanting
to do the LOTR tour, you can picture Hobbiton
hollows and Bag End Row in the hills on the right
immediately after this intersection.
184kms – Tirau - hard to miss
with the giant corrugated iron sheepdog housing the tourist office
and a giant sheep next door which houses the Big Sheep Wool
Gallery. Other tourist shops worth at least a peek at are the
Funky Gift Shop which has some, well, funky souvenirs, the
Jade Factory next door specializes in Maori Koru
necklaces. For something really unique try the Natures Touch
Gallery. The town has a bit of a love affair with corrugated
iron, there are quite a few other imaginative signs right the way
along the main road. Change to SH5 two kilometres further.
You will soon encounter the unusual terrain of the Mamaku
District where mini volcanic cones dot the landscape, some
showing their solidified lava core.
228kms - The Agrodome’s
principle attraction here is the Sheep Show, a highly
entertaining explanation of sheep and the farming of said sheep –
the mainstay of New Zealand’s exports. Other attractions invented
by enterprising New Zealanders on site include Zorbing
(rolling down a hill in a giant plastic ball), Swooping (a
glorified swing), bungee jumping (jump from a massive
height with an elastic cord tied to your ankles), farm tour
(on the back of a tractor) and jet-boating (the art of
speeding in a tiny boat over very little water).
238kms – As you come into Rotorua,
follow the city centre signs. The Kuirua Park will give you
your first taste (or I should say smell) of the volcanic area
around the city. The area is still very active with sulphur
escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry,
you will get used to the smell.
Rotorua sits
squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity
is part of the city’s past and present.
Rotorua
has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there
are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away
from you... and quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off.
But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to
offer plus all that is thermal, then my stay would go something
like this...
Suggested activities:-
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Kuirua Park
has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free!
An eruption took place here as recently as 2001 when mud, steam
and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just
appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land
having to be given back to nature.
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Wander around the original Maori settlement
at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the
Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the
tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore
to fill their bath in the out-shed, just follow the steam and
stay on the paths!
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If
you have time, soak in the reputedly therapeutic thermal pools
at the Polynesian Spa, a delightful but busy public pool.
If you wait until tomorrow morning the spa is less crowded. It
is a wonderful way to start the day - relaxing with stunning
views across the lake.
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The excitement junkies can take the
Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha for awesome views,
interspersed with hair raising rides on a luge (3 levels
available, so suitable for children).
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This evening don’t miss the excellent
Tamaki Brothers cultural show followed by a traditional
Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation
in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus,
followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by
local Maori.
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Day 4 Rotorua - Waihau Bay 226kms |
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The SH30
skirts Lake Rotorua,
Lake Rotoiti,
Lake Rotoma and Lake Rotoehu which are
all flooded volcanic craters.
A short drive
will bring you to Whakatane. Drive west to the harbour
entrance to see the beautiful statue of Wairaka, a Maori
heroin who went against Maori laws to save the drifting waka
(canoe). If you’ve seen ‘Whale Rider’, you’ll understand
how strongly the Maori feel about what is ‘tapu’ or out of
bounds. She proclaimed ‘Ka Whakatane au I amu’ which
means ‘to act like a man’, hence the city was named after her
heroic acts.
Continue west
over the hill . For the best view of Whakatane turn
left at the top of the hill onto Otarewairere Road (just
before you start your descent to Ohope) – the first lookout
on the right has wonderful views east along Ohope Beach and
out to the steaming volcanic island of White Island.
Continue along, take the first left and follow the road right to
the end at Kohi Point (2.3kms) where you will find the
remnants of Toi’s Pa and a lookout west down to
Whakatane and the river.
Return to the main road and
turn left to
beautiful
Ohope Beach
– the Café Surfside does excellent takeaway coffees to
be enjoyed on the beach, they also have a great selection of food.
If you continue along this coastal route, you will eventually
rejoin SH2 to Opotiki.
133kms - Change to the SH35,
following the dramatic coastline west as far as Waihau Bay,
your destination for this evening. Suggested stops en route
include:-
- Taking a 1 hour jet-boat
ride ride deep into the uninhabited lush green wilderness along
the Motu River
- Stop at Te Kaha Hotel
for refreshments on the waterfront
- Swim at Maraehako Beach
- one of the prettiest in New Zealand
- The cute little church
standing idyllically on the headland at Raukokore is
worthwhile a visit
- Call your accommodation
ahead of time and they will probably pop down to the rocks to
catch a fresh crayfish for you!
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Day 5 Waihau Bay - Gisborne 230kms |
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The first part of today's trip
will take you around the East Cape where idyllic bays with
sweeping crescents of golden sand are the norm. Although The
Bounty with Mel Gibson and Anthony Hopkins is not a New
Zealand made film, several of the coastal scenes were filmed along
this coastline.
In Te Araroa
it is possible to take the side road out to New Zealand's most
eastern point. The drive is stunning so well worth the diversion,
plus there are wonderful views to be enjoyed from the elevated
lighthouse. For those who are keen, I advise an early rise to
arrive in time for the sunrise serenaded by skylarks singing to
their hearts content - it really is quite a surreal experience
knowing that you are the first in the world to greet the new day!
On returning to Te Araroa,
check out the massive Pohutakawa tree in front of the
school - it is believed to be New Zealand's largest and is over
600 years old.
Continuing south your first
stop should be the Anglican church in Tiki Tiki. It was
built in memory of the local iwi tribesmen who lost their lives in
the first World War. It is decorated with some fine Maori designs.
The road hits the coast again
at the popular coastal town of Tokomaru Bay. The golden
beach and rocky outcrops are worth exploring.
The 660 metre long wharf at
Tolaga Bay is well worth stopping for. The wharf also marks
the beginning of the 3 hour walkway to the beautiful and secluded
Cook's Cove.
Another 26 kilometres south is
the turnoff to the sleepy coastal village at Whangara. The
little cluster of houses and beach were extensively featured in
the movie Whale Rider. Unfortunately the popularity of the
movie has threatened the peaceful way of life for the locals, so
they may not always be welcoming!
From here it is just 30
kilometres to the city of Gisborne - home to surfers and
wine growers. It is also the first place that Captain Cook
set foot in New Zealand. First stop should be Cook's Landing
Site and National Historic Reserve next to the port and at the
base of Kaiti Hill - if only to look at the view of the
port and across Poverty Bay to Young Nick's Head.
The headland was named in honour of the young cabin boy who first
sited the 'promised land'. He also apparently won a bottle of rum,
the customary reward for the first able seaman to see land. |
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Day 6 Gisborne - Napier 225kms |
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You have time to visit a few of
the attractions this morning before heading to Napier. As
SH2 heads south it climbs the Wharerata Hills offering
awesome views back over the Poverty Bay. If you're
wondering why this fertile area is called Poverty Bay, the
answer is that when Cook first set foot on this land he was not
very successful with his first encounter with the local 'savages'.
He weighed anchor and took flight. He noted in his journal that
"it had afforded us not one thing we wanted" and subsequently
named the area Poverty Bay.
68kms - It is possible to make a
diversion to the desolate and windswept Mahia Peninsula. It
was home to the crew of one of the first migration canoes (the
Takitimu) and had one of New Zealand's largest whaling
stations a few hundred years later. Mahanga Beach on the
Poverty Bay side is a popular surfing beach, Opoutama Beach
on the Hawke's Bay side is more sheltered and therefore
better for swimming.
98kms - Wairoa does not
have much to offer other than a quick coffee break. However it
does mark the intersection where you would turnoff to visit the
Te Urewera National Park - you need an extra 3-4 days to tramp
the popular Waikaremoana Circuit Track. Most of the track
is fairly easy going, apart from the 900m climb to the top of the
Panekiri Range - but wow, is the view worth it!
216kms - The
Hawke's Bay region is the North Island’s top wine producing
region. A sunny climate, combined with excellent growing
conditions has led to many of the wineries earning gold medals at
international competitions. Many wineries offer tasting and cellar
sales. Please note that tastings at wineries are usually free and although not
compulsory - purchasing is expected to help offset the costs of
paying the knowledgeable and helpful staff. Some wineries do
charge a little, which is then deducted from any purchases. These can usually be sent overseas. The best way to sample is
accompanied with a great meal at a table under the vines!
Napier was almost
totally destroyed in the 1931 earthquake, causing a massive
rebuilding program throughout the 30’s, resulting in a vibrant
city now known as the Art Deco capital of the world. Begin
your tour on Marine Parade on the waterfront. Please note that the sea is treacherous around
here and swimming is usually banned.
My stay in
Napier would go something like this:-
- Join the Church Road Winery
and museum tour. The garden restaurant is a superb setting for a
meal after your tour, accompanied by a
trio of tastings.
- Art Deco fans may want to join the walking tour which departs 2pm from The Art Deco
Shop on
Tennyson
Street.
- The Earthquake walk also departs at 2pm from the tourist office on
Marine Parade. The entertaining tour concludes with a
fascinating look at photos and memorabilia at the Earthquake
gallery.
- Alternatively, wander the streets yourself and visit the excellent
Hawke's Bay Museum at the beginning of Marine Parade,
where special attention is of course given to the 1931
earthquake with a video of survivor’s stories, as well as
areas dedicated to the first dinosaur discovery in New Zealand and another to
local Maori art.
- Marine Parade has several
other attractions, including the National Aquarium of New
Zealand for viewing of all things fishy; Marineland
– essentially a zoo for dolphins, seals and sea lions
(you'll be seeing them in the wild soon); Ocean Spa
for hot-pools and massage therapy by the sea. My favourite is
the Opossum World for a fascinating display
of gorgeous soft and warm garments made from that introduced
pest that all New Zealanders hate. An estimated 70,000,000
possums eat 21,000 tons of foliage each night – an ecological
nightmare for our unique and fragile bush! Please do not feel
guilty if you happen to run over a few during your travels, we
will be eternally grateful!
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Day 7 Napier - Taupo 150kms |
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The highlight of today’s trip is
the ever changing scenery – vineyard covered plains, rugged hills,
beautiful valleys and huge vistas. At 96 kilometres look for the
scenic lookout on the right for a view of the Waipunga
Falls next to the road, well worthwhile the stop.
150kms - You will find most of the eating and accommodation
establishments along Taupo's waterfront, offering wonderful views of the
mountains to the south of the lake. Later you can continue through
the town and follow SH1/SH5 north to take in the views from the
lookout over the huge
Lake Taupo. It is actually
the world’s largest volcanic crater, created in one giant
explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples
from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the
explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were
even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free
volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light
pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were
spewed out in that eruption. Just about
everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you will see a
volcano.
Another 4
kilometres north, turn right for the mighty
Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity
Centre and
Prawn Park.
- If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater
Prawn Park,
apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. The
informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are
encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant. The
lawn sweeps down to the river's edge, where jet-boats entertain
the tourists with their 360° spins.
- The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You
are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in
the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet.
There are hands on interpretive displays of
local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale
readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated
earthquake.
- The Honey Hive also has interesting interpretive displays, a
glass fronted live beehive and the Beez Kneez Café.
- The Huka Falls
are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here
the sedate Waikato
River is forced
between a 15 metre gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a
lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls
are much more impressive from below, where there is a walkway
across the river.
- There is another free attraction called the Craters of the
Moon Volcanic Reserve. To reach the reserve after visiting the
falls, return to the highway intersection and cross straight over.
Follow the road for 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40
minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy
billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel
as if you’re walking on the moon.
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Day 8 Taupo - Turangi 197kms |
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Travel north again on SH5 past
the Huka Falls turnoff and the Wairakei International
Golf Course. 34kms -
Turn left and follow this road for 18 kilometres to the Orakei
Korako turnoff - a hidden valley of steaming silica terraces,
mud pools and geysers. The BBC spent months in this surreal
landscape filming the Walking with Dinosaurs series.
A small boat will ferry
you across to the Emerald Terrace, then wooden boardwalks
lead you past 20 active geysers – the Diamond Geyser spews
out boiling water up to 8 metres high. The walk then take you to
the Artists Palette – a colourful silica terrace created by
hydrothermal eruptions more than 10000 years ago. Return to the
turnoff and go right, after 10 kilometres turn right again onto
SH1.
89kms - Change to SH30 and
at 110 kilometres change again onto SH32, south to
Turangi
at the southern end of Lake Taupo, your destination for
this evening.
There are two more short walks I'd
like to recommend - if you have time.
The first is a 2 hour
circular route around Lake Rotopounamu - meaning greenstone
lake in reference to it's (sometimes) emerald-coloured water.
From Turangi drive north on SH41 and turn left onto
SH47A - the car-park is 6 kilometres further. The density of birds
in the bush here is marvellous - a sure sign of a healthy forest.
There are three beaches en route - however the water is freezing
to say the least!
The second is a 15-minute
walk departing from the Tokaanu Mud Pools, 5 kilometres
north of Turangi. The track wanders along spongy paths with
plopping mud-pools and swirling steam to accompany you through
this mysterious geological world. The Maori have used these
springs for cooking and bathing in the curative warm waters for
more than 500 years. |
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Day 9 Turangi – Whanganui River 130kms |
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Allow at
least 1 ½ hours to get to the jet-boat meeting point. Continue
south on SH1 along what we call the
Desert Road.
The road crosses a high plateau which experiences mountainous
weather conditions as it skirts the three volcanoes of Mount
Tongariro, Mount
Ngauruhoe and Mount
Ruapehu. The
three make up the
Tongariro
National Park
- Peter Jackson used the area extensively as Middle Earth
scenery, with Mount
Ruapehu as Mt Doom.
62kms –
Waiouru is home of the QEll Army Memorial Museum, turn
right onto SH49 to Ohakune, where you need to stay on SH49
(left) to Raetihi.
100kms - In
Raetihi, cross over the highway and follow the road leading
to the Whanganui River Road – the last 16 kilometres before
you hit the river is unsealed, so you can’t drive very fast. Once
you reach Pipiriki, continue straight through the village –
follow the "coffee" signs to the end. For security reasons this is
where you should park.
Wander down
to the wharf where the yellow/blue Bridge to Nowhere Jetboat
will pick you up anywhere between 10:30am and 11am. Joe will be
along shortly to transport you to his farm further upstream deep
(deep, deep) into the Whanganui
National Park.
There aren’t any roads, so the river is the only means of
transport. The river has the title of 'longest navigatable river'
in New Zealand - I would like to bestow it with the title of 'most
beautiful river' in New Zealand as well! The steep sided gorges
are just awe-inspiring to say the least, with rapids and bush clad
hills to make the trip incredible. Additional stops include all
the film locations of the recently released River Queen.
After
dropping your bags off at the farmhouse Bridge to Nowhere Lodge,
he will take you further upstream for a 40 minute easy bush walk
into the Valley of Abandoned Dreams where you eventually
emerge onto the Bridge to Nowhere (hence the name). There
is also the opportunity to kayak back to the lodge after your
walk. This is a farm-stay experience with a difference far away
from civilization in a farmhouse with wrap around decks, offering
fabulous views of bush clad hills and the stunning river. As Joe
played host to all the cast and film crew, he has plenty of
stories to tell you. |
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Day 10 Pipiriki - Urenui 288kms |
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The jet-boat
will return you to Pipiriki around 11am – return to
Raetihi and turn left onto SH4 north to National Park
Village - the gateway
to the Tongariro
National Park. It
was gifted
to the New Zealand people in 1887 by the Ngati Tuwaretoa
tribe and is now a World Heritage area.
Turn right onto SH47 and then
take the side road towards the Whakapapa ski-field. After
another 4 kilometres there is a 20 minute walk to the Tawhai
Falls, where the tree-lined river tumbles over a ledge of lava
into a rock pool below.
83kms - Continue up SH48 past the
Chateau to the Iwikau Alpine Village, from where
you can wander (in summer) over the bad-lands of Mordor to
your heart's content. Meads Wall beside Pinnacle Ridge
is where they filmed Sam and Frodo capturing
Gollum. Other outcrops depicted the rocky wastelands of
Emyn Muil, as the Hobbits tried to find their way to
Dagorland. The mountain also provided the backdrop as Mt
Doom steaming away,
the epicenter of Evil and home of Sauron.
It doesn’t usually steam, but it did erupt as recently as 1995.
Return down the mountain to
National Park and turn right to
Taumaranui. Seven kilometres
north of the National Park Village, train buffs can check
out the impressive Raurimu Spiral from the viewing
platform. The track rises by means of a complete circle, three
horseshoe curves and two tunnels. Alternatively, check out the
working model at the Taumarunui tourist office.
147kms – Travel west on
the ‘Forgotten World Highway 43’, certainly a step back in
time. Please note that fuel, food or refreshment stops are a
scarcity for the next 120kms!
181kms – At the top of the
hill stop at Nevin’s Lookout, for panoramic views of the
King Country and the mountains. Just after Tatu the
landscape turns prehistoric through the Tangarakau Gorge.
Coal was mined at several locations in the gorge and small pockets
of coal can still be found adjacent to the Gorge site sign.
212kms – At the bottom of
the hill, turn right onto the Okau Road. About 20 minutes
along this road you will find Mount Damper Falls, at 78
metres they are the 2nd highest in New Zealand. The
short walkway is well sign posted - climb over the stile and take
the track beside the creek and over open farmland. After 10
minutes you will cross a swing bridge, where the bush starts.
Descend with care (the path has a slippery clay base) towards the
bottom which will take another 10 minutes. Toilets are available
at the car-park. After returning to your car, continue to Okau
and Ahititi.
255kms – At the Ahititi
junction, turn left onto the SH3, south to New Plymouth.
After 15 kilometres you will see a farm called Uruti - the
small side road leads to a private farm where many of The Last
Samurai’s scenes were filmed with the perfectly round volcano
of Mount Taranaki in the background cleverly filling in for
Japan’s Mount Fujiyama.
From here it is just
another 30 kilometres to Utrenui, your destination this
evening - a small seaside village just before New Plymouth. |
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Day 11 New
Plymouth - Wanganui 215kms |
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Continue south to New
Plymouth. There are several possibilities here :-
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The Coastal
Walkway, with views of the Sugar Loaf Islands. The
islands support an abundance of wildlife, including a fur-seal
colony and thousands of roosting seabirds. The undersea wildlife
are protected within a marine reserve.
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The
Pukekura Park up on the hill has a lake with gorgeous
reflections on a calm day.
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Brooklands
next door is famous for the Rhododendrons in spring.
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The
Paritutu Plug is a spike of 2 million year old solid lava.
There is a track to the top departing from the car-park directly
behind the (eyesore of a) power station. The lucky may even be
rewarded with views of hump-back whales and orcas!
38kms – Head south to Stratford on
SH3. Your first stop should be Lake Mangamahoe which offers
beauty and serenity, a photographer’s dream. Drive to the end of
the side-road and take the track on the right up to the lookout.
From here Mount Taranaki reflects beautifully and is framed
by Punga trees.
71kms - In Stratford, turn right towards
Cardiff and Mahoe, then follow the signs up the
mountain to Dawson Falls. Today is dedicated to exploring
Egmont National Park - Mt Egmont is the English name
for Mt Taranaki. The dormant volcano last erupted as
recently as 350 years ago and once had a twin peak, which
shattered in some cataclysmic explosion centuries before.
96kms - Visit the Dawson Falls
Information Centre first for information about the park. There
are limited snacks and non-recommendable coffee available from the
Lodge. For a view of the waterfall itself, return 300 metres down
the road to the Kapuni Loop Track (1 hour). A circular15
minute walk along a goblin-forest like track brings you back to
the road, where you can continue on the full Loop if you
wish. The first part is steep, as is the side-track to the base of
the falls (not necessary), after which the path becomes much
gentler and offers a better view of the falls from above - not
extraordinary, however the walk is lovely. Return down the hill
and continue straight to Manaia where you turn left at the
roundabout to Hawera.
129kms - Just past
Hawera you will see
Dairyland,
the dairy industry’s equivalent to the Agrodome back in
Rotorua. It has a revolving café plus interesting interactive
displays concerning all there is to know about cows. We do have
excellent cows as well you know, not just sheep! We are indeed a
proud farming nation. Besides, it makes an excellent excuse for
coffee. Continue on to Wanganui, another 84 kilometres from
here.
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Wanganui City
lies on Whanganui River - New Zealand's longest
navigatable river. The English settlers forgot to put in the 'h'
when naming the city - hence the different spellings.
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The main street is full
of flowering hanging baskets and beautifully restored historical
buildings.
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You can stroll across
the Wanganui City Bridge to the pedestrian tunnel
(through the Maori entrance next to the steps) which travels 205
metres inside the hill and leads to the earthbound Durie Hill
Elevator, which will take you up to the War Memorial
Tower. The tower is built of fossilized shell rock, and
commands an impressive view over the city, river and coastline,
plus Mt Taranaki to the northwest and Mt Ruapehu
to the northeast.
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The Sarjeant Gallery
is a nationally acclaimed art gallery - the city just oozes art,
boasting a stable of celebrated artists as well as international
fine arts students from the city's Polytech.
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Day 12 Wanganui
- Martinborough 225kms |
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Continue south on SH3.
The next town is Bulls where SH3 joins SH1. The town was
named after one of the first settlers Mr. James Bull….so has
nothing to do with the black four legged variety. That hasn’t
stopped the town having a bit of fun though – I spotted the
Bullocks Gravel Centre, Bulls Eye Café, Ye Auld Bull,
the Forgive-a-bull church service, the Const-a-bull
police station, the Extinguish-a-bull fire station, and so
on. From January to March, keep an eye open for fields of bull-ti-ful
sunflowers.
50kms - The
two highways split again - continue straight on SH3 to
Palmerston North.
Rugby fans may want to stop and
visit the Rugby Museum, where many a fanatic has made the
pilgrimage to pay homage to our All Black heroes, past and
present. Continue on SH3 through the impressive Manawatu Gorge.
100kms
- In Woodville turn right onto SH2 to Masterton. On
the banks of the Mangatainoka River 13 kilometres later you
can’t miss the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a
New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by
women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may want to
visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.
158kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre
is New Zealand’s best for viewing our unique native birds the
Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DoC (Department of
Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here and
there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café
sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takahe or
Tuataras (lizards from the time of the dinosaurs).
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1.30pm
Feeding of the huge 80 year old wild eels, who
instinctively seem to know the time.
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3pm
Kaka feeding, a cheeky and
raucous native bush parrot, cousin to the more noious Kea
that lives in the mountains.
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There is also a beautiful walk
through ancient forest of Rimu, Rata and Kamahi, a
living reminder of what existed before the colonization by man.
181kms
– At the first roundabout in Masterton, turn right
direction Wellington
and continue to follow the signs through town. Next you come to
Carterton, home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua
is unique to New Zealand. The informative display explains how
they are caught in deep water with snorkels and how the inner
shell casing is ground down to reveal the beautifully patterned
colours. OK agreed, some of the items on sale are painfully
kitsch, but somebody must buy them otherwise they wouldn’t
continue to make them. However many other items are unique and
useful, not to mention stunningly beautiful, so will make a
perfect souvenir.
207kms
– Turn left to Martinborough, a unique wine village and
your destination for this evening. There are 20+ boutique wineries
specializing in Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines, many within
staggering distance of the
Village Square.
The wine centre is the best place to start your sampling, followed
by a memorable meal at any one of the excellent cafés. |
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Day 13
Martinborough -
Wellington 205kms
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Today I’m
taking you to the very edges of earth on the wild southern coast of the North
Island, visiting Cape Palliser’s candy striped lighthouse, the sea-lion
colony, the baby bulldozers at Ngawi and the Putangirua Pinnacles
where Legolas told the chilling story of the Army of the Dead
while riding up the Dimholt Road. There are no shops or restaurants, so
you need to take some food and refreshments with you! The highlight in my eyes
is definitely the walk to the Pinnacles, an unusual valley of scree that
has been compacted and lifted out of the sea, rising to a height of 200 metres.
The erosion of the land over the millennia has left fingers of gravel spires and
turrets topped with a harder stone which provide some, let’s say, interesting
views. From below you feel the full force of what nature can inflict on this
earth, from above you get a fuller picture of the valley – and it’s awesome. The
walk is a bit of a scramble to say the least over river boulders, debris and
fossils, but the adventure is more than worth the small effort. We met some 70+
year olds the day we made the walk and they were bubbling with enthusiasm. So I
have decided to recommend this to all, because if they can do it then I’m sure
you can too!
0kms – Departing from the Village
Square, head south along Jellicoe Street, direction Lake Ferry.
32kms – Left, direction Cape Palliser.
The Putangirua Pinnacles Reserve car park is on the left at 46kms. The
walk will take you about 3 hours if you walk to the base of the
Pinnacles, then up to the lookout and back down the bush track.
You need to follow the stream for 35 –
45 minutes, until the 1st streambed branching off to the left. When
we did it, most of the track was washed away and we had to make several
crossings of the stream. After we visited the base of the Pinnacles, we
returned down the smaller streambed to the orange marker 100m before the bottom
– this leads to the steep track that will take you up to the lookout….strenuous,
but wow, what a view. We then continued on the bush walk back to the car park.
Admittedly it’s a bit of an adventure getting there, but as my husband declared
" it’s a world wonder”. After the walk, departing from the car park, turn
left.
65kms – Ngawi is home to the baby
bulldozers with imaginative names such as “Tinky Winky” and “Babe”. Their owners
are crayfishermen and fishermen, the only source of income in the area.
72kms – Cape Palliser. The rocks
and beach between Mangatoetoe and the lighthouse are home to thousands of
sea-lions, a seemingly harmless blob of blubber. You can easily approach
within metres, but be sure not to stand between the animal and their escape
route to the sea. Return along the coast.
112kms – Right, direction
Martinborough and at 125kms, left direction Featherston.
154kms – Featherston is the first
opportunity for a café stop, however there is a better choice with a view in
another 10 kilometres if you can wait. The town housed New Zealand’s largest
army training base during WW1, with about 35000 troops passing through the camp
before they had to walk the Rimutaka Hill to
Wellington to be shipped overseas. Quite a formidable feat you’ll realize
once you’ve negotiated the tortuous “hill” yourself by car. Messines in Belgium is
twinned with this little town because New Zealand troops recaptured it from the
Germans in June 1917.
165kms – The Summit car park and
café is on the right – pass over the median strip with care! There is a great
view of Lake Wairarapa and the coast to the east and of
the Rimutaka Incline to the west, where the specially built Fell Engine train climbed
the steep 265m slopes.
172kms – Turn right to the
Kaitoke Regional Park. Drive down Waterworks Road to
the car-park. The LOTR location of Rivendell can easily be
found, where there is an interpretive display explaining it all on
the site. There was a large set built here, including the bedroom
where Frodo recovered from his knife wound. The
Pakuratahi River
is ideal for swimming in summer. The whitewater
adventure-thriller Without a Paddle with Burt Reynolds was
filmed on the rivers - and not in
Oregon! Return to the highway and turn right onto SH2.
189kms
- The Gardens of Isengard are at
Harcourt Park
on
Akatarawa Road
next door to the Harcourt Holiday
Park. Here Gandalf and Saruman met to discuss
the re-emergence of the Ring - a gravel road bordered by a
chain-linked fence was laid as the entrance into Isengard.
The park saw several trees being cut down by Orcs to
provide fuel for Saruman’s furnaces. Actually, the trees
were transplanted here for the scene, which required them to be
`uprooted’ time and again for retakes. While here, you may wish to
visit the Wellington Fault Line, where you can see where a
large earthquake has lifted the ground . Return to SH2.
As you descend down to
Wellington,
you will be following the
Hutt River. The river
supplied many of the River Anduin scenes. If you walk the
Hutt River Trail south from Totara Park you may
recognize where Aragorn was nudged by his horse in the
river after the attacks by the Wargs in Rohan.
From here it’s all downhill, literally,
to Wellington.
It is not the largest city but it
does lie central to the two islands and is therefore the capital. The
wonderful attraction of this city is that it is so compact. In
just 15 minutes you can go from the boutique shopping of
Lambton Quay to the beach at Oriental Bay! If you do not require your hire-car tomorrow, then consider returning it
today - you will be picking up a new one in the South Island.
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Day 14 Wellington |
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A day off
from driving! There are numerous
attractions to be enjoyed today :-
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The main attraction here
is the free National Museum of Te Papa. You can easily
spend hours engrossed here - if only you visit the excellent
Maori heritage section.
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The best place to start
your visit to Wellington is Mount Victoria Lookout
for awesome views of the city and harbour.
Here the Hobbits fearfully
hid from the Nazgûl. Drive up
Alexandra Road
to the summit for sweeping views
of the city, then walk down the track.
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Visit Courtney Place
for lunch and later I recommend dinner at the White House.
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The Parliamentary
District is interesting to wander around - the Beehive
houses various government offices! There is a free tour of
Parliament House.
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Be sure to take the
Cable Car up the steep hill up to Kelburn behind the
city centre and wander back down through the magnificent
Botanical Gardens.
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Wellington is
home of the Weta Workshop, makers of the Lord of the
Rings Trilogy. There are several guided day tours on
offer to the main filming sites in and around the city.
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Weta Workshop
also created King Kong here at their studios as well as
recreating New York in a large warehouse in Henderson,
Auckland.
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Day 15 Wellington – Christchurch |
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Today you cross to the South Island on the
morning ferry. However a better description would be to call it a
scenic cruise! After crossing the tempestuous Cook Strait,
the ship winds its way through the very scenic Marlborough Sounds! A sound is a flooded
river valley as opposed to the flooded glacial valleys called
fiords (the 'sounds' in the south of the West Coast are misnamed).
Picton was named after Sir Thomas Picton - a British
General killed at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.
The TranzCoastal train departs at 1pm
for Christchurch. This is one of the world's most scenic train
journeys, with the Kaikoura Mountain Range on one side of
your train and the rugged Pacific Ocean coastline on the
other. The TranzCoastal includes an open air viewing
carriage where all your senses are awakened with the clean, fresh,
sea air.
The rugged coast is home to a
diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range.
Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks.
Watch also for the whales -Kaikoura
is one of the best places in the world to view whales! A deep-sea
canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then
attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales.
However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the
females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator. Sperm
whales can dive to a depth of 2 kilometres and stay submerged for up to 2
hours and can swim at 40km/h. If you have an extra day, you can
break your journey and stay in Kaikoura so that you will
have time to do the Whale Watch excursion.
Christchurch is New
Zealand's second largest city which sprawls across the
Canterbury Plains towards the
Southern Alps.
The main attractions here are the 748 English style gardens and parks,
the city even has its very own
Avon River
on which one can punt. It has an
English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal
blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites
evident everywhere. The best way to orientate yourself with the
city's attractions is on the tour
aboard a beautifully restored tram which provides commentary about
the various sites along the way.
Other
attractions in
Christchurch worth
considering are :-
-
Cathedral
Square has a Gothic Revival style to it - watch out for the
resident Wizard, a famous eccentric who often expresses
his views from a soapbox somewhere in the square.
- Visit the Canterbury Museum (free) for their informative
Antarctic display and impressive Maori collection
- The excellent International Antarctic Centre near the airport
is where you can experience all there is to know about the icy
continent
- Mona Vale is a beautiful
Edwardian-style homestead set amongst 5 1/2 ha of beautiful
gardens.
- Play golf at Clearwater Estate, an extremely beautiful 72
hole championship course. The Russley Course is one of the
"Top 100 Golf Courses in the World"
- Take a leisurely bicycle tour of the city – not a hill to be
found
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Day 16 Christchurch - Akaroa - Christchurch 180kms |
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Today there is a day trip planned
to Akaroa Harbour and Lyttleton Harbour which are
actually 2 giant craters formed by violent volcanic eruptions –
together they make up the Banks Peninsula. Originally it
was an island, but over the millennia the alluvial rivers have
brought down the glacial debris from the Southern Alps,
slowly joining the two and creating the Canterbury Plains.
0kms – Pickup your new hire car
and take the SH75 to Akaroa, (1 hour without stops).
Possible stops en route include Little River Craft and Gallery
(56 kilometres) and Barry's Bay Cheese Factory (73
kilometres) for cheese tastings. Lunch at French Farm is
also highly recommended, depending on what time you left.
68kms - The Top of the Hill
Cafe at the summit is a must before you
make your way down to the harbour, if only to stop and look at the
view.
From here it
is another 20 kilometres to Akaroa. In 1835 French whaler
Jean Langlois established a whaling station in the harbour at
French Bay
and bought some land from the Maori. Once he had secured the deal
he returned to France to organize a group of settlers to come and
establish a community. Unfortunately the English had placed the
whole of New Zealand under British sovereignty only 13 days
before, so the French settlers were forced to sell their claims.
They did however stay, bringing both their rich French character
and their culture to this far flung outpost of France.
Akaroa’s
other attraction are of course the tiny and very rare Hector’s
Dolphin. These are the only dolphins endemic to New Zealand,
with the majority of them using this sheltered harbour as their
home. It is a beautiful and privileged experience to be able to
swim with these friendly and inquisitive mammals.
I can recommend the scenic
route back to
Christchurch via the
beautiful but winding road along the crater rim, offering stunning
views along the way – access to the Summit Road is one
kilometre back, the road sign says Eastern Bays. At the top
turn left to follow the Tourist Drive - this has to be THE
most awesomely scenic route you'll ever drive in the whole world,
the views down both sides really are spectacular!
122kms - Back at the Top of
the Hill Cafe turn right and head back to Christchurch
for 37 kilometres. At the Blue Duck Cafe turn right to
return to Christchurch via the Lyttleton Harbour -
the second of the craters that make up the Banks Peninsula.
After passing over the Gebbies Pass, turn left to
Governors Bay.
175kms - Turn left to return
to Christchurch via the very spectacular scenic route over
the top of the Port Hills via Dyers Pass and the Sign of the Takahe.
The latter is an historic gothic-style "English Manor" built as a
resting point in 1908. The building and gardens were used by Peter
Jackson in his ground breaking film Heavenly Creatures. The
film featured Kate Winslet and Melanie
Lynsky in their screen debuts as two school girls in love - the
thought of being separated drove them to murder, right here in the
gardens of the restaurant! Today, the Sign of the Takahe
offers a fine dining experience and awesome views over the
Canterbury Plains. |
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Day 17 Christchurch - Mount Somers
140kms |
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You can spend as long as you like in
Christchurch before driving to the foothills of the
Southern Alps. Head west on SH73
52kms - In Darfield
turn left onto SH77 direction Glentunnel and Mt Hutt.
92kms -
The road crosses the alluvial
Rakaia River
next. For excellent views of the
gorge you should park by the first bridge and cross over the road
to the little walkway. Walk as little or as far as you like but
the views are best at the beginning. It is also possible to drive
onto the riverbed.
100kms
– Mt Hutt
Station (ranch) on your right is one of the largest deer farms
in the world. Turn left to Methven - a bustling ski
resort by winter servicing
Mount Hutt
and a quiet country town in the summer.
Be sure to buy picnic supplies for
tomorrow and fill up with petrol! Take the road next to the
tourist office, direction Mt Somers and at 10 kilometres
later turn left onto SH72 again. |
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Day 18 Mount Somers
– Mt Cook 340kms |
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Today I am taking
you to the very centre of Middle-Earth, hidden deep in the
Southern
Alps. |
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Head inland
towards the high country sheep stations of
Mount
Potts and Erewhon (an anagram for 'nowhere'!) You
really do feel as if you are in the middle of nowhere as you
travel through the tussocked and exposed land. Be aware that you
are now in the alpine region, where weather and temp-eratures can
change dramatically within hours. The 50 kilometre unsealed road
will take you deep into the mountains to the head of the
Rangitata River. |
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35kms
– Turn right onto Mt Pocession Street for an awesome view
of the Alps across the trout infested Lake Clearwater – the
holiday settlement is full of tiny basic holiday homes that we
call a bach. The lake is popular for bird watching, kayaking,
wind-surfing and trout fishing. The scenery changes dramatically
after this as the road meanders through the huge high country
farms to reveal your first breath-taking view of the massive
glacial valley. The elaborate set of the Golden Hall of Edoras
was purposely built on Mt Sunday. One of my favourite
scenes from the LOTR Trilogy was of Éowyn gazing across the
valley in deep thought and my absolute favourite scene was of
Aragorn returning by horse to Helms Deep after his
disappearance over the cliff, which was filmed further up the
Rangitata Valley.
My ultimate dream would be to
ride myself up that grassy knoll, with awesome views of the valley
below framed by the massive
Southern Alps...
I’ll keep you informed.
51kms - Follow
the road past Mt Potts Station and park just after the
cattle-stop (judderbars that animals can not walk over) – the road
continues for another 4 kilometres to Erewhon Station. It
is permissible to walk to Mt Sunday but it does involve
getting your feet wet several times. It is not really a mountain
by a small rocky knoll in the middle of the valley that escaped
the destruction of the advancing glaciers. We failed in our
attempt on the fourth crossing, however it was an adventurous and
humbling experience trekking as tiny insignificant specks through
morass and icy cold streams surrounded by massive snow-capped
mountains. We retreated and found the most perfect picnic spot on
a grassy bluff 200 metres up the hill from our car – in fact the
best picnic spot I have ever found in the world, it even bet the
picnic we had dangling our legs over the edge on top of Table
Mountain in Cape Town! You may even feel spiritually uplifted (as
I was) after your visit - it may have something to do with the
source of the river being fed by the Garden of Allah Glacier
and the Garden of Eden Ice Plateau! Return to Mt
Somers and turn right, direction Geraldine
152kms - Geraldine is a
great place for a coffee and has a few attractions worth stopping
for. You can choose from:-
- A larger than fair
smattering of arts and crafts galleries.
- The Vintage Car
Club and Machinery Museum
has a sizable collection of cars,
tractors and aircraft.
- The Giant Jersey
has, you guessed it,
the largest jersey in the world, plus lots of woolly stuff on
sale.
- Barker's Berry
Barn is a specialty
shop, where you'll find a huge range of fruity liqueurs and wines,
plus unique gift and gourmet items.
- Kiwi Country
is purpose built for the tourist buses and is full of the usual
souvenirs. However it does have excellent coffees and toilet
facilities.
- Try the Swiss-style
Florentines at
Chocolate
Fellmann - the prices ensure they are sold fresh
Turn right
at the tourist office to Fairlie, where you join SH8 to
Lake Tekapo.
The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass.
You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, a flat expanse of
tussock grasslands and home to New Zealand’s highest mountain
Aoraki (or Mt
Cook as it is known in English) plus the longest glacier Tasman
with sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the rolling foothills
of the Southern Alps -
and it bears little
resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.
240kms – The
village at Lake Tekapo
is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and
clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here
beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the
Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog. The gorgeous
turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles
suspended in the water.
255kms –
Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel
along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the
Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of
our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or
sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of
Mt Aoraki across the opaque
Lake Pukaki.
285kms
– Turn right onto SH80. The 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount
Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman
and Hooker Glaciers encompasses world-class scenery at
its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista
before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the
Mount Cook National Park. The adrenalin-charged action
thriller Vertical Limit was filmed entirely on location
here, with Mount Cook standing in for K2, the world's second
highest mountain. On arrival you can choose from:-
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Several different
alpine walks with wonderful views
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Scenic flights
either by ski plane or helicopter, guaranteed to be THE trip of
your lifetime!
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Glacier Explorer
Trips involve walking
to Tasman Lake
and then taking an informative boat ride to the face of the
advancing glacier
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Eat, drink and just
relax in the Hermitage while enjoying the incredible views
that lie before you.
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Day 19
Mt Cook - Cromwell 210kms |
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You can stay as
long as you like before heading off to Cromwell. The
Hooker Valley walk is one of the most popular in the area.
Park at the White Horse Hill camping and follow the
Hooker River. There are massive views of Mt Sefton and
the shrunken Mueller Glacier, past an Alpine Memorial
and over two swing-bridges until the final destination of the
terminal lake at the bottom of the Hooker Glacier. Here
Mt Aoraki looms ahead with great walls of ice up on the left
and buttresses of rock tower over the foaming river to the right.
The walk takes approximately 2 hours one way, you can shorten the
walk by returning after reaching one of the landmarks along the
way, for example by only walking to the first swing-bridge.
Alternatively
there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can
try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an
oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to
score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby).
There is the Pelennor Fields tour - probably guided by a
Rohirrim or Gondorian extra, the tour also gives a
highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming.
Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto
a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way
down. Or visit the Department of Conservation's hide to
view the Kaki Black Stilt. There is a 1 hour guided tour
with commentary on the management program of these endangered
birds. There are only around 40 of these birds left in the world
and this is the only colony!
0kms –
Return along SH80 to Twizel, head south on SH8 via the
scenic Lindis Pass.
Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman
Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.
210kms - It
is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous
in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th
century. Cromwell is one of the sunniest, warmest places in
the South Island (in the summer that is), making it ideal for
growing fruit trees and the region is fast becoming renowned for
fine Pinot Noir wines. The Mount Difficulty Vineyard
towards
Bannockburn
has fine wines as well as expansive views.
Bannockburn
also has gold mines to explore, otherwise the Goldfields Mining
Centre in the Kawarau Gorge
is well worth
the stop,
6 kilometres further along the road to Queenstown. |
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Day 20
Cromwell – Glenorchy 106kms |
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Today your drive takes you
through the dramatic Kawarau Gorge, then through
Queenstown to the head of Lake Wakatipu where you will
find a little place called Paradise – yes, it does exist.
This whole area was used extensively in filming the Lord of the
Rings Trilogy, so I will mention several of these locations
today.
Half way along the gorge is
the excellent Gibbston Valley Winery. Next you will come to
the Kawarau River Bridge, home to A.J. Hackett's very first
bungee jumping platform. This is where you get to tie a
huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the
river, or just have fun watching others. If you turn left to
Chard Farm just before the bridge and drive just a short
distance up this road, you can see the location of the Pillars
of the Kings on the River Anduin.
Continue on to Queenstown.
However our destination this evening is further along, at the far
end of Lake Wakatipu via the scenically superb lake side
drive.
Stop at Twelve Mile Delta and walk down to the river
towards the lake and you may recognize the bank to your right as
the hiding place of Frodo, Sam and Sméagol as they
watched the approach of the oliphants in Ithilien,
just behind is where Sam and Sméagol discussed the
cooking of ‘coneys with taters’.
Down by the lake you
can observe the strange seiches
phenomenon - this is an unusual rhythmic rise and fall of 12cm in
its water level every five minutes due to variations in
atmospheric pressure. A Maori myth says it is the beating of a
monster's heart lying in the depths of
Lake Wakatipu!
The walk will take you along to the next plateau, from where
Faramir gazed out across the lake and Ithilien.
Continue on
to Glenorchy, home of the most scenic jet-boat ride in the
world (another New Zealand invention). You can take a thrilling
ride up the Dart River tomorrow into the very heart of the
Mt Aspiring National Park - there is an option to raft back
down....amazing! There are plenty of Trilogy stops and stories
along the way as you pass Isengard, Llothlórien and where
Merry and Pippin were captured by Orcs near
Amon Hen. Horse-trekking through the Forests of
Lothlorian is also recommended. |
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Day 21 Glenorchy - Queenstown 45kms |
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After your morning thrill up the
Dart River,
head back to Queenstown - the Adventure Capital of the
World! The beautiful resort was originally named as 'fit for a
Queen' and lies on Lake Wakatipu. In winter the resort
fills up with skiers.
The sheer breadth of tourist activities available here is
impossible to list, however the ' in-thing' at the moment are
tours that have anything to do with the numerous Lord of the
Rings filming locations. One of the most spectacular and
affordable scenic flights in the world is the 2 hour Trilogy
Trail, with plenty of commentary and behind the scenes
'anecdotes' along the way.
This evening ride the
Skyline Gondola to take in the awesome views - best viewed at
sunset when the Remarkables Range on the other side of the
lake glow in golden light. In winter the view is even better with
the mountains covered in snow! |
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Day 22 Queenstown |
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A day to enjoy Queenstown and all she
has to offer, such as :-
- Fly into Milford Sound, then coach
back out. This scenic flight is guaranteed to be the highlight
of your lifetime! The scenic beauty of Milford Sound and
the Fiordland National Park is the jewel in our crown -
not to be missed in other words. Alternatively, stay an extra
day and overnight in Te Anau, then coach back to
Queenstown the next day.
- Cruise Lake Wakatipu on the old
steamer TSS Earnslaw and visit Walter Peak Station
on the other side of the lake for an insight into high-country
sheep farming
- Learn to fly-fish in the trout
infested lakes and rivers
- Play golf on one of the most
magically located courses in the world
- Visit Skippers Canyon and the
remote Macetown goldfields on a 4x4 tour
- etc, etc, etc............
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Day 23 Queenstown – Wanaka 78kms |
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This morning I recommend you rise early and
drive up to the
Remarkables Ski-field - in Lumsden turn right and head
south for 6 kilometres. The best view of Queenstown is from
the Remarkables Lookout. There is a short walk from the
car-park around Lake
Alta – this place is
just magic in the still air of the morning. Several LOTR scenes
were filmed here -
wander south along the ridge to
Lake Alta where Aragorn led the fellowship down the
steep slopes of Dimrell Dell.
Return down the mountain and follow SH6 to
Arrowtown. Just
before the turnoff you may like to stop at the Amisfield Winery
and Bistro on Lake
Hayes.
The pretty tree-lined town of
Arrowtown
is another former gold mining settlement. Wander amongst the
historic cottages, visit the reconstructed Chinese Settlement
(the Chinese were subjected to many prejudices so had their own
settlement) and wander along the path by the river to view where
Isildur lost his life when attacked by the Orcs in the Gladden
Fields (LOTR).
Return to
SH6, turn left and then immediately left again for the scenic
Crown Range Route
to Wanaka via the old gold mining town of
Cardrona.
The 1120m high pass is rather zigzagging to say the least, so take
your time, however the views are breath-taking from the top. On
your descent I recommend a stop at the original Cardrona Hotel
- you
will be forgiven if you think it was used as the Prancing Pony
in Bree in the trilogy, but it wasn’t.
The local
ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer -
take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route
down on a mountain bike (hire your bikes in Wanaka.)
Or how about joining a horse-trek up the Cardrona Valley on
Appaloosas? Look for the famous controversial Bra-fence, a
unique piece of New Zealand history that you may (or may not) feel
inclined to add to.
Wanaka
lies on a tranquil lake with
picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my
favourite places in New Zealand! There are also several options
available here:-
- Play
golf-cross after your visit to the Rippon winery.
-
Mountain-bike along the lakefront
-
Glendhu Bay is a
sheltered and picturesque bay for postcard perfect photos of the
mountains behind. Try the swing out over the lake. Just beyond
is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular
Motatapu Gorge.
- One of
the best day walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier,
and its FREE. The walk will take you up through beautiful
rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the glacier face.
For a shorter walk, try the 2 ½ hour Roaring Meg's Pack
Track.
- Visit the
incredible Puzzling Maze – fun for young and old!
- The NZ
Fighter Pilots Museum has a much loved collection of classic
World War II fighters plus the added attraction of a flight
simulator.
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Day 24
Wanaka - Fox Glacier 274kms |
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Today’s trip takes you north
through a totally uninhabited region and over the Haast Pass
to the untamed grandeur of the West Coast region. This is
one of New Zealand's most unpopulated regions and a landscape that
is worth experiencing, not just seeing. Snow-capped mountains give
way to wild beaches and rocky outcrops, with diverse natural
attractions where glaciers, caves and virgin native forest compete
for your attention along this thin strip of dramatic coastline.
Unfortunately it is also extremely wet, receiving over 1m of rain
per year per square metre!
0kms – Take the road north along
the shores of Lake
Hawea and
Lake Wanaka.
Makaroa is first - where the West Coast meets Central Otago
at the southern end of the Alps. It has retained an element of
pioneering spirit in its unhurried approach to life. Here you have
time to try the very reasonably priced
Siberia Experience – fly into the Mt Aspiring National
Park, hike/tramp down the valley to the Siberia River and
jet-boat back out. Wow!
Soon after you cross the
summit of the Pass itself you can stretch your legs and
wander down to Fantail Falls.
Next you come to the Gates
of Haast, a gorge full of huge boulders and precipitous rock
walls that caused major problems during the construction of the
road in 1960 – up until then the Great Divide proved
insurmountable to all except the Maori who used the trail for
gathering greenstone.
104kms - The 28m Thunder
Creek Falls a little further on are well worth the stop, best
viewed along a short stroll on a loop-track.
129kms – Another waterfall
where you can get out to stretch your legs. The Roaring Billy
plunges down a mountain slope on the other side of the river –
there is a short loop-track here as well.
157kms – Between Haast
Junction and Haast
Township look out for
McGuire’s Lodge for a lunch option – try their whitebait
omelet….a specialty of the region. The delicately flavoured
whitebait are tiny fish that are caught by hand in huge nets. When
they are “running” you can catch a kilo in an hour, but you have
to have luck – hence the price.
From Haast the road
skirts the coast where fur seals often doze amongst the
spectacular sea stacks and driftwood. There is a viewpoint at
Knight Point before the road heads inland again.
184kms – About 200m north of
the Moeraki River bridge you can turn left to a car-park
and well formed path that takes you through beautiful coastal
forest to Munroe Beach,
a typical deserted and wild Westland beach where wildlife
abounds. Look for the rare and beautiful Fiordland Crested
Penguins fighting the crashing waves to land on the beach.
217kms – Just north of the
Paringa River you’ll find the Salmon Farm Café, either
feed the salmon in the tanks below or eat one in the café…or just
have a coffee.274kms – New Zealand has many glaciers, however the
two monoliths of Franz Joseph and Fox are our most
famous. Both are advancing towards the sea at a rate of 1m per
year, providing majestic scenery and ecological surprises as they
advance. Car-parks and paths are constantly being destroyed, so a
guided walk is recommended here (tomorrow morning). Glacier
walking is an amazing experience where you follow the guide as he
cuts steps into the ice providing a pathway over the surface and
into crevices and ice-caves to witness the beautiful blue colour
of the ice and hear the creaks of the living glacier.
This hike is fun
and safe for all and
also extremely informative.
Tonight you stay at the
village of Fox Glacier
– tomorrow morning I recommend an early rise to watch the sun rise
over Mount Aoraki
while being reflected in
Lake Matheson,
where you’ll also find a café offering a $10 breakfast for the
early risers. |
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Day 25 Fox Glacier – Greymouth 200kms |
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23kms – After your morning walk
(if any),continue north to Franz Joseph, it also has a
glacier and is home to Fergs Kayaks where you can hire
kayaks for exploring
Lake Mapourika - a
visually stunning kettle lake 15 kms north of here. The result of
a period of past glaciations at the coastal section of the
Franz Josef glacier valley, the lake is fringed with a
wonderful example of temperate rainforest reputed to have clothed
the earth during the Jurassic period. The climatic conditions are
such that the kayaks glide on the water with a minimum of physical
effort. 42kms – Here you
have the choice of turning left to Okarito Lagoon, a bird
watchers paradise with over 70 species visiting throughout the
year, kayaks are also available for hire here. To see the rare
White Heron breeding rookery continue north on SH6 to
Whataroa and join a White Heron Sanctuary Tour by
jet-boat to the colony (allow 3 hours). Departs 9am, 11am, 1pm and
3pm.
160kms - Hokitika is
the best place to see the New Zealand Greenstone (jade)
being made into ornaments and tiki (pendants). The stone
was prized by the Maori, who called it pounamu and they
went to great lengths to find and transport the precious stone.
The stone was mainly used for making a lethal weapon that sat
snugly in the hand of a warrior.
192kms – Just off SH6 you will
find Shantytown, a faithful recreation of an 1880’s gold
mining settlement. Here you can try your hand at gold-panning ($15
entry plus $5 extra for panning). Although quite commercial, it
does provide an interesting insight into the lives of the
prospectors. The whole coast in fact is steeped in history where
small villages are all that remains of what were once bustling
communities during the gold-boom years.
Continue north to Greymouth,
your destination this evening. It is home to the Montieth’s
Brewing Company which has been family owned since 1868 -they
are still brewing with the same traditions they used back then.
They brew strong tasting, full bodied ales. A tour of this West
Coast icon can be enjoyed today, where formal tasting of each
style of beer is of course included.
Greymouth lies on the
Grey River – named after the governor Sir George Grey and
not that the river is grey with sediment. In it’s heyday as a
booming gold centre it was known as Crescent City….now
isn’t that a much nicer name! Greymouth provided the
exterior pub locations and fishing docks for Perfect Strangers. |
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Day 26 Greymouth - Westport 105kms |
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Continue north to
the fascinating Pancake Rocks
at Punakaiki. High tide is the best time for viewing
as the blow-holes can produce some rather spectacular photo
opportunities.
Just after Punakaiki you will come to
the Pororari River - park by the bridge for a walk in to
the Paparoa National Park on the Pororari River Track.
The lower section of the track passes
through the Pororari River Gorge - a valley lined on both
sides by dramatic limestone cliffs and bluffs towering over the
gorge and river. Allow 2.5 hours for the return trip, however, if
you're just out for a short walk, the lower section is very
enjoyable for a stroll to stretch the legs. There is a popular
swimming hole about 1/2 hour along the track.
Meybille Bay was the childhood home
of Gaylene Presten, so this is where she chose to locate
the principle shack for Sam Niell and Rachael Blake
in Perfect Strangers. The dramatic coastline was chosen for
its romance and powerful idiosyncratic bush-clad landscape and
just before Charleston you will find the treacherous coast
of Constant Bay which provided the seascapes for their
raging love affair. The
little horse-shoe shaped bay often held a dozen sailing ships and Charleston
once had a hundred pubs to cater to the sailors needs.
Continue north towards Westport –
15 kilometres
later turn left to Cape Foulwind. Be sure to visit
beautiful Tauranga Bay
where the Fur Seal pups will keep you entertained for hours. At
the southern end of the bay visit the excellent Bay House Café
and Art Gallery where you can sit on the deck eating dinner at
sunset while
watching the surfers beyond.
Follow
the coastal road past Cape Foulwind to
Westport.
This is the Coast’s oldest town and your destination for this
evening. |
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Day 27 Westport - Arthur's Pass 226kms |
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Follow the SH6 through the very dramatic Buller Gorge.
In Inangahua the SH6 goes left over the bridge, but you
need to continue straight on the SH69 to Reefton, where you
turn right onto SH7 and follow the Grey River as far as
Stillwater. 151kms -
Turn left onto the Lake Brunner Road
and take the scenic route to Inchbonnie and SH73 via
Lake Brunner,
following the TranzScenic
railway tracks along the way.
Enjoy world-class scenery as you wind your way up through lush
beech forest from the
Tasman Sea, following
rivers and skirting lakes.
The road then winds its way over
massive bridges and through spectacular gorges and river valleys
as you ascend to the
settlement of Arthur's Pass. The pass, built by pick and
shovel and completed in 1866, is named after Arthur Dudley who
discovered it in 1864.
There are plenty of mountain
walks to choose from here.
One of the best little walks is immediately on your left as you
come into Arthur's Pass to the Punchbowl Waterfall
is recommended. |
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Day 28 Arthur's Pass - Christchurch 155kms |
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Today's drive
is all downhill, literally,
to the city of
Christchurch.
Another 50 kilometres further and you will start to recognize the
scenery where the big budget Disney movie “Narnia: The
Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe” was filmed.
The limestone valley which the
massive cast invaded for filming the great battle in
Narnia can be seen from the Cave Hill Reserve car-park.
The land belongs to the
vast 14,000
hectare
Flock Hill
high country sheep station (farm), so you need permission to walk
on the private land. However the
Castle Hill Reserve on
the right has several walks through wonderful karst scenery made
up of limestone boulders, cliffs and caves where you can wander to
your hearts content.
The final
pass to cross is the 945 metre high
Porter’s Pass, the
Lake Lyndon
is popular in the winter for ice-skating. This is the gateway to
several ski-fields in the area.
Only a few kilometers south of here is the Rangitata Valley
you visited on Day 18 - otherwise known as Edoras! The
road follows the Waimakariri River before crossing
the fertile patchwork farmlands of the Canterbury Plains.
Voilà, I hope you enjoyed your
whirlwind tour of the South Island. Return your car and catch your
international flight home. You may need an extra day in
Christchurch, depending on the time of your flight. |
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We know New Zealand – we live here!
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