Highlights in the North Island

• Auckland's wild West Coast

• Beautiful Coromandel Peninsula

• Kayaking to Cathedral Cove

• Cultural activities in Rotorua

• Central Plateau volcanic area

• Tongariro National Park

• Dawson Falls

• White Cliffs of Taranaki

• Mt Egmont National Park

• Putangirua Pinnacles

      Highlights in the South Island

• Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough Sounds

• Coastal Walkway, Abel Tasman National Park

• Hanmer Springs Thermal Resort

• Rangitata Valley

• Mount Cook National Park

• Rob Roy Valley walk to the glacier

• Queenstown - The Adventure Capital of the World

• Dart River and Mt Aspiring National Park

• Fiordland National Park, Milford Sound

• Fox Glacier and the rugged West Coast

All travellers using Amazing New Zealand services are personally met at the airport by our friendly professional representative. You will receive at the airport a comprehensive Deluxe Travel Pack. The pack contains the prepaid service vouchers, maps, discount vouchers and brochures to local attractions, plus a detailed daily explanation of driving routes, including suggested stops en route.

The representative will then take you to your accommodation in Auckland, stopping en route on the extinct volcano Mount Eden to point out the city's many geographical features and attractions. Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city, straddling two enormous harbours and dotted with 48 extinct volcanic cones. We recommend at least one day here to recover from your jet-lag.

Suggested activities:-  

• The Waterfront is where you can find the extremely informative Maritime Museum - the displays are chronological, so you begin with the Maori migration across the seas then step back in time on board a European immigrant's ship and finally appreciate New Zealand's proud yachting history including the Whitbread Round the World race and of course the America's Cup.

• Wander up to the Sky Tower - admire the view, climb the mast, bungee jump from the tower or just have dinner in the revolving restaurant.

• The trendy shops of Parnell are housed in some of Auckland’s oldest latticed fronted buildings on tiny brick-paved lanes.

• Kelly Tarlton was the inventor of the undersea walkway where you can view the fish from below without getting wet - the Antarctic Encounter and Penguin Encounter here are worth visiting on their own.

Today I suggest a day-trip around the outskirts of Auckland -  it is possible to have your very own Amazing New Zealand chauffeur to guide you to our favourite spots. Head north over the Harbour Bridge to pretty Orewa Beach and Wenderholm Regional Park on the tranquil east coast, followed by morning tea in the original Bohemian settlement of Puhoi. We then drive inland past wineries and orchards to the wild black-sand beaches of the West Coast. The gannet colony at Muriwai is a must see as not only will the cute chicks and the flying skills of the adults keep you mesmerized, but the sweeping views along the surfing beaches north will certainly blow any jet-lag away. Heading south again lunch can be enjoyed at the Bees Online cafe where many honey orientated products are on sale, or wine lovers should take advantage of having a chauffeur and dine in a restaurant under the vines of a world class winery. After lunch I recommend a walk in the lush bush of the Waitakere Ranges to a secluded waterfall or along a deserted beach, such as the one made famous in Jane Campion's movie The Piano. Return to Auckland along the Scenic Drive and take a ferry ride to the old suburb of Devonport - Auckland is known as the City of Sails, so a venture out onto the water is an essential part of visiting Auckland. Wander up North Head for awesome views of the city and our youngest dormant volcano Rangitoto Island. For a late afternoon swim in our clean, clear and safe harbour you can wander down the steps to beautiful Cheltenham Beach. On your return to the Ferry Building enjoy the sunset and dinner on the Waterfront.

Alternatively you can catch the ferry to Tiritiri Island - a bird sanctuary slowly regenerating with native bush. You can also visit Rangitoto Island - either by kayak or by ferry. Once there you can wander up the volcanic rock-strewn path to the summit.

Another nice walk is the Coastal Track on Waiheke Island, with the added bonus of vineyard cafes and beaches en route! Catch the ferry to Waiheke Island, what is now a small suburb of Auckland and about ½ an hour by ferry from Downtown. From the wharf, walk along the beach and follow the green and yellow markers around the coast. The path takes you along the cliff-top past exclusive homes, vineyards and olive groves. About ½ an hour along there is a great picnic spot amongst the old Pohutakawa trees with views back to Auckland. At Te Miro Bay you will see a path marked Oneroa, via Nick Johnston Drive. This will bring you eventually to the white sand beach, shops and cafes at Oneroa. You can extend the walk by continuing along the coast past Church Bay, but the views and path and not as good.

Before you depart for Coromandel, you have time to visit any of the attractions mentioned above that you would still like to do - there is no hurry to depart.

0kms - Head south on SH1, direction Hamilton. After the Bombay Hill, turn left onto SH2 direction Coromandel and at 88kms change again to SH25. Bird watchers should visit the Shorebird Centre on the side road to Miranda. It lies on the Firth of Thames, an important stopover point for migratory wading birds. One of them, the medium sized Godwit, breeds in Alaska then flies non-stop to New Zealand in just a week!

113kms – Turn left towards Thames – the gateway to Coromandel Peninsula. In the late 1880's this was a thriving gold mining and kauri logging centre – follow the signs into the town centre.  If you have time, you could visit the Gold Mine and Stamper Battery at the northern end of town. They offer regular tours showing the impressive ore-crushing stamper plus various tunnels with an informative commentary about the history of gold mining. Alternatively, there is another Gold Mine to visit in Coromandel.

Continue north direction Coromandel Town. You are now skirting the Firth of Thames, the road follows the dramatic and winding coast, so please take it easy. But most importantly, please remember that the locals are not on vacation and are quite often in a hurry to get somewhere. So if someone is pressuring you from behind,  just pull over and allow them to pass. You will enjoy the driving much much more and the locals will in turn be much much more friendlier when you do eventually cruise to your destination at your own pace! At 142kms, 144kms and 149kms there are places to pull over and take photos of this dramatic coastline. In fact all the way along there are plenty of places for stopping – Wilson Bay is one of my favourites. From December to January you should be treated to a display of flowering native Pohutakawa trees.

157kms – The picnic spot at the top of the hill has a great view down to Kirita Bay to the left, with Manaia Harbour to the right. At 169kms seafood lovers should stop at the Oyster and Mussel Shed on the left. They also sell scallops and all sorts of other seafood. The Smoking Company in Coromandel Town is also a good shop selling very fresh produce.

171kms – Turnoff for the 309 Road.

• 4.8kms up this road is the Waiau Waterways Garden and café, where whimsical wonders are worked by water. If you choose not to go in, the café is still a good option for lunch. They also sell pottery and garden sculptures at studio prices. If you do choose to go in, there are plenty of whacky contraptions to entertain the young and young at heart. There is a swimming hole, with free onsite BBQs, bring your own sausages. They also provide umbrellas, plus toilets (a `long-drop` old style toilet – a rarity these days around New Zealand).

• 6.7kms - There is an excellent walk to Castle Rock. It will take you about 45 minutes to walk up and 30 minutes to walk down. The track is slippery in places and the last few meters is a bit of a scramble holding onto rocks and bits of tree roots to get to the top, but whew is the view worth it from the top!

• 7.3kms - The small but delightful Waiau Falls – best viewed from below in the bush glade where there is also a swimming hole.

• 7.9kms - Continue another ½ km to the Kauri Grove parking. This short walk is excellent, giving you a real taste for the New Zealand bush, with 600 year old kauri trees. These trees are magnificent and the native bush is wonderfully lush and cool and peaceful. Continue past the first lookout for a lovely circuit route to the Siamese Kauri and to the Kauri Grove. The kauris are endemic to the northern part of New Zealand’s North Island and can live for 4000 years and grow to twice the height of these ones! They are the largest trees in the world if calculating volume of usable timber. No wonder they call them the giants of the forest and were almost wiped out by the colonials for their timber. The cutting down of a kauri is now banned as they are protected, so thankfully now we are seeing a comeback of these giants to our forests.

Return to SH25, Coromandel Town is another 5kms. The main street is an old world delight as if almost caught in a time warp - people smile and greet you with a friendly wave and horses trot slowly past 150 year old buildings which still grace the main street  which now house cafés and craft shops.

This morning you could:-

• Go fishing for giant snapper at 7am – the Coromandel Fish and Chip shop will fillet and cook it for you, alternatively if you’d like to enjoy your catch in a lovely restaurant setting, then the Success Café will cook up your catch for you – if it is filleted first.

• Or you could play golf on the 9 hole course – green fees are only $15 if you play 9 or 18 holes. The course winds around old mine shafts, with fairways following what once were rich gold veins bordered by thousands of miner’s shacks.

• Most tourists head to the Driving Creek Railway, for a ride on a narrow gauge train up a zig - zagging track that was first built to bring firewood and clay down for the potteries below. There is a great view over Coromandel from the “Eye Full Tower” at the top.

Or you could take the Coromandel Discovery Tour to the very top of the peninsula. Walk the incredibly beautiful Coromandel Coastal Walkway from Fletchers Bay to Stony Bay (3-4 hours, so take lunch and water) where the bus will be waiting to transport you back to Coromandel Township.

Alternatively there is a 1 hour walk to one of the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand! Drive over the hill towards Whitianga and turn left at the bottom of the hill to Whangapoua. As you come into the village, take the first left – this will take you around the far side of the little estuary. Park at the river mouth and follow the track around Motuto Point to New Chums Beach.

0km – Departing from Coromandel shops, drive south of the village towards Thames, the turnoff for Whitianga is 400m back. The road climbs steeply for 5.2kms, there are awesome views from the lookout at the top towards Coromandel, Waiheke Island and Whangaparoa Peninsula (Auckland`s northern boundary) to the east and Whangapoua to the west.  

28kms – Kuaotunu Beach is a wide sweeping bay with white sand, if you are in need of a swim.

41kms – You are now arriving in Whitianga, a safe harbour full of holiday homes favoured by Aucklanders. At 43 kilometres continue straight, following the beach to where the ferry departs from. This is where all the activity is, including some good cafés. One of the best places for a coffee is on the other side at the Ferry Landing Café, just a short stroll up the hill. Continue south, following signs for Tairua and SH25.

72kms – Turn left to Hahei and after 5 kilometres turn right to Hot Water Beach. It is a lovely long white sand beach with sand-dunes towards the north, but more importantly hot water rises to the surface here from a geothermal reservoir under the seabed. Check the tides, as you need to dig a hole below the high water mark, 2 hours either side of the low tide is your time limit. I recommend it after low tide, so you may then get to use an abandoned hole instead of having to dig one for yourself! Dig on the northern end of the beach, then sit back and soak in your own private spa. Look for the sulphur bubbling to the surface of the sand. Unfortunately the water can be too hot, so you also need to dig a channel to the sea to allow waves of cooler sea water to top up the levels and to cool off your pool.

Return to the Hahei road and continue north another 4kms to your destination for this evening. Hahei`s main attraction is Cathedral Cove, a gorgeous beach nearby hidden within a dramatic coastline. There are 4 ways of reaching it :-

• Walk the coastal track which starts on the northern end of Hahei Beach. The views are excellent - it will take you about 1 hour to reach the cove itself.

• Drive up to the car-park via Grange Road, then walk 45 minutes to the cove.

• Take the Hahei sight seeing boat, departing 10am (no time at the beach).

• Or my recommendation is to join the sea kayaking tour departing at 9am. This is a true kiwi experience, includes top quality kayaks and gear, tuition and even a coffee brewed for you on the beach while you take a swim. You can order which ever style – Cappuccino, Mochachino, even an L Baccino (long black). Sea kayaking is a `must do` in New Zealand and this is one of the most beautiful places to try it.

Today there is a long drive to Rotorua. Actual driving time is 4 hours without suggested stops. One mistake visitors to New Zealand make is under estimating how long it takes to drive – 300kms in New Zealand is not the same as driving 300kms on motorways in Europe! Our roads are not straight, as you have probably already noticed.

0km – Depart from Hahei Beach car-park, return to the SH25 intersection and go left towards Tairua. Immediately on your left you will notice some vines, they are kiwifruit. You will see many orchards and vineyards today as you travel through what is known as the fruit-bowl of New Zealand.

21.8kms – Great lookout spot for a photo of the Alderman Islands. An even better photo op is from the Paku Hill, turn left as you enter Tairua towards Ocean Beach. Keep following the road, at the marina go up Paku Drive, then follow signs to Paku Summit. A short walk will take you the rest of the way, for awesome views over Tairua Harbour and Pauanui Beach. Return to Tairua and continue south, direction Whangamata.

69.3kms – Go right direction Waihi, or straight if you want to see Whangamata Beach, otherwise follow SH25. The beach itself is over 4kms long and is popular for surfing. Through town is less winding and you may wish to stop for coffee.

100kms – Waihi once had 1200 mines producing half of the country’s gold. There is only one mine left now, the massive Martha’s Mine – a huge open cut mine right in the middle of town. Follow the signs right to Town Centre, then left at the top of the hill. At the second roundabout go right onto Moresby Ave, the Waihi Gold Mine lookout is on the right 300m along. The lookout is truly impressive and the Golden Legacy Centre has an informative 20 minute video about the mine. Return to town and follow signs to Tauranga.

165kms – Your first view of `The Mount`. It was once an island with a Maori pa (fortified village), but it is now joined to the mainland and marks the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour. In Maori Tauranga means `sheltered anchorage`, the harbour has become a huge port catering for massive cruise liners and container ships filled with lamb, kiwifruit and timber heading for Japan and Europe. The Mount is now a congested suburb of Tauranga, with the beach becoming a popular holiday destination for the wealthy and the not so wealthy surfing crowd alike.

167kms - At the end of the expressway, continue straight, then at the roundabout right and follow Mt Maunganui via Bridge. Three kilometres later turn left at the second roundabout head towards the Mount. At the end you will find plenty of (expensive) cafés to choose from. If you left Hahei early, you may like to try your hand at wave riding? The Ministry of Surf near the end of the road, rents out boogy and surf boards. Then again, you may just prefer to just sit and watch.

There is the choice of three walks here, depending on what time you left Hahei. The Coastal Track around the base of the Mount will take about 1 hour, to the summit and back is also an hour, or the full circuit starting from Pilot Bay on the harbour side around the base, then up to the summit via the Oruahine Track and back down the road, will take you about 2 hours.

Leaving the Mount, continue east along Marine Parade, it turns into Ocean Beach Road after 4kms, follow the signs to Paparoa. At 182kms go right, then immediately left, again following Paparoa.

187kms – You need to go right at the roundabout, direction Te Puke. At the ' T ' intersection turn left, you are now on State Highway 2. Te Puke is the original kiwifruit growing region of New Zealand. At 209kms follow SH33, direction Rotorua.

As you come into Rotorua, follow the city centre signs around the lake. You may smell Rotorua before seeing it, as the area is still very active with sulphur escaping from the earth’s crust (think rotten eggs). Don’t worry, you will get used to the smell. The city lies on a beautiful lake, actually a flooded volcanic crater - the surrounding hills are the remains of the rim of the giant volcano. Rotorua sits squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so volcanic activity is part of the city’s past and present. The city has become New Zealand’s second largest tourist centre – so there are no shortages of establishments willing to take some cash away from you and, quite frankly many of them are a bit of a rip-off. But if you’d like to make the most of what Rotorua has to offer and all that is thermal, here are some of my suggestions:- 

• Kuirua Park has the largest display of steam and mud pools….and it’s free! An eruption took place here as recently as January 26^th, 2001 when mud, steam and debris were thrown 200m into the air. Springs regularly just appear, resulting in families being forced to move and the land having to be given back to nature.

•  Wander around the original Maori settlement at Ohinemutu. The church is worth a look at, as is the Marae (Maori meeting house) across the courtyard. Wander the tiny streets where everyone has their own private hot-water bore to fill their bath in the out-shed….just follow the steam and, stay on the paths!

•  If you have time, soak in the reputedly therapeutic thermal pools at the Polynesian Spa, a delightful but busy public pool. If you wait until tomorrow morning the spa is less crowded - it is a wonderful way to start the day - relaxing with serene views across the lake.

• This evening don’t miss the excellent Tamaki Brothers cultural show followed by a traditional Hangi (earthen cooked meal). Pickups from your accommodation in a waka (war canoe) cleverly disguised as a bus, followed by a fun evening superbly hosted and entertained by local Maoris.

• The excitement junkies can take the Gondola up Mount Ngongotaha for awesome views, interspersed with hair raising rides on a luge (3 levels available, so suitable for children).

• Thrill-seekers should stay an extra day in Rotorua and go wild with the "Wild Four"- a mix of off-road action, zorbing, tandem sky-diving and white-water rafting.....all in one day! After 'going wild' at the four activities, you can relax and unwind using a complimentary pass to the Polynesian Spa - a memorable day indeed!

• Walk from the Polynesian Spa to the town on the Lakeside Walk via the bird sanctuary at Sulphur Bay. You will also see the remains of the first ever public bath – here Hydrogen Sulphide mixes with Carbon Dioxide to create a mixture similar to the dentist’s laughing gas!

There are many more attractions between here and Taupo! The Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland is the best thermal reserve in the area and highly recommended for today. Other attractions you could consider this morning are :-

• Have a game of golf on the beautiful Arikikapakapa course on the southern end of Fenton Street. On the 9 hole course, the usual hazards are not lakes and sand-traps, but rather steam vents and boiling mud pools!

• For non-golfers there are several other tourist attractions vying for your dollar. One possibility is to take an awesome flight or 4x4 tour to the top of Mt Tarawera

29kms – Heading south towards Taupo, turn left at the Wai-o-tapu Tavern and 400m further left again onto the Loop Road, to take a look at the thermal Mud Pools (free). Don’t forget to lock your car - the bubbling mud can keep you mesmerized for hours!

Follow the Loop Road to the main attraction Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. It really is a wonderland of orange, green, yellow, blue, white and black pools, the highlights being the exquisitely coloured Champagne Pool, Oyster Pool and the Devil’s Bath - you’ll be amazed how nature can conjure up such a kaleidoscope of colours. There are 3 self guided walks, the short, the medium and the long – the latter takes about 2 hours which I recommend as it takes you all the way to the green lake of Ngakoro, with great views en route of the blue lake Whangi-o-terangi, meaning `colour of the sky’. 

Afterwards, take a dip where the hot and cold rivers merge, 300 meters further along the Loop Road, by the bridge. Great in hot or cold weather - and it’s free! Follow the shingle path down to enter on the right, the left side can be a bit hot at times. Continue on this road to SH5 and turn left.

52kms – The Ohaaki Geothermal Power Station provides 5% of the country’s electricity. The Kaingaroa Pine Forest that you are driving through is the largest man-made forest in the world. You will also be passing the superb Wairakei Golf Course, mentioned on the 'Top 100 Golf Courses in the World' list! The best time to visit is in August and September when the trees behind the clubhouse are full of the native Tui birds.

78kms – Turn left for the mighty Huka Falls, Volcanic Activity Centre and Prawn Park.

• If you first go left, you will come to the freshwater Prawn Park, apparently the world’s only geothermal prawn farm. The informative tour leaves every 30 minutes, after which you are encouraged to munch out in the Riverside Restaurant.

• The Activity Centre is well worth a stop. You are in the middle of one of the most active volcanic spots in the world, so it’s good to know what lies beneath your feet. There are hands on interpretive displays of local volcanoes, up to the second earthquake Richter scale readings, even a room where you can experience a simulated earthquake.

• The Huka Falls are not very high, but are certainly spectacular (free). Here the sedate Waikato River is forced between a 15m gap before roaring over a 7 metre drop. There is a lookout just past the Helistar Helicopters, but the falls are much more impressive from below, where there is a walkway across the river.

• There is another free attraction called the Craters of the Moon volcanic reserve, that is if you’re not all ‘thermalled out’ yet. To reach the reserve after visiting the falls, return up the hill to Helistar Helicopters, turn left towards the highway intersection and cross straight over- it is another 1.5kms to the car-park. From here a 40 minute stroll along a boardwalk will take you through steamy billowing clouds and hissing escaping gases – you really do feel as if you’re walking on the moon.

Return to SH1/SH5, go right to Taupo. After 4kms turn left for the lookout over the huge Lake Taupo, actually the world’s largest volcanic crater, created in one giant explosion. The ash cloud floated all over the world - ice samples from as far apart as Antarctica and Alaska have determined the explosion to have occurred in 186AD. The effects of the ash were even recorded in China and Rome. You can gather your own free volcanic souvenir from the shoreline in the form of very light pumice stones (great for cleaning off rough skin) which were spewed out in that eruption. Just about everywhere you look in the Lake Taupo region, you'll see a volcano. Return to the highway, in Taupo go right at the first roundabout towards the lake front and town centre, where most of the eating establishments are situated.

Continue south on SH1 until Turangi, your destination for this evening. There are two more short walks I'd like to recommend - if you have time, or you could do these tomorrow morning if the weather is not suitable to do the Tongariro Crossing.

The first is a 2 hour circular route around Lake Rotopounamu - meaning greenstone lake in reference to it's (sometimes) emerald-coloured water. From Turangi drive north on SH41 and turn left onto SH47A - the car-park is 6 kilometres further. The density of birds in the bush here is marvellous - a sure sign of a healthy forest. There are three beaches en route - however the water is freezing to say the least!

The second  is a 15-minute walk departing from the Tokaanu Mud Pools, 5 kilometres north of Turangi. The track wanders along spongy paths with plopping mud-pools and swirling steam to accompany you through this mysterious geological world. The Maori have used these springs for cooking and bathing in the curative warm waters for more than 500 years.

From Turangi, drive north on the SH41 and turn left 3 kilometres later onto SH47A, direction National Park. It is the base for several mountain walks - the most popular being the excellent one day hike over the Tongariro Crossing, one of New Zealand's top ten walks. The track winds its way between the 3 majestic volcanic cones of Tongariro, Ruapehu and the steaming Ngauruhoe, via aptly named features such as the Red Crater, Blue Lake, Soda Springs and Emerald Lakes. The "walk" is 16 kilometres long - local transport can drop you at the start and pick you up 9 hours later at the other end. Alternatively there are shorter walks - the two hour Taranaki Falls track from Whakapapa Village or the Ruapehu Crater Lake track from the top of Whakapapa ski field chairlift are recommended.

40kms - If you're not doing the full-day hike, take the side road towards the Whakapapa ski-field. After another 4 kilometres there is a 20 minute walk to the Tawhai Falls, where the tree-lined river tumbles over a ledge of lava into a rock pool below. Mount Ruapehu is popular for skiing in the winter, or walking in the summer - it was used extensively for filming around the bad lands of Mordor in the LOTR trilogy and Mount Ngauruhoe provided the backdrop as Mt Doom. Mount Ruapehu doesn’t usually steam, but did erupt as recently as 1995. Return down the mountain and turn left to National Park.

Continue on to National Park Village where you turn right onto SH4 and drive north to Taumarunui, your destination or this evening. If you have extra days you could descend the Whanganui River by jet-boat or kayak. Seven kilometres north of the National Park Village, train buffs can check out the impressive Raurimu Spiral from the viewing platform. The track rises by means of a complete circle, three horseshoe curves and two tunnels. Alternatively, check out the working model at the Taumarunui tourist office.

0kms – Travel west on the ‘Forgotten World Highway 43’, certainly a step back in time. Please note that fuel, food or refreshment stops are a scarcity for the next 120kms!

34kms – At the top of the hill stop at Nevin’s Lookout, for panoramic views of the King Country and the mountains. Just after Tatu the landscape turns prehistoric through the Tangarakau Gorge. Coal was mined at several locations in the gorge and small pockets of coal can still be found adjacent to the Gorge site sign. 

65kms – At the bottom of the hill, turn right onto the Okau Road. About 20 minutes along this road you will find Mount Damper Falls, at 78 metres they are the 2^nd highest in New Zealand. The short walkway is well sign posted - climb over the stile and take the track beside the creek and over open farmland. After 10 minutes you will cross a swing bridge, where the bush starts. Descend with care (the path has a slippery clay base) towards the bottom which will take another 10 minutes. Toilets are available at the car-park. After returning to your car, continue the same direction to Okau and Ahititi.

108kms – At the Ahititi junction, turn right onto SH3 to Tongaporutu. Walk via the muddy riverbed (only at low tide) to the northern start of the White Cliffs Coastal Walkway (9.5kms one way), or you can just walk to the beginning where you will find various caves, arches and rock towers – however the walk is VERY muddy.

To do the full walk, follow the side-road to the last farm on the left (look for the enquiries sign) and pay $5 for a key, as access is via private farmland through a locked gate. There are also horse treks available from the farm. Return along SH3 the way you came, south to New Plymouth.

If the tide is not right then my advice is to drive across the river and take the first road on the left. There is parking at the end of the road where you can then climb over the stile for a short walk across accessible land to the headland. From here there is a wonderful view of the impressive White Cliffs, with the Three Sisters in the foreground and Mount Taranaki in the background.

130kms - Movie buffs may be interested to know that many of The Last Samurai’s scenes were filmed on a private farm near here, with the perfectly round volcano of Mount Taranaki cleverly filling in for Japan’s Mount Fujiyama. The dormant volcano last erupted as recently as 350 years ago and once had a twin peak, which shattered in some cataclysmic explosion centuries before.

Suggested activities in New Plymouth:-  

• The Coastal Walkway, with views of the Sugar Loaf Islands. The islands support an abundance of wildlife, including a fur-seal colony and thousands of roosting seabirds. The undersea wildlife are protected within a marine reserve.

• The Pukekura Park up on the hill has a lake with gorgeous reflections on a calm day.

• Brooklands next door is famous for the Rhododendrons.

• The Paritutu Plug is a spike of 2 million year old solid lava. There is a track to the top departing from the car-park directly behind the (eyesore of a) power station. The lucky may even be rewarded with views of hump-back whales and orcas!

7kms – Your first stop should be Lake Mangamahoe which offers beauty and serenity and is a photographer’s dream, especially early morning. Drive to the end of the side-road and take the track on the right up to the lookout. From here the mountain reflects beautifully and is framed by Punga trees.

40kms - In Stratford, turn right towards Cardiff and Mahoe, then follow the signs up the mountain to Dawson Falls.

65kms - Visit the Dawson Falls Information Centre first for information about the park and the many alpine tracks (colour-coded, so study the map first to avoid confusion!) There are limited snacks and non-recommendable coffee available from the Lodge. For a view of the waterfall itself, return 300 metres down the road to the Kapuni Loop Track (1 hour). A circular15 minute walk along a goblin-forest like track brings you back to the road, where you can continue on the full Loop if you wish. The first part is steep, as is the side-track to the base of the falls (not necessary), after which the path becomes much gentler and offers a better view of the falls from above - not extraordinary, however the walk is lovely.

You could combine this walk with the 1 hour Wilkies Pools Track. The pools are a series of water-sculptured rock pools turbulently cascading from one to another. The track crosses the Kapuni Stream where some agile boulder hopping is required - however you shouldn't get your feet wet. Return down the hill and continue straight to Manaia where you turn left at the roundabout to Hawera.

98kms - Just past Hawera you will see Dairyland, the dairy industry’s equivalent to the Agrodome back in Rotorua. It has a revolving café plus interesting interactive displays concerning all there is to know about cows. We do have excellent cows as well you know, not just sheep! We are indeed a proud farming nation. Besides, it makes an excellent excuse for coffee. Continue on to Wanganui, another 84 kilometres from here.

• Wanganui City lies on Whanganui River - New Zealand's longest navigatable river. The English settlers forgot to put in the 'h' when naming the city - hence the different spellings.

• The main street is full of flowering hanging baskets and beautifully restored historical buildings.

• You can also stroll across the Wanganui City Bridge to the pedestrian tunnel (through the Maori entrance next to the steps) which travels 205 metres inside the hill and leads to the earthbound Durie Hill Elevator, which will take you up to the War Memorial Tower. The tower is built of fossilized shell rock, and commands an impressive view over the city, river and coastline, plus Mt Taranaki to the northwest and Mt Ruapehu to the northeast.

• The Sarjeant Gallery is a nationally acclaimed art gallery - the city just oozes art, boasting a stable of celebrated artists as well as international fine arts students from the city's Polytech.

Continue south on SH3. The next town is Bulls where SH3 joins SH1. The town was named after one of the first settlers Mr. James Bull….so has nothing to do with the black four legged variety. That hasn’t stopped the town having a bit of fun though – I spotted the Bullocks Gravel Centre, Bulls Eye Café, Ye Auld Bull, the Forgive-a-bull church service, the Const-a-bull police station, the Extinguish-a-bull fire station, and so on. From January to March, keep an eye open for fields of bull-ti-ful sunflowers.

50kms - The two highways split again - continue straight on SH3 to Palmerston North. Rugby fans may want to stop and visit the Rugby Museum, where many a fanatic has made the pilgrimage to pay homage to our All Black heroes, past and present. Continue on SH3 through the impressive Manawatu Gorge.

100kms - In Woodville turn right onto SH2 to Masterton. On the banks of the Mangatainoka River 13kms later you can’t miss the Tui Brewery. Tui is fast becoming a New Zealand icon, with adverts claiming the beer to be brewed by women….gorgeous women! Yeah right. Beer enthusiasts may want to visit the Promo Shop for a sample or souvenir.

158kms – Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre is New Zealand’s best for viewing our unique native birds the Kiwis, Kakas, Kokakos, etc. The DoC (Department of Conservation) is successfully breeding endangered species here and there is something special about sitting on the deck of the café sipping coffee and looking at some prehistoric Takahe or Tuataras (lizards from the time of the dinosaurs).

• 1.30pm Feeding of the huge 80 year old wild eels, who instinctively seem to know the time.

• 3pm Kaka feeding, a cheeky and raucous native bush parrot, cousin to the more noious Kea that lives in the mountains.

• There is also a beautiful walk through ancient forest of Rimu, Rata and Kamahi, a living reminder of what existed before the colonization by man.

181kms – Masterton. At the first roundabout, turn right direction Wellington and continue to follow the signs through town. Next you come to Carterton, home of the Paua Shell Factory. Paua is unique to New Zealand. The informative display explains how they are caught in deep water with snorkels and how the inner shell casing is ground down to reveal the beautifully patterned colours. OK agreed, some of the items on sale are painfully kitsch, but somebody must buy them otherwise they wouldn’t continue to make them. However many other items are unique and useful, not to mention stunningly beautiful, so will make a perfect souvenir.

207kms – Turn left to Martinborough, a unique wine village and your destination for this evening. There are 20+ boutique wineries specializing in Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines, many within staggering distance of the Village Square. The wine centre is the best place to start your sampling, followed by a memorable meal at any one of the excellent cafés.

Today I’m taking you to the very edges of earth to the wild southern coast of the North Island, visiting Cape Palliser’s candy striped lighthouse, the sea-lion colony, the baby bulldozers at Ngawi and the Putangirua Pinnacles. There are no shops or restaurants, so you need to take some food and refreshments with you! The highlight in my eyes is definitely the walk to the Pinnacles, an unusual valley of scree that has been compacted and lifted out of the sea, rising to a height of 200 metres. The erosion of the land over the millennia has left fingers of gravel spires and turrets topped with a harder stone which provide some, let’s say, interesting views. From below you feel the full force of what nature can inflict on this earth, from above you get a full picture of the valley – and it’s awesome. The walk is a bit of a scramble to say the least over river boulders, debris and fossils, but the adventure is more than worth the small effort.

0kms – Departing from the Village Square, head south along Jellicoe Street, direction Lake Ferry.

32kms – Left, direction Cape Palliser. The Putangirua Pinnacles Reserve car park is on the left at 46kms. The walk will take you about 3 hours if you walk to the base of the Pinnacles, then up to the lookout and back down the bush track.

You need to follow the stream for 35 – 45 minutes, until the 1^st streambed branching off to the left. When we did it, most of the track was washed away and we had to make several crossings of the stream. After we visited the base of the Pinnacles, we returned down the smaller streambed to the orange marker 100m before the bottom – this leads to the steep track that will take you up to the lookout….strenuous, but wow, what a view. We then continued on the bush walk back to the car park. Admittedly it’s a bit of an adventure getting there, but as my husband declared " it’s a world wonder”. After the walk, departing from the car park, turn left.

65kms – Ngawi is home to the baby bulldozers with imaginative names such as “Tinky Winky” and “Babe”. Their owners are crayfishermen and fishermen, the only source of income in the area.

72kms – Cape Palliser. The rocks and beach between Mangatoetoe and the lighthouse are home to thousands of sea-lions, a seemingly harmless blob of blubber. You can easily approach within metres, but be sure not to stand between the animal and their escape route to the sea. Return along the coast.

112kms – Right, direction Martinborough and at 125kms, left direction Featherston.

154kms – Featherston is the first opportunity for a café stop, however there is a better choice with a view in another 10 kilometres if you can wait. The town housed New Zealand’s largest army training base during WW1, with about 35000 troops passing through the camp before they had to walk the Rimutaka Hill to Wellington to be shipped overseas. Quite a formidable feat you’ll realize once you’ve negotiated the tortuous “hill” yourself by car. Messines in Belgium is twinned with this little town because New Zealand troops recaptured it from the Germans in June 1917.

165kms – The Summit car park and café is on the right – pass over the median strip with care! There is a great view of Lake Wairarapa and the coast to the east and of the Rimutaka Incline to the west, where the specially built Fell Engine train climbed the steep 265m slopes. From here it’s all downhill, literally, to Wellington. If you do not require your hire-car tomorrow, then consider returning it today - you will be picking up a new one in Picton or returning to Auckland on Day 13 to connect with your international flight.

A day off from driving! If you are continuing on to the South Island then you will have more time in the capital. Otherwise fly north to Auckland to catch your international flight. There are numerous attractions to be enjoyed today :-

• The main attraction here is the free National Museum of Te Papa. You can easily spend hours engrossed here - if only you visit the excellent Maori heritage section.

• The best place to start your visit to Wellington is Mount Victoria Lookout for awesome views of the city and harbour.

• Visit Courtney Place for lunch and later I recommend dinner at the White House.

• Although Wellington is not the largest city, it does lie central to the two islands and is therefore the capital. The Parliamentary District is interesting to wander around - the Beehive houses various government offices! There is a free tour of Parliament House.

• Be sure to take the Cable Car up the steep hill up to Kelburn behind the city centre and wander back down through the magnificent Botanical Gardens.

• Wellington is home of the Weta Workshop, makers of the Lord of the Rings Trilogy. There are several guided day tours on offer to the main filming sites in and around the city.

• Play golf at Paraparaumu, just north of Wellington on SH1. This is another internationally recognized course on the 'Top 100 Golf Courses in the World' list.

• Stop off at Titahi Bay on your return to the city for a meal at the award winning Oceana Café. Exit the motorway at Porirua. There are several roundabouts through the shops – just follow the signs for Titahi Bay and travel along the northwest side of the lagoon. Drive right to the end, you can even park on the beach! Titahi Bay has safe swimming, with lovely views of the South Island in the distance.

Today you cross to the South Island on the 8am flight. Although this is a commercial flight, it can easily be described as a stunning scenic flight over the flooded valleys of the Marlborough Sounds! On arrival a free shuttle will whisk you to the Picton wharf to connect with the water-taxi to your accommodation in the stunning Queen Charlotte National Park. Today I recommend you disembark at Resolution Bay and walk back to your lodge - your luggage will be dropped at your accommodation for you.

This morning the water-taxi will deposit you back to Picton at 12.45pm, pick up your new hire-car and drive west along the waterfront of Queen Charlotte Sound to the enchanting little village of Havelock at the head of Pelorus Sound.

35kms - Havelock was once a thriving gold-mining town, however the gold is green these days and comes in the form of green-lipped mussels - try them for lunch at the Mussel Boys Restaurant. The town's most famous resident was Sir Ernest Rutherford, Nobel winner for being the first person to split the atom! If you'd like to learn more about mussels there is a tour to the mussel farms leaving at 2pm with steamed mussels and a glass of wine included en route.

110kms - Nelson holds the title as most sunniest place in New Zealand, with absolutely stunning golden beaches particularly north of Kaiteriteri and around the Abel Tasman National Park, your destination for this evening. The region is home to countless artists and crafts people in and around the city, many of them were involved in creating the many props of Middle-Earth.

• The World of Wearable Art and Collectable Cars is just north of Nelson Airport, has some rather bizarre outfits previously created for the annual fashion show.

• The South Street Gallery has 25 selected resident potters, the same street has 16 historical cottages to look at.

• The biggest art gallery in town is the Suter Gallery, next door to the Queen's Gardens

• The One Ring was created by Jens Hansen Goldsmith on Trafalger Square - buy your own souvenir while you're here

• Harringtons Brewers in Richmond produced the special beer for the Prancing Pony (LOTR)

Continue on SH6 through Stoke and just after Richmond turn right at the roundabout onto SH60, direction Motueka. In Mapua you may like to take the short diversion off SH60 to the waterfront where you will find the excellent multi award winning restaurant the Smokehouse, the Cool Store Art Gallery opposite is well worth looking at. Soon after passing through Motueka, turn right immediately after crossing the Riwaka River to Kaiteriteri. Watch out for the Flying Fox en route - here you can ascend 700m up a hillside in a carriage and then descend at 100 km per hour! This evening try the little walk at the eastern end of Kaiteriteri Beach to the Kaka Pa Point Lookout, with the idyllic little Breakers Beach below.

The Abel Tasman National Park is our most beautiful park, but unfortunately it is also our most popular - hence the famed coastal walking track can become quite crowded at times. It is named after the Dutchman Abel Tasman who first 'discovered' this land in 1642 and consequently named it New Zealand after his home province in The Netherlands (recently discovered evidence north of Auckland suggests there was a Portuguese colony here before then).

The world famous Coastal Walkway is actually a multi-day walk, however it is possible to take a water-taxi part way along and then either walk back or kayak along the crystal clear coastline. My recommendation is to take the scenic cruise to Onetahuti then walk the most picturesque stretch from Bark Bay through the lush forest interior and Swing Bridge back to Torrent Bay where they will pick you up again at 5pm (the earlier water-taxi does not allow enough time to swim or relax on the golden beaches). Alternatively you can be dropped at Torrent Bay by an ordinary water-taxi (this should be timed for low tide) and then walk 3 ½ hours back to Marahau via Anchorage Bay, Watering Cove, Stillwell Bay, Apple Tree Bay and Tinline Bay, followed by a seafood fettuccine and a beer at the Park Café. However the bush is only regenerating bush having originally been cleared and the views are far less awesome on this stretch. It is also possible to join a multi-day trip combining the walk and water-taxi with kayaking the azure-coloured clear waters. In a word, paradise!

0kms – Return 15kms to Motueka and turn right after the shops onto SH61. It follows the Motueka River, a fertile valley full of hops, kiwifruit and apple orchards. At 41kms there are 2 one-way bridges on blind-bends! You have the right of way, however be careful! At the Kohatu Hotel SH61 joins SH6. Turn right and follow this road and at 84kms turn left, direction Saint Arnaud.

118kms – Turn right to the alpine village of Saint Arnaud, gateway to the trout infested Nelson Lakes National Park and starting point to numerous alpine walks ranging from 20 minutes to 7 days – take your pick, or just enjoy the scenery (continue through the village to the park entrance, the walks start from the parking on the left down by the lakefront). The 45 minute Honey Dew  walk through the virgin Beech Forest is particularly lovely. The level walking track takes you along the lake then deep into the ancient forest where the canopy is full of bellbirds and tuis competing in birdsong and where the forest floor is a refuge for our native kiwi – unfortunately they are nocturnal and avid sleepers so you are not likely to see one! My favourite walk is to gorgeous Lake Angelus, but to manage it in a day you need to catch a (scenic) water-taxi to the southern end of Lake Rotoiti and follow the Hukere Valley to Lake Angelus Basin and return the same way. After your walk I recommend Elaine’s Alpine Café back in the village for lunch. Continue west along SH63.

Murchison is next, famous for almost being wiped out in the 1929 earthquake. You should fill up with petrol here as there is not another service station for 100kms! Continue on SH6.

197kms – It is possible to make a small side trip here if you have time (otherwise continue straight on SH65 to Lewis Pass.) SH6 turns right over O’Sullivan’s Bridge - 3kms later you will come to the longest Swing-bridge in New Zealand. There is a short walk across the swing-bridge to the Ariki Falls, not spectacular but the pink granite rocks are unique. Beware of the man-eating sand-flies! They also hire out pans if you would like to try your luck at panning for gold in the Buller Gorge. Return to O'Sullivans Bridge and turn right, direction Lewis Pass. The Maruia Falls 8 kilometres later are worth a quick look at – dramatic evidence of the 1929 earthquake.  

272kms - Turn left onto SH7 which will take you over the 864 metre high Lewis Pass. In pre-European times the Maori used this route to the West Coast in search of greenstone, on their return they are said to have slaughtered their slaves in the valley to the right followed by a feast on their remains - hence it is known as Cannibal Gorge. As you descend you may want to peruse the naming of the mountains surrounding you – there is Mt Skidaddle, The Grand Duchess, Niggerhead, Spider Web and Mons Sex Millia to mention just a few….I’m sorry I can’t enlighten you with a story behind these names.

357kms - Turn left to Hanmer Springs, your destination for this evening. Here you can enjoy a wealth of activities – their specialty mountain-biking, bungee jumping, rafting, skiing or horse riding, followed by a well earned soak in the award winning Thermal Resort. The town is particularly beautiful in autumn when the tree-lined streets and forests are splattered with golden hues.

You have time to enjoy some adventures this morning before heading to Kaikoura along the scenic Alpine Pacific Triangle.

0kms - Return to SH7 and turn left towards Culverden. At 30 kilometres turn left and after 3 kilometres left again onto SH70 to Rotherham and Waiau.

122kms - Turn left to Kaikoura. The rugged coast is home to a diverse range of wildlife which gladly pose within camera range. Watch out for seals, dolphins and albatrosses amongst the rocks, freshly cooked crayfish is usually available from a roadside shop housed in a caravan. A deep-sea canyon system rich in plankton lies close to the coast, which then attract a variety of those very special creatures - the whales. However only male sperm whales are resident all year round as the females stay in the warmer tropical waters near the equator. Sperm whales can dive to a depth of 2kms and stay submerged for up to 2 hrs and can swim at 40km/h. Also, did you know that dolphins do not breath automatically as humans do so when they sleep only half the brain sleeps at a time.

Your first stop in Kaikoura should be the Lookout just off Scarborough Terrace. From here you can view the azure-blue waters around Kaikoura Peninsula framed by the mountain backdrop behind. The excellent 2 hour Peninsula Walkway at the head of the peninsula takes you along the shoreline past limestone sea caves and formations and back over the cliffs.

Seafood lovers should visit Finz of South Bay. The colourful, beautifully presented fare lives up to its visual promise. Try the Seafood Platter for two - whole crayfish, two types of fish, mussels steamed in white wine, scallops, smoked salmon filled mushrooms...

Optional Extra - If you have an extra 2 days you can enjoy the mountainous region on the Kaikoura Wilderness Walkway staying overnight at the Shearwater Lodge on New Zealand's highest farm. The 17 kilometre walk has abundant birdlife and plantlife as it meanders through stands of Manuka, Beech forests and ancient Totara, rising sometimes above the snowline. You can sit on the balcony in the evening and watch chamois, red deer and goats while inquisitive Kea (mountain parrots) hang around hoping for handouts. There is also a fabulous 3 day walk along the Kaikoura Coastal Walkway. Personal luggage is transported each day for you, where an evening meal and even pre-dinner wine can be provided!

After your morning excursion to view the whales or swim with the playful Dusky Dolphins, drive down the east coast to Christchurch. Swim among the dolphins enthralled by their antics or remain dry and marvel at their acrobatic displays from the boat

68kms  - Turn left to Gore Bay to visit the uniquely eroded (think organ pipes) Cathedral Cliffs just past the beach. Continue on this loop road which will rejoin SH1 in Domett. The little Mainline Cafe on the corner of the main road is well worth the stop. The food is excellent, particularly when enjoyed in the garden out back. Continue south on SH1.

The Waipara Valley is a sunny and well drained valley and is fast becoming the new vine growing region. I can recommend a stop at the family-owned Pegasus Bay winery, turn left 4.5 kilometres after the village. Try their generous platter loaded with cheeses and locally caught salmon and duck accompanied with some excellent award-winning wines on the lawn.

Christchurch is New Zealand's second largest city which sprawls across the Canterbury Plains. The main attractions here are the 748 gardens and parks, the city even has its very own Avon River on which one can punt. It has an English colonial feel to the city with school children in formal blazers and straw hats, with fine architecture and heritage sites evident everywhere. The best way to orientate yourself with the city's attractions is is on the tour aboard a beautifully restored tram which provides interesting commentary along the way.

Other attractions in Christchurch worth considering later this afternoon or tomorrow morning are :-

• Taking the Port Hills Gondola for stunning views from the restaurant and cafe. Return by gondola, walk on the Bridle Path, or descend by mountain bike

• Take the Scenic Drive to the harbour of Lyttleton via Sumner and Evans Pass, returning over the Port Hills

• Visit the Canterbury Museum (free) for their informative Antarctic display and impressive Maori collection

• The excellent International Antarctic Centre near the airport is where you can experience all there is to know about the icy continent

• Mona Vale is a beautiful Edwardian-style homestead set amongst 5 ½ ha. of beautiful gardens.

• Play golf at Clearwater Estate, an extremely beautiful 72 hole championship course. The Russley Course is one of the "Top 100 Golf Courses in the World"

You have time to visit more of Christchurch's attractions. Later there is a short drive due west across the Canterbury Plains to the foothills of the Southern Alps. Head west on SH73

52kms - In Darfield turn left onto SH77 direction Glentunnel and Mt Hutt. (Fans of the Chronicles of Narnia should stay on SH73 for another 66kms and drive to Flock Hill via the dramatic Porters Pass. Scenes for The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe were filmed on Flock Hill Station - park at the Cave Stream Scenic Reserve. Return 12 kilometres and turn right at Lake Lyndon, direction Ryton Station. This dramatic road dissects the Tussocklands Scenic Reserve, with wonderful views of Lake Colleridge. Continue past Terrace Downs, at the SH77 intersection turn right to the Rakaia Gorge and Methven. This diversion will add 95 kilometres to your drive today.)

92kms - The road crosses the alluvial Rakaia River next. For excellent views of the gorge you should park by the first bridge and cross over the road to the little walkway. Walk as little or as far as you like but the views are best at the beginning. It is also possible to drive onto the riverbed.

100kms – Mt Hutt Station (ranch) on your right is one of the largest deer farms in the world. Turn left to Methven - a bustling ski resort by winter servicing Mount Hutt and a quiet country town in the summer.

Today I am taking you to the very centre of Middle-Earth hidden deep in the Southern Alps and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand! Be sure to pack a picnic today. Take the road next to the tourist office, direction Mt Somers and 10 kilometres later turn left onto SH72.

30kms - In Mount Somers turn right towards the high country sheep stations of Mount Potts and Erewhon (an anagram of 'nowhere'!) You really do feel as if you are in the middle of nowhere as you travel through the tussocked and exposed land. Be aware that you are now in the alpine region, where weather and temperatures can change dramatically within hours. The 50 kilometre unsealed road will take you deep into the mountains to the head of the Rangitata River.

65kms – Turn right onto Mt Pocession Street for an awesome view of the Alps across the trout infested Lake Clearwater – the holiday settlement is full of tiny basic holiday homes that we call a bach. The lake is popular for bird watching, kayaking, wind-surfing and trout fishing.

The scenery changes dramatically after this as the road meanders through the huge high country farms to reveal your first breath-taking view of the massive glacial valley. The elaborate set of the Golden Hall of Edoras for the Lord of the Rings Trilogy was purposely built on Mt Sunday - it is not really a mountain but a small rocky knoll lying in the middle of the valley that escaped the destruction of the advancing glaciers. One of my favourite scenes was of Éowyn gazing across the valley in deep thought and my absolute favourite scene was of Aragorn returning on horseback to Helms Deep after his disappearance over the cliff during the attack of the Wargs, which was filmed further up the Rangitata Valley. My ultimate dream would be to ride up that grassy knoll, with awesome views of the valley below surrounded by the massive Southern Alps... I’ll keep you informed.

81kms - Follow the road past Mt Potts Station and park just after the cattle-stop. It is permissible to walk to Mt Sunday but it does involve getting your feet wet several times. We failed in our attempt on the fourth crossing of the glacial river, however it was an adventurous and humbling experience trekking as tiny insignificant specks through morass and icy cold streams surrounded in an amphitheatre of massive snow-capped mountains. We retreated and found the most perfect picnic spot on a grassy bluff 200 metres up the hill from our car – in fact the best picnic spot I have ever found in the world, it even bet the picnic we had dangling our legs over the edge on top of Table Mountain in Cape Town! You might even feel spiritually uplifted after your visit - it may have something to do with the source of the river being fed by the Garden of Allah Glacier and the Garden of Eden Ice Plateau! Return to Mt Somers and turn right, direction Geraldine.

182kms - Geraldine is a great place for a coffee and has a few attractions worth stopping for. You can choose from:-

• A larger than fair smattering of arts and crafts galleries
• The Vintage Car Club and Machinery Museum has a sizable collection of cars, tractors and aircraft.
• The Giant Jersey has, you guessed it, the largest jersey in the world, plus lots of woolly stuff on sale.
• Barker's Berry Barn is a specialty shop, where you'll find a huge range of fruity liqueurs and wines, plus unique gift and gourmet items.
• Kiwi Country is purpose built for the tourist buses and is full of the usual souvenirs. However it does have excellent coffees and toilet facilities.
• Try the Swiss-style Florentines at Chocolate Fellmann - the prices ensure they are sold fresh

Turn right at the tourist office to Fairlie, where you join SH8 to Lake Tekapo. The scenery dramatically changes as you cross over Burke's Pass. You are now entering the McKenzie Basin, a flat expanse of tussock grasslands and home to New Zealand’s highest mountain Aoraki (or Mt Cook as it is known in English) with sparkling turquoise glacial lakes below the rolling foothills of the Southern Alps - and it bears little resemblance to anywhere else in New Zealand.

270kms – The village at Lake Tekapo is small - their claim to fame being that it has the cleanest and clearest air in New Zealand. There is not much to hold you here beyond taking a snapshot of the much-photographed Church of the Good Shepherd and the Sheepdog. The gorgeous turquoise-blue lake derives its colour from fine glacial particles suspended in the water.

285kms – Turn off the highway and take the scenic route to Twizel along the huge man-made Tekapo Canal constructed for the Upper Waitake hydroelectric scheme, a significant source of our country’s electricity. En route you can buy fresh fish or sashimi from the salmon farm and stop for spectacular photos of Mt Aoraki across the opaque Lake Pukaki.

315kms – Turn right onto SH80. The 55 kilometre scenic drive to Mount Cook Village at the base of Mt Aoraki and the Tasman and Hooker Glaciers encompasses world-class scenery at its best where your excitement grows in parallel with the vista before you as you enter this world heritage site known as the Mount Cook National Park. On arrival you can choose from:-

• Several different alpine walks with wonderful views

• Scenic flights either by ski plane or helicopter, guaranteed to be THE trip of your lifetime!

• Glacier Explorer Trips involve walking to Tasman Lake and then taking an informative boat ride to the face of the advancing glacier

• Eat, drink and just relax in the Hermitage while enjoying the incredible views that lie before you.

You can stay as long as you like before heading off to Wanaka. I recommend the Sealy Tarns Track, or for the fit it is possible to go all the way to the Muller Hut and back in one day - the best day-walk I've ever done! The walk offers a gargantuan vista of Mount Aoraki, the glaciers and the exotically coloured lakes below. This is New Zealand at its very best. Please note appropriate clothing and footwear is required - storms and snow can be upon you within a few hours, even in the summer, so always be prepared for the worst.

The Hooker Valley walk is one of the most popular in the area. Park at the White Horse Hill camping and follow the Hooker River. There are massive views of Mt Sefton and the shrunken Mueller Glacier, past an Alpine Memorial and over two swing-bridges until the final destination of the terminal lake at the bottom of the Hooker Glacier. Here Mt Aoraki looms ahead with great walls of ice up on the left and buttresses of rock tower over the foaming river to the right. The walk takes approximately 2 hours one way, you can shorten the walk by returning after reaching one of the landmarks along the way, for example by only walking to the first swing-bridge.

Alternatively there are a couple of options back in Twizel. Here you can try golf-cross, a whacky and fun game involving hitting an oval shaped golf-ball with golf clubs, with the object being to score goals between two upright posts (as they do with Rugby). There is the Pelennor Fields tour - probably guided by a Rohirrim or Gondorian extra, the tour also gives a highly interesting insight into high-country sheep farming. Twizel is also home of the heli-bike - helicopter onto a remote awesomely scenic mountain and mountain-bike your way down. Or visit the Department of Conservation's hide to view the Kaki Black Stilt. There is a 1 hour guided tour with commentary on the management program of these endangered birds. There are only around 40 of these birds left in the world and this is the only colony!

0kms – Return along SH80 to Twizel, head south on SH8 via the scenic Lindis Pass. Consider stopping at Omarama for petrol and to view Norman Sinclair’s brilliantly painted landscapes next door.

210kms - It is hard to believe that this sleepy region was the most populous in New Zealand during the chaotic gold boom years of the late 19th century. Cromwell is one of the sunniest, warmest places in the South Island (in the summer that is), making it ideal for growing fruit trees and the region is fast becoming renowned for fine Pinot Noir wines. The Mount Difficulty Vineyard towards Bannockburn has fine wines as well as expansive views. Bannockburn also has gold mines to explore, otherwise the Goldfields Mining Centre in the Kawarau Gorge, 6kms further along the road to Queenstown is well worth the stop.

The Kawarau River Bridge is home to A.J. Hackett's very first bungee jumping platform - this is where you get to tie a huge elastic band to your ankles and jump out into space over the river, or just have fun watching others. If you turn left to Chard Farm just before the bridge and drive just a short distance up this road, you can see the location of the Pillars of the Kings on the River Anduin (LOTR).

Continue on to Queenstown. However our destination this evening is further along, at the far end of Lake Wakatipu via the scenically superb lake side drive. From here the most scenic jet-boat ride in the world (another New Zealand invention) will take you on a thrilling ride up the Dart River tomorrow into the very heart of the Mt Aspiring National Park  - there is an option to raft back down....amazing! Horse-trekking through the 'forests of Lothlorian' is also recommended.

76kms - Bob's Cove has a short loop track along a nature trail through native forest full of bellbirds, thrushes and fantails to the lakeside where you can observe the strange seiches phenomenon - this is an unusual rhythmic rise and fall of 12cm in its water level every five minutes due to variations in atmospheric pressure. A Maori myth says it is the beating of a monster's heart lying in the depths of Lake Wakatipu!

Glenorchy is also the starting point of the 3 day alpine tramp along the Routeburn Track. For a shorter version, wander along  the alpine meadows to the cascading Routeburn Falls. Discover the deep green pools of the Routeburn River and the unspoiled lush beech forest - the area is a haven for native bird life.

The sheer breadth of tourist activities available here is impossible to list, however the ' in-thing' at the moment are tours that have anything to do with the numerous Lord of the Rings filming locations. One of the most spectacular and affordable scenic flights in the world is the 2 ½ hour Trilogy Trail, with plenty of commentary and behind the scenes 'anecdotes' along the way.

This evening ride the Skyline Gondola to take in the awesome views - best viewed at sunset when the Remarkables Range on the other side of Lake Wakatipu glow in golden light. In winter the view is even better with the mountains covered in snow!

0kms - Drive 6 kilometres north to the SH6 junction and turn right, direction Lumsden and Te Anau. The trip to Milford will take you at least 5 hours. But first take the road to the Remarkables ski-field about 6 kilometres after this turnoff, for the best view of Queenstown at the Remarkables Lookout. There is a short walk departing from the ski-field's carpark to the stunningly beautiful sky-blue Lake Alta. Follow the vehicle track around the buildings until it crosses the Rastus Burn (a small river) and wander up the track to the mountain tarn that seems trapped in a circle of mountains. Early risers will be rewarded with serenity and reflections that will take your breath away.

186kms - Te Anau is the gateway to the Fiordland National Park - 1,250,000 uninhabited hectares of stunning wilderness. Fiordland has a primeval rugged landscape, largely untouched by humans apart from incursions by tourists at Milford and Doubtful Sounds and a few fishermen in other fiords. It was declared a World Heritage Area on account of the outstanding geological features and exceptional beauty, the jewel in the crown being Mitre Peak in Milford Sound. However many argue that Doubtful Sound is even more spectacular. Te Anau is also the base for many multi-day mountain hikes. It is also where you should fill up with petrol, as there are no shops or facilities in Milford.

As you travel the Milford Sound Road to the Homer Tunnel there are several opportunities to stop and take photos - as you will probably be squashed between a convoy of tourist buses, you'll know where to stop. If you prefer not to drive, it is possible to take the coach which departs Te Anau at 12.30pm and drops you back there the next day also at 12.30pm. The over-night cruise departs at 4.30pm - parking is available 10 minutes walk from the Visitor Terminal. Once the masses depart on their buses, you will finally experience the sound of silence on board your boat cruising this eighth wonder of the world - kayaking with the dolphins under the many waterfalls is simply paradise.

This afternoon I recommend a bush walk along the Kepler Track, which begins at the southern end of the lake and skirts the lakefront towards the west before climbing steadily to the Kepler Mountains on the other side of the lake. OK agreed, you won’t get that far, but you can walk as far or as little as you like. Don’t forget the insect repellent – the sand-flies can be ferocious!

The alternative is to head straight back to Queenstown where you’ll have time to enjoy more of what is on offer there.

After your day-trip, take the alternative road north to rejoin SH94, turn right towards Mossburn and return to Queenstown the way you came. In Frankton stay on SH6 instead of turning left to Queenstown. The turnoff to Arrowtown is another 12 kilometres from here. Just before the turnoff you may like to stop for dinner at the Amisfield Winery and Bistro on Lake Hayes.

Return to SH6, turn left and then immediately left again for the scenic Crown Range Route to Wanaka via the old gold mining town of Cardrona. The 1120m high pass is rather ziggy-zaggy so take your time, however the views are breath-taking from the top. On your descent I recommend a stop at the original Cardrona Hotel.

The local ski field at Cardrona has a chair lift open in summer - take a leisurely walk in the mountains, or take the fast route down on a mountain bike (hire your bikes in Wanaka.) Or how about joining a horse-trek up the Cardrona Valley on Appaloosas?

60kms – Wanaka lies on a tranquil lake with picture-perfect mountains as a backdrop and it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand! There are also several options available here:-

• Wanaka is the best place to try tandem sky-diving!
• Mountain-bike along the lakefront
• One of the best short walks in this country is to the Rob Roy Glacier. The walk will take you up through beautiful rain forest to a hidden valley, right up to the face of the glacier. For a shorter walk, try the 2½ hour Roaring Meg's Pack Track.  
• Or how about a 4x4 quad bike tour on a sheep farm with great views.
• Play golf-cross after your visit to the Rippon winery.
• Glendhu Bay is a sheltered and picturesque bay for postcard perfect photos of the mountains behind. Just beyond is a road leading to a popular swimming area in the spectacular Motatapu Gorge.

0kms – Take the road north along the shores of Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka. Makaroa is first - where the West Coast meets Central Otago at the southern end of the Alps. It has retained an element of pioneering spirit in its unhurried approach to life. Here you have time to try the very reasonably priced Siberia Experience – fly into the Mt Aspiring National Park, hike/tramp over the hill to the Siberia River and jet-boat back out. Wow!

Soon after you cross the summit of the Pass itself you can stretch your legs and wander down to Fantail Falls.

Next you come to the Gates of Haast, a gorge full of huge boulders and precipitous rock walls that caused major problems during the construction of the road in 1960 – up until then the Great Divide proved insurmountable to all except the Maori who used the trail for gathering greenstone.

104kms - The 28m Thunder Creek Falls a little further on are well worth the stop, best viewed along a short stroll on a loop-track.

129kms – Another waterfall where you can get out to stretch your legs. The Roaring Billy plunges down a mountain slope on the other side of the river – there is a short loop-track here as well.

157kms – Between Haast Junction and Haast Township look out for McGuire’s Lodge for a lunch option – try their whitebait omelet….a specialty of the region. The delicately flavoured whitebait are tiny fish that are caught by hand in huge nets. When they are “running” you can catch a kilo in an hour, but you have to have luck – hence the price.

From Haast the road skirts the coast where fur seals often doze amongst the spectacular sea stacks and driftwood. There is a viewpoint at Knight Point before the road heads inland again.

184kms – About 200m north of the Moeraki River bridge you can turn left to a car-park and well formed path that takes you through beautiful coastal forest to Munroe Beach, a typical deserted and wild West Coast beach where wildlife abounds. Watch out for the rare and beautiful Fiordland Crested Penguins fighting the crashing waves to land on the beach. 

217kms – Just north of the Paringa River you’ll find the Salmon Farm Café, either feed the salmon in the tanks below or eat one in the café…or just have a coffee.

274kms – New Zealand has many glaciers, however the two monoliths of Franz Joseph and Fox are our most famous. Both are advancing towards the sea at a rate of 1m per year, providing majestic scenery and ecological surprises as they advance. Car-parks and paths are constantly being destroyed.

Glacier walking on Fox Glacier is an amazing experience where you descend into crevices and ice-caves to witness the beautiful blue colour of the ice and hear the creaks of the living glacier. Follow your guide as he cuts steps into the ice as you advance over the surface of the glacier and moraines. The hike is fun and safe for all and no experience is necessary. The tour is also extremely informative - learn about the destruction to surrounding rock and rainforest caused when the glaciers advance.

23kms – Franz Joseph also has a glacier and is home to Fergs Kayaks where you can hire kayaks for exploring Lake Mapourika - a visually stunning kettle lake 15 kms north of here. The result of a period of past glaciations at the coastal section of the Franz Josef glacier valley, the lake is fringed with a wonderful example of temperate rainforest reputed to have clothed the earth during the Jurassic period. The climatic conditions are such that the kayaks glide on the water with a minimum of physical effort.

42kms – Here you have the choice of turning left to Okarito Lagoon, a bird watchers paradise with over 70 species visiting throughout the year, kayaks are also available for hire here. To see the rare White Heron breeding rookery continue north on SH6 to Whataroa and join a White Heron Sanctuary Tour by jet-boat to the colony (allow 3 hours). Departs 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm.

160kms - Hokitika is the best place to see the New Zealand Greenstone (jade) being made into ornaments and tiki (pendants). The stone was prized by the Maori, who called it pounamu and they went to great lengths to find and transport the precious stone. The stone was mainly used for making a lethal weapon that sat snugly in the hand of a warrior.

192kms – Just off SH6 you will find Shantytown, a faithful recreation of an 1880’s gold mining settlement. Here you can try your hand at gold-panning ($15 entry plus $5 extra for panning). Although quite commercial, it does provide an interesting insight into the lives of the prospectors. The whole coast in fact is steeped in history where small villages are all that remains of what were once bustling communities during the gold-boom years.

203kms – Greymouth is your destination this evening and, the end of your West Coast experience – I hope the weather was kind to you! Hand in the keys to your hire-car, as tomorrow you’re joining “The Great New Zealand Rail Adventure" across the Southern Alps to Christchurch.

The TranzAlpine journey is world renowned – sit back and enjoy this world-class scenic journey as it winds its way from the Tasman Sea up through lush beech forest , following rivers and skirting lakes as it ascends to the settlement of Arthur's Pass. The pass, built by pick and shovel and completed in 1866, is named after Arthur Dudley who discovered it in 1864. The track then winds its way over massive viaducts, through spectacular gorges and river valleys before crossing fertile patchwork farmlands of the Canterbury Plains to the city of Christchurch.

There is the opportunity to add extra days in Arthur's Pass. Alpine walks can be enjoyed from the village itself. Nearby is Flock Hill Station (free pickups from the train station) where many scenes for the "The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" were filmed. Tracks meander all over the farm which is littered with limestone formations and underground caves and across the valley is the stunning Castle Hill Reserve.

Routeburn Track - 3 days / 2 nights
The Routeburn has lured visitors for centuries. First were the Maori, in search of the treasures Greenstone (jade) and then the European settlers trying in vain to make a passable route to the wild West Coast. It begins high on the Milford Road into Fiordland National Park. You first tramp through lush beech forest to the alpine world of the Hollyford Face, cross the Harris Saddle to enter the Mount Aspiring National Park, then follow the Routeburn River down back into the forest experiencing a magic world of ferns, mosses, lichens and beech forests brimming with birds.

Milford Track  - 5 days / 4 nights
National Geographic declared this the "World's Greatest Walk". From the head of Lake Te Anau the track winds up the Clinton Valley, over MacKinnon Pass, where the whole world seems to be at your feet, then down the Arthur Valley to Milford Sound with stunning waterfalls and pristine mountain lakes along the way.

Hollyford Track - 5 days / 4 nights
The Hollyford River Valley is internationally recognized as a place of outstanding natural value and is situated within the Fiordland National Park. Step back in time and experience spectacular geology, intriguing ecology and fascinating history of human endeavor. The track takes you from the heart of the Southern Alps to its western boundary on the Tasman Sea. Unlike any other walk, the scenery is ever changing - snowcapped mountains and glaciers to rainforests, rivers, lakes, waterfalls and sand dunes.

Queen Charlotte Track – 4 days / 3 nights                                                                                                        Coastal walk in the Marlborough Sounds in and out of coves and lush bush. Lodges and B+Bs are all along the track, where you can take advantage of their restaurants, accommodations and water taxis to transport your pack. This is a place where the passing traffic is likely to be a pod of orcas on their way south for their summer holiday, or dolphins leaping with joy. Noise here is not the sound of cars going past or the neighbours squabbling, but the sound of bellbirds and tuis singing and the smells are of fresh salt air mixed with the odour of the bush. This is New Zealand at her very best.

Banks Peninsula – 4 day / 3 nights                                                                                                                       An easy 30km guided 4 day hike staying on farms and B+Bs. Personal gear transported for you.  Wonderful views of the rugged peninsula, Christchurch, Akaroa and the Pacific Ocean.

Kepler Track – 4 day / 3 nights                                                                                                                             This is a mountainous 3-4 day tramp on a 67kms circular track in the uninhabited southwestern part of the South Island, departing from Te Anau. Highest point is 1270 metres, with views of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri. Harder than Milford or Routeburn tracks, appropriate mountain clothing required as the weather can be unpredictable even in summer.

Abel Tasman Coastal Walkway – 3 or 5 days, can be combined with kayaking.                                        This coast of coves and bays has been called the easiest hike in NZ, with the highest point only 150 metres. Overnight in charming B+Bs. Personal gear transported for you to your next nights accommodation by water-taxi, so you only need to carry your lunch, water and clothes for the day. Very popular so at times VERY crowded.

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